40 sedan bridge forum

I replaced the starboard alternator on a Cummins 400DB today. Almost. Removal was straight forward patiently removing hard to access bolts and screws on belt guard, coolant overflow jug and the alternator. I also removed the four coolant tank bolts to be able to slide it over a bit for more room for my arm to reach down. That part all took 2 hours. Had to drive the alternator to my brothers auto shop to have him remove the nut holding the pulley wheel. Couldn’t get that off myself. Putting the new one os the struggle. One hand from over top trying to line up bolts into tight thread holes. Three hours later got the two top bolts on and am now struggling with the one handed attachment of the bottom bracket bolt. Can’t get it lined up for the threads to bite. Again, doing it blind with one hand. I loosened the other end of the bracket as far as I could to give me more play. Came home and will give that bolt a go again tomorrow. Oh Joy. If I do it again I’ll drain coolant to completely remove the tank. I still may need to do that to give me better access to finish up.
 
I’ve not done this and I have cats anyway so my two cents is worth one, but a general rule I find with any tricky fitting is do the hardest part first, so can you get the bottom bracket bolt done first , even if it means hanging the unit roughly in place to take the weight off with a cable or some such temporary apparatus. Also does the bolt go in without the bracket, ie making sure thread and bolt are still friends bracket aside .forgive me if I am picturing the issue all wrong
 
I’ve not done this and I have cats anyway so my two cents is worth one, but a general rule I find with any tricky fitting is do the hardest part first, so can you get the bottom bracket bolt done first , even if it means hanging the unit roughly in place to take the weight off with a cable or some such temporary apparatus. Also does the bolt go in without the bracket, ie making sure thread and bolt are still friends bracket aside .forgive me if I am picturing the issue all wrong
Did both of those. Ran the bolt in on the bench top with no problem. Then I tried doing the bottom bracket first. Once I got that in, after two hours I couldn’t get the top bolt started. So I went back to disconnecting the bottom bolt and doing the top bolts first.
 
hmm, I’m running out of ideas, did you match up old alternator to new to make sure they are millimetre identical castings
 
Did both of those. Ran the bolt in on the bench top with no problem. Then I tried doing the bottom bracket first. Once I got that in, after two hours I couldn’t get the top bolt started. So I went back to disconnecting the bottom bolt and doing the top bolts first.
Look, it only needs two bolts. The third one is just an extra, for safety.

Obviously, I'm kidding. The store is making me shudder. I was kicking around the idea of preemptively replacing the alternators. I suppose I can replace one, the easy one. But I am sure not looking forward to going through what you're going through. Hope you have better luck tomorrow! Sometimes a good night's rest for the brain and the body is all you need.
 
Look, it only needs two bolts. The third one is just an extra, for safety.

Obviously, I'm kidding. The store is making me shudder. I was kicking around the idea of preemptively replacing the alternators. I suppose I can replace one, the easy one. But I am sure not looking forward to going through what you're going through. Hope you have better luck tomorrow! Sometimes a good night's rest for the brain and the body is all you need.
Worst case I’ll thru bolt it with a new narrower bolt and locking washer/nut.

I actual went to the port side and practiced starting the bracket bolt on it. It took some fiddling lining it up as well. It’s just all a tight fit.
 
Bill, I can’t totally remember but try doing the bolt that goes into the ear that has the sliding bushing in it first and leave it loose with the bushing not tight up against bracket. It’s at the end opposite the bolt that goes on the bottom so it will give you a little more wiggle to get that bottom bolt started next. Leave all the bolts loose until you have them all started.
 
So here is my backup plan. 10mm flange bolt/nut/lock washer through the existing 12mm (or 1/2 - not sure) threaded hole. Tried to find a correct threaded long bolt to thread in snug the other way than normal and then put nut and washer onto the end of that, but couldn’t find the exact size thread. Tried 12mm and 1/2 course and medium and they hung up after a few turns. I didn’t have the actual bolt so I’ll try again at the store with it. Just had the old alternator you see in the picture.
IMG_6722.jpeg
 
Hey Jamie, no luck figuring out how to stop that flow. In a heavy rain, there still is a stream of water through that opening. I am thankful to have just finished a flooring upgrade to Infinity, so no more soggy carpet.

Dave
 
Have any of you guys changed the starborad alternator? Do I need to remove anything besides the guard? I changed the port one and it was easy because of all the room you have to do the job. TIA
I have CAT 3126s. For the starboard alternator, I remove the air filter and move the coolant overflow reservoir. Then I use my foam pad and lay on top of the CAT, and get to work. I call the starboard unit my 2 hr alternator. The port alternator I call my 20 minute alternator. Go figure.

