410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Now that I have healthy engines and put a few miles on I want to see how I compare to you other diesel guys. What do you all see for speed at various RPM? In a mild sea I ran the following, half water and full fuel. This was also cruise mode, so lots of food and clothes and stuff. I had the props cut to make 2850 over the winter not knowing I needed new turbos

2150: 20mph
2250: 21.7 mph
2288:23.1mph

I feel like it might be a hair slow, it’s going to be calm tomorrow so I’m going to run again and see what those speeds are
I am typically about 25.5 mph at 2400 rpms in 1 -2 foot waves or so, half tanks and a few people in board and a full water tank. I dont run at WOT very often but the last time I did I was just touching 30 mph if I played with the trim. All fresh water figures. I typically cruise at 2400 because that is the sweet spot for fuel efficiency.
 
Now that I have healthy engines and put a few miles on I want to see how I compare to you other diesel guys. What do you all see for speed at various RPM? In a mild sea I ran the following, half water and full fuel. This was also cruise mode, so lots of food and clothes and stuff. I had the props cut to make 2850 over the winter not knowing I needed new turbos

2150: 20mph
2250: 21.7 mph
2288:23.1mph

I feel like it might be a hair slow, it’s going to be calm tomorrow so I’m going to run again and see what those speeds are


400 so a little different but I’m usually 2250 - 24-25 mph. 2400 usually only yields a about 26ish. At 2250 it feels like the boat is barely working. I’m still shy a little on the port engine but starboard makes 2860+ which is about 32 mph. I’m usually pretty heavy with a dinghy on the back and I keep full tanks when practical.
Pics or it didn’t happen.
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Thanks all. And yes, compared to my 290 is is slow but the ride is at least half the fun so I’m good with it.

Something I find really interesting is the prop slip calculations on this boat. At cruise I come out somewhere in the 14-19% range - WOT slip drops to 10% (32mph at 2860). I wonder if the extra stern lift and better shaft attack angle at higher revs is helping the prop bite a little better, or maybe it’s just an inboard thing. My last IO boat was a constant slip calculation regardless of speed
 
My system display does not work. All I have is my constant scan of the gauges to tell me of an overheat or low oil pressure. I understand the basics of psi switch (on/off) vs sender (resistance). I’m assuming there are both on our boats. If that is the case does the wire go all the way up to the system monitor at the helm? If that is the case I should be able to cut that wire and hook it up to a buzzer. I know I’m oversimplifying this but I just wanna know if my train of thought makes sense. Can anyone shed light on the wiring.
 
Thanks all. And yes, compared to my 290 is is slow but the ride is at least half the fun so I’m good with it.

Something I find really interesting is the prop slip calculations on this boat. At cruise I come out somewhere in the 14-19% range - WOT slip drops to 10% (32mph at 2860). I wonder if the extra stern lift and better shaft attack angle at higher revs is helping the prop bite a little better, or maybe it’s just an inboard thing. My last IO boat was a constant slip calculation regardless of speed

Sorry wasn't saying your boat is slow, just that 25 mph is slow, haha but I don't have to worry about spilling my beer and my hat blowing off. :)
 
My system display does not work. All I have is my constant scan of the gauges to tell me of an overheat or low oil pressure. I understand the basics of psi switch (on/off) vs sender (resistance). I’m assuming there are both on our boats. If that is the case does the wire go all the way up to the system monitor at the helm? If that is the case I should be able to cut that wire and hook it up to a buzzer. I know I’m oversimplifying this but I just wanna know if my train of thought makes sense. Can anyone shed light on the wiring.

I would imagine a wire would come off the oil pressure gauge to the alarm panel, or split somewhere along the way. I have only noticed one wire off the oil pressure sending unit. I'm sure there are schematics out there.
 
I too have only seen one wire. I’m wondering if that wire goes from the sender into the gauge then a “mystery box” at the helm that is able to say “oil psi is below x/sound light and alarm”. I think this because there seems to be an absence of a psi “switch” on the engine. Really don’t feel like opening up the helm again until I have possible solution would help.
 
