Riptide III
3D
- Dec 8, 2007
- 1,139
- Boat Info
- 1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
- Engines
- :
Am I missing something obvious?And then the fight started...
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Am I missing something obvious?And then the fight started...
YepAm I missing something obvious?
I did exactly this last winter. You have to remove the panel on the top of the dash to access the tracks. I dug the colored caulk out first then used a windshield removing tool, basically small braided cable to cut through the caulk it was bedded in. It wasn't all that easy to get free. The tracks were screwed in along the middle of their length, probably 6 per side. Push the door in and you should see an 1 or 2. I would recommend doing the rollers as well since you already have it apart. They tend to stop turning and get flat spots.If this has already been addressed please direct me to the post, I was not able to find anything.
The tracks for the sliding entry door to my cabin on the 410 Sundancer are broken and worn. I found the tracks online. Has anyone posted a guide on how to remove the door and replace the tracks? It looks like you might remove the vinyl door trim and ceiling panels to gain access but I dont see any screws and do not want to start pulling without having a clue. Any guidance is appreciated.
Yes I saw that. Thought that was too obvious. We have had that discussion several times. New England is slow to catch on to that. Take a walk around the the local boat yards here. Thought there was something else.Yep
Which goes first.. Big or little....
On my 1998 the speakers are mounted in that vinyl piece. Speaker has to be removed and there are studs with nuts inside, 2 if I recall correctly. Tight fit, need a skinny arm.
OK - how in the world did someone put the cotter pin through the shaft the wrong way.And then the fight started...
I cut the old tracks far back as I could, just getting under the dash panel. Put a screw in to hold in place and spliced in the new track, also held with screw at splice. Works fine after several years and is not noticeable.If this has already been addressed please direct me to the post, I was not able to find anything.
The tracks for the sliding entry door to my cabin on the 410 Sundancer are broken and worn. I found the tracks online. Has anyone posted a guide on how to remove the door and replace the tracks? It looks like you might remove the vinyl door trim and ceiling panels to gain access but I dont see any screws and do not want to start pulling without having a clue. Any guidance is appreciated.
Can you post a picture? I replaced the rollers on my cabin door last year and it was a simple job, but I dont know whether the tracks in my 98 400 are the same as in your 410.
On my 400 you can see the screws in the tracks, pull the screws and the tracks come out easily to expose the wheels, which are what needed replacement.
This was one of the easiest and most satisfying repairs I've done on my boat. If your cabin slider is hinky at all, I recommend it.
Thank you. I like this idea vs removing that top hatch cover.I cut the old tracks far back as I could, just getting under the dash panel. Put a screw in to hold in place and spliced in the new track, also held with screw at splice. Works fine after several years and is not noticeable.
Marty
Thank you. Is caulking the only thing holding that top dash panel in? I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove that, I really suck with a caulking gun.I did exactly this last winter. You have to remove the panel on the top of the dash to access the tracks. I dug the colored caulk out first then used a windshield removing tool, basically small braided cable to cut through the caulk it was bedded in. It wasn't all that easy to get free. The tracks were screwed in along the middle of their length, probably 6 per side. Push the door in and you should see an 1 or 2. I would recommend doing the rollers as well since you already have it apart. They tend to stop turning and get flat spots.
Ah, the difference on my 400 is that I don't have that cover piece - the hatch and the tracks are exposed. A much easier job.Here is a picture of my door and tracks'
I did exactly this last winter. You have to remove the panel on the top of the dash to access the tracks. I dug the colored caulk out first then used a windshield removing tool, basically small braided cable to cut through the caulk it was bedded in. It wasn't all that easy to get free. The tracks were screwed in along the middle of their length, probably 6 per side. Push the door in and you should see an 1 or 2. I would recommend doing the rollers as well since you already have it apart. They tend to stop turning and get flat spots.
Guys, help me out here. I replaced my forward AC with a MarineAire 12k btu unit and I can hang meat in the summer with my cabin door open. A dockmate has a 410 and is saying the biggest unit he can put in is a 7K btu? What should I recommend to him to put in, he really wanted the 12k btu with gauges like mine but is saying he only has about 15"'s of space in the compartment under the bed... Is that right?
Thanks! I just put in the same btu's that I took out and had the room, fairly easy project on my boat and has worked great for several seasons, but I hear you, I can cool it down quickly even in the summer.I seem to think we're supposed to have 7k up front and 12k in the galley.
12k up front? I'd turn off my fridge and use the closets instead