40 sedan bridge forum

Interesting, I never get water there on the starboard side . Next time on board I’ll have a look at that notch
I finally got to checking the almost secret notches in the cockpit during a spectacular rain storm. The good news is I now know where water has been intruding on the port side, it is indeed the notch . Starboard no water. Did annyone ever work out if the notch was indeed an overflow from the drain that runs from the vents to the ER .
 
I finally got to checking the almost secret notches in the cockpit during a spectacular rain storm. The good news is I now know where water has been intruding on the port side, it is indeed the notch . Starboard no water. Did annyone ever work out if the notch was indeed an overflow from the drain that runs from the vents to the ER .
I have been looking at the same thing for a awhile now, going to pull fridge out from under stair and crawl back to see if there is any other drains inside.

Would love to keep the water out.

Jamie
 
Hi can anyone give me the measurements on the bridge stock table looking to replace it with a new one my boat all wrapped up thank you and happy new year
 
Where is this notch?? Any pics?
I dont have a fridge under the steps though she is plumbed and wired for one. I dont recall seeing any drains but was never looking for one.
 
One wonders how many people have filled them up with sealer and have water backing up somewhere
 
If this makes things any easier I cut an access hole over my starboard alternator under the soffa it made changing that alternator a piece of cake when I was through. I made a access cover for the hole I had made for future repairs. It made it easy to reach my zinc on my heat exchanger as well.
WHICH ZINC ANODES DOES MY 1999 SEA RAY 400 SEDAN BRIDGE HAVE INSIDE AND OUT.
I HAVE CAT 3116 DIESEL.
 
Hi everyone Happy New Year Has anyone remove the lazy susan from under the sink for more room. we are planning to do the Great Loop this year need all the room we can get
 
Hi can anyone give me the measurements on the bridge stock table looking to replace it with a new one my boat all wrapped up thank you and happy new year
Roger, did anyone ever get this for you? Mine is in my attic. Be happy to crawl up there and get dimensions for you. We moved our salon table up there instead. Much easier to maneuver around.
 
Anyone ever replaced a shaft coupler on 7.4 gas motors? Need a part number. Chasing a vibration, and literally everything else has been replaced, aligned, or verified for true. (Or at least has supposed to have been.). Can’t imagine that they wear out, but for the $125 or so that they cost, I figure it’s worth a shot to try.
 
Anyone ever replaced a shaft coupler on 7.4 gas motors? Need a part number. Chasing a vibration, and literally everything else has been replaced, aligned, or verified for true. (Or at least has supposed to have been.). Can’t imagine that they wear out, but for the $125 or so that they cost, I figure it’s worth a shot to try.
It's pretty rare to see bent or deformed couplers.
Why not run out the gear side coupler face with a dial indicator - if that TIR is less than 0.001" then the gear coupler isn't the issue.
Then measure the gap between the coupler halves put together loosely without the shaft. If that gap is zero then the shaft coupler to gear coupler fit-up isn't the issue.
Then put the shaft back together with it's coupler and loosely mate the couplers. Measure the gap between the couplers. If at any point around the circumference a differential gap is greater than 0.003" then either the shaft is bent or engine out of alignment.
Rotate the shaft 180 degrees and retake the gap measurements around the circumference. If any gap seen in the first measurement moved 180 degrees then it's a bent shaft. If the gap remained in the same place then engine is out of alignment.
If all the above is in spec then completely reassemble and put the dial indicator on the shaft right next to the coupler. If that runout is less than 0.001" then that is OK. If greater either the shaft taper is incorrect, the key/keyway is interfering with fitup, or the coupler bore / taper isn't aligned. Lap the shaft/bore reassemble and check again.
If everything around the coupler assembly is within spec then put the dial indicator on the shaft right next to the log seal. If that measurement TIR is 0.005" or greater then the shaft is bent. Usually the seal there will leak when running if the shaft is significantly bent.
Most vibrations are from:
Imbalanced / bent propeller
Bent prop shaft
Worn cutlass bearing
Shaft mis-alignment
 
Hi everyone Happy New Year Has anyone remove the lazy susan from under the sink for more room. we are planning to do the Great Loop this year need all the room we can get
That’s one I haven’t done. Have you taken out the coffee maker? Several of us here have done that to get more storage.
 
