40 sedan bridge forum

PMC said:
Bill - when I re sealed the underwater exhaust elbow, I removed only the genny exhaust hose & battery. I worked from the elbow first, forward up to the muffler. It all came apart wit some grunt. Good luck on the shower head to muffler hose. That looks problematic to me.
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It looks like it is problematic. Fortunately I am only replacing the narrow exhaust hose that runs from the muffler and back and out the side of the boat. Its the one hanging from the zip ties in the picture.
 
ANCHOR RODE QUESTION...

I'm not on the boat and need to know what the standard anchor rode length that came from Sea Ray for a 2001 400DB. We rarely anchor in anything more than 20 feet of water and I may need to anchor in 40-50' of water. Not sure how much rode came with the boat, I've never measured it.

Any thoughts?
 
truk911 said:
ANCHOR RODE QUESTION...

I'm not on the boat and need to know what the standard anchor rode length that came from Sea Ray for a 2001 400DB. We rarely anchor in anything more than 20 feet of water and I may need to anchor in 40-50' of water. Not sure how much rode came with the boat, I've never measured it.

Any thoughts?
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I'm pretty sure I have 200' with 30' chain. Most of our anchoring is shallow, so it is not too big of a problem.....being short. I wouldn't sleep well in 50' water.
 
Thanks Paul!

We're not anchoring overnight, we're just anchoring for a several hours as a Committee Boat for a Sailboat Race, I don't know if we will be in 30' or 50' of water so I'm just trying to to have an idea as to how much rode we have since I won't have time to measure it before we head out to the event.
 
If anyone needs to plug their side engine exhaust, a regular size swim noodle fits in their nice and snug. I know it's above the waterline but I didn't want any water splashing in while the exhaust hose was removed.
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PMC said:
I'm pretty sure I have 200' with 30' chain. Most of our anchoring is shallow, so it is not too big of a problem.....being short. I wouldn't sleep well in 50' water.
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Just about dead on Paul. According to the parts manual it's 25' of 5/16" chain and 200' of 5/8" line.
 
I have successfully removed the long 3" wire wrapped exhaust hose. It took me a while to figure out (by trial and error) an approach that worked. But once I did the hose came off in short order. Here is the process I used in case anyone ever needs to try this:

1. Cut out the center of the hose to turn the removal into two shorter pieces on each end (reciprocating saw or utility knife to cut rubber and side cutters for the wire)
2. Break the seal at the end of a hose by working a flathead screwdriver between the hose and the tube. No need to work it free all the way around, but you can if you want.
3. Use a oil filter wrench and turn the hose to break it free of its seal
4. Spray some PB Blaster (that is what I used) or WD-40 or equivalent into the end of the hose and let it wick in for a while (couple hours or so)
5. Use the oil filter wrench and turn the hose back and forth (or around in circles if you can) and pull as you turn until the hose comes off
6. Repeat 2-5 for the other end of the hose

Step 5 actually went very quickly. I'll spare you the full day of stuff I tried that didn't work.
 
NaughtyDog said:
Has anyone changed or been able to service their holding tank sensors on their 400DB? I understand you have to access the top of the tank. Is this possible with the port exhaust 'tubes' in place? Would this be a in water or out of water job?


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Just to update my previous post in case anyone was holding their breath waiting for an answer other than myself but that turned out to be for a different reason...yea the holding tank sensor can be accessed without removing the port exhaust tube. It was a difficult reach but after releasing the zap straps holding the sensor wires, I was able to unscrew the top by hand and CAREFULLY remove the top and sensors. I was quite surprised that after 15 years of abuse and a good thorough cleaning, all three of my sensors were in great shape and functioning, just severely bound up with hair and other "crap" (BTW how does hair get in the holding tank???). Carefully replaced the sensors and cap, cleaned up the mess, flushed the tank a few more times, showered twice, and all seems to be working fine again. Not a job for the weak stomached though I might add...


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On my 2001 400DB the Raymarine 48" Open Array radar has been flexing and while removing the fly bridge enclosure we discovered an approximate 24" crack along the forward edge of the radar fiberglass arch just forward of the Radar Mast.

Here is a video of the crack:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m0qrk4rwxi...03837.mp4?dl=0

Anyone ever see this before? Any suggestions on how to repair this?

Any thoughts are appreciated!
 
truk911 said:
On my 2001 400DB the Raymarine 48" Open Array radar has been flexing and while removing the fly bridge enclosure we discovered an approximate 24" crack along the forward edge of the radar fiberglass arch just forward of the Radar Mast.

Here is a video of the crack:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m0qrk4rwxi...03837.mp4?dl=0

Anyone ever see this before? Any suggestions on how to repair this?

Any thoughts are appreciated!
Click to expand...

I'd run this question out in its own thread, and contact Sea Ray. I have seen a bit of deflection in the arch itself (side to side) while running and I question if an open array is just too heave for this setup.
 
I have not seen it before, any chance that the canvas being attached to it adds stress when underway or in bad wind storms?
 