Dave
 
If this makes things any easier I cut an access hole over my starboard alternator under the soffa it made changing that alternator a piece of cake when I was through. I made a access cover for the hole I had made for future repairs. It made it easy to reach my zinc on my heat exchanger as well.
 
Does anyone know a trick to access the anchor locker ?
I need to replace my windlass, can I access thru the foreword stateroom?
Will the area at the head of be, can it be removed?
 
I have CAT 3126s. For the starboard alternator, I remove the air filter and move the coolant overflow reservoir. Then I use my foam pad and lay on top of the CAT, and get to work. I call the starboard unit my 2 hr alternator. The port alternator I call my 20 minute alternator. Go figure.

Dave
Did you up the Amps and if so did you need to upgrade anything else to handle the extra
 
I need the same end cap, port side, except mine is chrome. I call SeaRay tomorrow, 11-09-23
 
So, we endured a little storm last week. The boat suffered some scratches below the rub rail which I'll be able to take care of but what has me worried is this little( about 6") plastic end rub rail cap. I can't find it anywhere online.
Does anyone have any leads as to where i might find this or a suitable replacement
burning daylight, you have any luck finding this end cap? I have a 01 400DB and need same cap, port side, chrome.
 
Bill, I can’t totally remember but try doing the bolt that goes into the ear that has the sliding bushing in it first and leave it loose with the bushing not tight up against bracket. It’s at the end opposite the bolt that goes on the bottom so it will give you a little more wiggle to get that bottom bolt started next. Leave all the bolts loose until you have them all started.
So back on his boat today trying again. Got the bolt in in just a few minutes. Go figure. Guess I was worn out before.
 
So back on his boat today trying again. Got the bolt in in just a few minutes. Go figure. Guess I was worn out before.

Glad you got it in there! Our Port side gave up the fight while cruising Lake Superior 2 years ago. I had one shipped to the marina in Munising MI and when we got there a week later it was waiting for us. I was happy it was the Port side. Later that summer, back home, the Starboard side quit. I had the old port side one rebuilt so I was all set. The starboard side original one had 25 less hours on it than the port side because the original owner had it replaced under warranty the first year he owned the boat. (air heater grid shorted out) We had put 40 hours on the boat between the two alternator failures. Both alternators failed within 15 hours of each other, about 2600 hours on them. Maybe your friend should get ready to do the easy side :)
 
Glad you got it in there! Our Port side gave up the fight while cruising Lake Superior 2 years ago. I had one shipped to the marina in Munising MI and when we got there a week later it was waiting for us. I was happy it was the Port side. Later that summer, back home, the Starboard side quit. I had the old port side one rebuilt so I was all set. The starboard side original one had 25 less hours on it than the port side because the original owner had it replaced under warranty the first year he owned the boat. (air heater grid shorted out) We had put 40 hours on the boat between the two alternator failures. Both alternators failed within 15 hours of each other, about 2600 hours on them. Maybe your friend should get ready to do the easy side :)
I practice new stuff on his boat for when I have to do it on my boat. Ha!
 
Hi have a dripping dripless seal I’m looking to replace,i want to remove the shaft and replace the entire assembly can anyone tell me what size socket needed to remove the nylon nut behind the coupler that attaches the shaft,thanks in advance
 
Hi have a dripping dripless seal I’m looking to replace,i want to remove the shaft and replace the entire assembly can anyone tell me what size socket needed to remove the nylon nut behind the coupler that attaches the shaft,thanks in advance
Roger, The socket size for that nut is 1 13/16". If you already have a 1 7/8" six point, that will work fine because of the large size.
Also, unless you want to remove the shaft for some other reason, there is enough room to replace the assembly by just sliding the shaft back until the prop touches the rudder. Just throw a heavy towel over the prop so you don't ding a blade edge. There may not be enough room to get a puller on the flange this way, but you can press the shaft out of the flange by "reinstalling" the coupler halves. When you order the new nylock nuts, just get a regular "thick" nut to thread on half way and push against that. Or any way you can push on the shaft without bugger-n up the threads works too.
The nylock shaft nuts are "thin" because of clearance needs inside the flanges. The thread is 1 1/4"-12
Pics below show all the room you will have to work with by just sliding the shaft back prop to rudder. The other is the "thin" nylocks. I was able to just pick them up at the local Fastenall.
Starboard
IMG_0879.jpg


port
dripless seal 3.JPG


nuts
dripless seal 4.JPG
 

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