Sorry wasn't saying your boat is slow, just that 25 mph is slow, haha but I don't have to worry about spilling my beer and my hat blowing off. :)

oh it’s slow, no offense taken

I ran 2400 today in relatively calm seas - 25.5mph with full tab, 1/4 water, 3/4 fuel, and a bunch of stuff.

boat is actually faster with full tab than without which is interesting. I think I’m content with where it’s all dialed in now
 
oh it’s slow, no offense taken

I ran 2400 today in relatively calm seas - 25.5mph with full tab, 1/4 water, 3/4 fuel, and a bunch of stuff.

boat is actually faster with full tab than without which is interesting. I think I’m content with where it’s all dialed in now

Mine runs better at close to full tab as well. My guess is less stern in the water helps. Prob why tunnel tabs are a great idea. I bet at full throttle as the boat planes out some more, you will see faster speeds with less tab.
 
I run full taps down all the time. Full fuel full water 2 people. Lots of stuff, cooler etc. 2350 rpm gets me 22.5 knots 25.90 mph, slack tide. 3116’s 350hp.
Love a straight drive boat.
 
Thats pretty much what I get. At WOT (2850) I get approx 24kts (27-28 mph).
Same speeds for my but wot 2800 I get 31 mph I cruise at 2300 23 mph Love this speed
If wanted 40 knot cruise we had that option but affordability comes in play real fast

love our 410 more than any boat we own
 
I too have only seen one wire. I’m wondering if that wire goes from the sender into the gauge then a “mystery box” at the helm that is able to say “oil psi is below x/sound light and alarm”. I think this because there seems to be an absence of a psi “switch” on the engine. Really don’t feel like opening up the helm again until I have possible solution would help.
So bad news, it is not just a single wire to the mystery box it is way more than just that. I also have issues with my interface module that is down in the engine room. It works great when it is cool but as soon as it gets hot it goes off line

upload_2021-7-12_19-25-14.png
 
So bad news, it is not just a single wire to the mystery box it is way more than just that. I also have issues with my interface module that is down in the engine room. It works great when it is cool but as soon as it gets hot it goes off line

View attachment 108620


The actual switches are commercially available temp/pressure switches and are hardwired back to the interface module. There are 10-12 of them on a 410 (not all alarms are wired, but its easy to add thing you would like like transmission low pressure or high temp). There is a standard coax cable from the interface module to the indicator panel. I would suspect a bad connection on the coax, or water/moisture in the connection. Possible, the board on either end is shot.

If you wish to replace it, its a DIY project and not too much more expensive that the replacements parts if you can find them. Here's the write up on how. --> http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...nd-improve-the-sea-ray-systems-monitor.91270/ Its for a 52 Sedan bridge, but the concept is the same and pretty easy to adapt.

If you look in you electrical schematic, you will see what is and isn't wired. I can vouch that Maretron is great stuff...I own several DSM 410s and senders/module.
 
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The actual switches are commercially available temp/pressure switches and are hardwired back to the interface module. There are 10-12 of them on a 410 (not all alarms are wired, but its easy to add thing you would like like transmission low pressure or high temp). There is a standard coax cable from the interface module to the indicator panel. I would suspect a bad connection on the coax, or water/moisture in the connection. Possible, the board on either end is shot.

If you wish to replace it, its a DIY project and not too much more expensive that the replacements parts if you can find them. Here's the write up on how. --> http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...nd-improve-the-sea-ray-systems-monitor.91270/ Its for a 52 Sedan bridge, but the concept is the same and pretty easy to adapt.

If you look in you electrical schematic, you will see what is and isn't wired. I can vouch that Maretron is great stuff...I own several DSM 410s and senders/module.

i know you did trans pressure, did you also do temp? I’d like to add those this winter and put them on the N2K network if possible
 
The actual switches are commercially available temp/pressure switches and are hardwired back to the interface module. There are 10-12 of them on a 410 (not all alarms are wired, but its easy to add thing you would like like transmission low pressure or high temp). There is a standard coax cable from the interface module to the indicator panel. I would suspect a bad connection on the coax, or water/moisture in the connection. Possible, the board on either end is shot.

If you wish to replace it, its a DIY project and not too much more expensive that the replacements parts if you can find them. Here's the write up on how. --> http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...nd-improve-the-sea-ray-systems-monitor.91270/ Its for a 52 Sedan bridge, but the concept is the same and pretty easy to adapt.

If you look in you electrical schematic, you will see what is and isn't wired. I can vouch that Maretron is great stuff...I own several DSM 410s and senders/module.
This will be my winter project!
 
Anyone replace their Salon Cruisair a/c? If so what did you get? is it a DIY job? Thanks
 

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