PMC said:
I'd run this question out in its own thread, and contact Sea Ray. I have seen a bit of deflection in the arch itself (side to side) while running and I question if an open array is just too heave for this setup.
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Thanks Paul! I have run a separate thread which I started yesterday and many views, but no responses so far.

The open array has been on the boat since 2001. I guess I can start to look for a closed array or upgrade to new electronics after I get these repairs made. The open array weights over 70#'s, not sure how much the closed array 24" would weigh, but I assume much less.
 
Mark - Thanks for the comment. I don't think it adds any stress to the arch since the canvas is supported by the rails of the enclosure. I've contacted Sea Ray via e-mail and will wait a couple days for a response before I give them a call.
 
truk911 said:
On my 2001 400DB the Raymarine 48" Open Array radar has been flexing and while removing the fly bridge enclosure we discovered an approximate 24" crack along the forward edge of the radar fiberglass arch just forward of the Radar Mast.

Here is a video of the crack:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m0qrk4rwxi...03837.mp4?dl=0

Anyone ever see this before? Any suggestions on how to repair this?

Any thoughts are appreciated!
Click to expand...

Not sure when Searay may have changed the arch to fiberglass but my 1998 has an aluminum radar arch. I can't believe the stress of the canvas would have anything to do with it...
 
NaughtyDog said:
Just to update my previous post in case anyone was holding their breath waiting for an answer other than myself but that turned out to be for a different reason...yea the holding tank sensor can be accessed without removing the port exhaust tube. It was a difficult reach but after releasing the zap straps holding the sensor wires, I was able to unscrew the top by hand and CAREFULLY remove the top and sensors. I was quite surprised that after 15 years of abuse and a good thorough cleaning, all three of my sensors were in great shape and functioning, just severely bound up with hair and other "crap" (BTW how does hair get in the holding tank???). Carefully replaced the sensors and cap, cleaned up the mess, flushed the tank a few more times, showered twice, and all seems to be working fine again. Not a job for the weak stomached though I might add...


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Click to expand...

Thanks for the update on this. Do you know what the 3 sensors are for? 2 heads and ???? How did you know you had bad/gunked up sensors? I wonder if I do too? My green light is on by each toilet, but I've never seen it get to 1/2 or full - but I get pumped out weekly, so I just thought it never got that high.
 
cwiert said:
Thanks for the update on this. Do you know what the 3 sensors are for? 2 heads and ???? How did you know you had bad/gunked up sensors? I wonder if I do too? My green light is on by each toilet, but I've never seen it get to 1/2 or full - but I get pumped out weekly, so I just thought it never got that high.
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The three sensors are to measure different levels in the tank (empty, 1/2, & full) and relay the readings to both heads and the main panel. I didn't know before "diving in" whether they were gunked up or defunct. I was pretty relieved that they operated properly once I got them cleaned up. Easy enough to test while they were out of the tank. I left them hooked up and turned on the head system then had the admiral check the panel as I moved the floats. If you remove the floats (they are held on by a small plastic C-clip) make sure you put them back on the right way up or they won't read properly. I think there is a small magnet in the float. Also the bottom/longest sensor for the "Empty" indicator goes on the opposite way then the other two. Read that on CSR somewhere and it was helpful. Flush the tank a few times before you tackle the job. Good luck.


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So after replacing the long exhaust hose because it appeared to leak at the outlet fitting, I have finally found it was not leaking. There is a cockpit floor drain above it that was compromised. Water was forced in through its broken seal when on plane, and running down onto the exhaust hose. This drip of epoxy from the factory install was the core problem. It pushed the flange of the thru hull about 1/16-1/8 away from being flush to the hull. When they tightened the thruhull nut it cracked the flange at that spot. Water and exhaust gases worked their way in through there over the life of the boat. The exhaust hose fitting never leaked at all.
7434c4bbad4ed341ef6742dcc0b124f8.jpg
 
At a raft-up over the weekend my new neighbor was attempting to fire up his portable generator... I offered to let him plug in to our boat so he could have AC. I plugged into the 120v outlet in the cockpit compartment on the port side with the battery switches. The outlet, which was working prior to this, stopped working. I checked the breaker on the electrical panel, breaker above the battery switches and the GFCI in the cabinet in the galley with no luck. Do you guys know of another GFCI outlet or breaker that this outlet is on? Thank you.

As an aside, it was not a Honda portable generator, would not start and he left.
 
trebbel said:
At a raft-up over the weekend my new neighbor was attempting to fire up his portable generator... I offered to let him plug in to our boat so he could have AC. I plugged into the 120v outlet in the cockpit compartment on the port side with the battery switches. The outlet, which was working prior to this, stopped working. I checked the breaker on the electrical panel, breaker above the battery switches and the GFCI in the cabinet in the galley with no luck. Do you guys know of another GFCI outlet or breaker that this outlet is on? Thank you.

As an aside, it was not a Honda portable generator, would not start and he left.
Click to expand...

Try the GFC in the port head, let me know


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