It's pretty rare to see bent or deformed couplers.
Why not run out the gear side coupler face with a dial indicator - if that TIR is less than 0.001" then the gear coupler isn't the issue.
Then measure the gap between the coupler halves put together loosely without the shaft. If that gap is zero then the shaft coupler to gear coupler fit-up isn't the issue.
Then put the shaft back together with it's coupler and loosely mate the couplers. Measure the gap between the couplers. If at any point around the circumference a differential gap is greater than 0.003" then either the shaft is bent or engine out of alignment.
Rotate the shaft 180 degrees and retake the gap measurements around the circumference. If any gap seen in the first measurement moved 180 degrees then it's a bent shaft. If the gap remained in the same place then engine is out of alignment.
If all the above is in spec then completely reassemble and put the dial indicator on the shaft right next to the coupler. If that runout is less than 0.001" then that is OK. If greater either the shaft taper is incorrect, the key/keyway is interfering with fitup, or the coupler bore / taper isn't aligned. Lap the shaft/bore reassemble and check again.
If everything around the coupler assembly is within spec then put the dial indicator on the shaft right next to the log seal. If that measurement TIR is 0.005" or greater then the shaft is bent. Usually the seal there will leak when running if the shaft is significantly bent.
Most vibrations are from:
Imbalanced / bent propeller
Bent prop shaft
Worn cutlass bearing
Shaft mis-alignment
Wow, what an excellent write up. Thank you! I saved this in a Word doc and dropped it in my "boat" folder. I can't imagine that the coupler is bad either. I pulled the shaft and had it checked at a machine shop that specializes in machinery shaft straightening. It was at 5/1000's which I think is in spec. They got it down to 1.5/1000's. Props are re-conditioned and run up to 3000 r.p.m. on a balancer and shown to be true. Rotating the shaft by hand with a dial on it which should take the prop out of the equation, it's out 25/1000's Cutlass bearings are new this past spring. It's got to be an alignment issue.
 
Wow, what an excellent write up. Thank you! I saved this in a Word doc and dropped it in my "boat" folder. I can't imagine that the coupler is bad either. I pulled the shaft and had it checked at a machine shop that specializes in machinery shaft straightening. It was at 5/1000's which I think is in spec. They got it down to 1.5/1000's. Props are re-conditioned and run up to 3000 r.p.m. on a balancer and shown to be true. Rotating the shaft by hand with a dial on it which should take the prop out of the equation, it's out 25/1000's Cutlass bearings are new this past spring. It's got to be an alignment issue.
That has all of the indication of the engine/gear being out of alignment. Since you have a DB then the rear of the engine/gear gets set to center the shaft in the log then front of the engine to align engine/gear/shaft. That is verified using feeler gauges between the coupler halves. To do this right the coupler must be free of corrosion, grime, and burrs between the mating halves.
 
That has all of the indication of the engine/gear being out of alignment. Since you have a DB then the rear of the engine/gear gets set to center the shaft in the log then front of the engine to align engine/gear/shaft. That is verified using feeler gauges between the coupler halves. To do this right the coupler must be free of corrosion, grime, and burrs between the mating halves.
It is. It's a freshwater boat. There's not a spec of corrosion or rust anywhere. I replaced my original 25 year old zincs last spring just because the boat was out anyway, and they were still in great shape!
 

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Hi zz13 we just took out the coffee maker. looked yesterday the box next to the draws is open space. letting the first mate decide what she wants
 
With the crazy weather this week, Oklahoma will be hovering in single digits for the next few days and not get over around 20. It's usually in short burst like that around here, so we don't haul out. It will probably be 65 next week. Had an extra camera laying around the house, so ran up to the boat and installed it in my engine room today just because. It's plugged into the outlet under the cockpit stairs where the icemaker used to be. I have two others full-time outside on the dock looking at my boat from the stern, and my patio deck area and golf cart the other direction. Nice to watch the battery charger lights, the rear bilge, and to listen for my bilge heaters kicking on and off like they're supposed to. I still monitor the temp in the cabin and heated engine room from my phone. Not loving the 72% humidity in the cabin over the winter. That seems to remain pretty constant. May drop in a West Marine air dryer to see if it helps any. I have a camera mounted to my arch facing straight down so that I can keep an eye on guests and kids in the cockpit while underway. It shows up on one of my chartplotter screens. Kind of like the idea of a full time 12 volt engine room camera that would do the same up there.
 

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