410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

I appreciate the offer, but I now have extras for the tranny cooler since replacing the cooler this year.

Carter Chapman turned me onto https://performancemetals.com/. They are super nice and easy to deal with. You might want to try a set. They claim longer life, better protection and reduced scale buildup. Aluminum can be used in all water salt brackish and fresh, so a good choice for those that go between all 3.
 
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also...for the aftercoolers...this might prevent a lost anode

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Interesting.......
My only thought on them is when they snap and get stuck in the hole I usually use a left handed bit and an easy out to get them out. That steel core would be a problem.
BTW: the alternator I ordered online came the other day. Had to reuse my pulley. But other than the white paint on the old one I couldn’t tell the difference between the $151 replacement and the original I took out. Even has the same casting marks in the housing halves. Painted the new one white, popped it in and it's working perfectly.
 
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JVM225 said:
Interesting.......
My only thought on them is when they snap and get stuck in the hole I usually use a left handed bit and an easy out to get them out. That steel core would be a problem.
BTW: the alternator I ordered online came the other day. Had to reuse my pulley. But other than the white paint on the old one I couldn’t tell the difference between the $151 replacement and the original I took out. Even has the same casting marks in the housing halves. Painted the new one white, popped it in and it's working perfectly.
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Hmmm...more engine parts!!
 
Who has the corrosion knowledge on these aluminum secure core anodes? I was not aware that aluminum corrode like zinc sacrificial anodes. Anyone? Anyone?
 
Did a little research. Sounds like zinc is a much better sacrificial metal for recreational weekend boating - see below writeup:

“There comes a time and place where no other material beats zinc as a sacrificial anode – when it is docked or anchored in seawater for a long period of time.

Zinc anodes consume metal, or “slough”, much better than aluminum. Without this improved ability to slough, the consumed metal in aluminum anodes can film over and form a crust/barrier which will passify the anode. This gives the zinc anode a welcomed advantage over the aluminum anode.

The longer the vessel sits, the higher the chance of anode passivation, which occurs more often in aluminum. When a vessel is underway, the moving water current creates electrical current which puts a demand on anodes, thereby reactivating them. Cutting through the water also cleans the oxide film off of the anode.

If a vessel remains active in saltwater on a regular basis, both zinc and aluminum anodes will work. If sitting for periods of time in saltwater, zinc is the way to go.”
 
Keep in mind these are an aluminum alloy made for being anodes, not strait aluminum.

I use as I’m in fresh water, but they have information on the website addressing these issues, and also the situation where the boat is on a lift/out if the water and the anodes might dry out. Certainly an alternative.
 
Looking to add a Raymarine Quantum 2 radar, and planning to use a Seaview modular mount.

Need to order a wedge to get the right angle when the boat is up on plane. anybody know the approximate run angle of the 410DA, or what wedge to order?
 
dtfeld said:
Looking to add a Raymarine Quantum 2 radar, and planning to use a Seaview modular mount.

Need to order a wedge to get the right angle when the boat is up on plane. anybody know the approximate run angle of the 410DA, or what wedge to order?
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David - recommend you take two measurements - one at maneuvering speed and one at cruise and split the difference for the mid angle. This way your radar's antenna gain is best useable in all running situations. Take the two running measurements on the cockpit deck and determine the mid angle. Then take another measurement at rest on the same location on the cockpit deck and then the measurement where the radar is to be mounted and that difference plus or minus (depending if the arch is leaning back or forward) the running mid angle is what the wedge needs to be. If I remember correctly I had the wedges made to 6 degrees forward lean on my old 400DA but that's been a while ago. Tom
 
Thanks Tom!

I think I have an inclinometer on my phone. That should make quick work out fo the measurements.
 
Dani-Lu said:
Did a little research. Sounds like zinc is a much better sacrificial metal for recreational weekend boating - see below writeup:

“There comes a time and place where no other material beats zinc as a sacrificial anode – when it is docked or anchored in seawater for a long period of time.

Zinc anodes consume metal, or “slough”, much better than aluminum. Without this improved ability to slough, the consumed metal in aluminum anodes can film over and form a crust/barrier which will passify the anode. This gives the zinc anode a welcomed advantage over the aluminum anode.

The longer the vessel sits, the higher the chance of anode passivation, which occurs more often in aluminum. When a vessel is underway, the moving water current creates electrical current which puts a demand on anodes, thereby reactivating them. Cutting through the water also cleans the oxide film off of the anode.

If a vessel remains active in saltwater on a regular basis, both zinc and aluminum anodes will work. If sitting for periods of time in saltwater, zinc is the way to go.”
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Not in fresh water - zinc gets a coating on it and becomes ineffective. FW needs Mg or AL....
 
Pairadocs said:
Anyone have any opinion on using a 9H carbon ceramic coating on your boat? Seems like a good option for longer term maintenance.
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Ceramics seem to have some believers. I'm not one of them but I've only ever given it one try. And I'm not a pro.

If the compound you're looking at promises twice the shine, twice the longevity and half the work....save your money and spend it on beer. Better investment :)
 
jzizler said:
I'm in the process of replacing my cockpit icemaker with a fridge. The only model I've found thus far other than u-line is a Novakool 1200r. Does anyone know of any other options for a fridge? Thanks.
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I'd be interested to hear how you make out with this project. I have an icemaker that has started to make some noise. I'm contemplating a fridge swap out while the wife is not looking (she prefers the ice maker)...
 
Dani-Lu said:
Agree, I should have made clear I am discussing salt water zincs.
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If in salt water (not on a lift or anything where the anodes might dry out), zinc is a great alternative. The only issue I found was that the CAT anodes are not readily available at the local stores or at least it was hit or miss in the Tampa area when I was there. I still have a couple bags of zinc anodes that were close but no cigar. So you end up having to mail order them.

I didn't stay in salt water long enough, but I would be interested to know if the Navalloy anodes are easier to maintain especially in the aftercooler, as the zincs deteriorated so fast and were a serious PITA to get out.
 
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Stee6043 said:
Ceramics seem to have some believers. I'm not one of them but I've only ever given it one try. And I'm not a pro.

If the compound you're looking at promises twice the shine, twice the longevity and half the work....save your money and spend it on beer. Better investment :)
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Thanks. I don't believe in one time miracles. Any specifics to support your opinion. I appreciate your input.
 
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