40 sedan bridge forum

Forgot to add this picture. It's a clear view without the 2x4 crossmember that holds the floor support. shows the hole I drilled a few years ago to pass an extension thru for removing the tranny filter. Makes life a lot easier come tranny oil change time.
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This is from several threads back, but wanted to get you guys a pic of back lighting the helm switches with new blue LED's. They dim along with the gauge lights. Had to pick up a second pair of LED's to cover the 3 rows of switches.
 

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my3sons said:
Forgot to add this picture. It's a clear view without the 2x4 crossmember that holds the floor support. shows the hole I drilled a few years ago to pass an extension thru for removing the tranny filter. Makes life a lot easier come tranny oil change time.
View attachment 83565
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I'm confused on pulling the shaft from the coupler. You said you threaded on a regular nut but that looks like the nylok nut without any nylok. How exactly did you use those two nuts again?

Although I had the pros do mine. $2400, parts and labor.
 
Drafter said:
This is from several threads back, but wanted to get you guys a pic of back lighting the helm switches with new blue LED's. They dim along with the gauge lights. Had to pick up a second pair of LED's to cover the 3 rows of switches.
Click to expand...
I'm having a hard time finding your original post. Where did you buy the 8" led strips and is blue the only color?
 
ZZ13 said:
I'm confused on pulling the shaft from the coupler. You said you threaded on a regular nut but that looks like the nylok nut without any nylok. How exactly did you use those two nuts again?

Although I had the pros do mine. $2400, parts and labor.
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The nylon nut is a thin nut for clearance when installed. If it was a standard
1 1/4” nylock it would be over an inch tall and interfere with the tranny half of the coupler. In addition, if you press against the nylok, it would crush the portion of the nut that holds the nylon.
The regular nut was just an 1 1/4-12 that is thicker so that when threaded on the shaft plenty enough to safely push against, it sticks out enough to contact the tranny half of the coupler.

Under $1000 for the seals. $4.00 for the regular nut at Fastenal.
 
my3sons said:
The nylon nut is a thin nut for clearance when installed. If it was a standard
1 1/4” nylock it would be over an inch tall and interfere with the tranny half of the coupler. In addition, if you press against the nylok, it would crush the portion of the nut that holds the nylon.
The regular nut was just an 1 1/4-12 that is thicker so that when threaded on the shaft plenty enough to safely push against, it sticks out enough to contact the tranny half of the coupler.

Under $1000 for the seals. $4.00 for the regular nut at Fastenal.
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I understand now. The thin nut was a replacement for the one that was on there that you had to remove.
 
I'm running turbo boost air hoses from the bridge to the engine room today. For those that haven't done it here is the route.

Through the hole from the bridge to the stereo compartment. Hole is right under port bridge speaker.
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Down the aft end of the stereo compartment into the back of the power panel area.
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Into the bridge stair cavity and down into the engine room. That's the two throttle cables and a transducer cable you see disappearing into the floor next to the brown spot in the floor.
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What are turbo boost air hoses?
Is this to improve air flow to the engine room?
ZZ13 said:
I'm running turbo boost air hoses from the bridge to the engine room today. For those that haven't done it here is the route.

Through the hole from the bridge to the stereo compartment. Hole is right under port bridge speaker.
View attachment 83598 View attachment 83599

Down the aft end of the stereo compartment into the back of the power panel area. View attachment 83600 View attachment 83601

Into the bridge stair cavity and down into the engine room. That's the two throttle cables and a transducer cable you see disappearing into the floor next to the brown spot in the floor.
View attachment 83602
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Minor upgrade today. Added an Axiom 12 to the helm. All other electronics still work so this didn’t replace anything (except my ipad). I plan to run this with charts and the RL80C with radar full screen.
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I did add AIS earlier this year so tomorrow I’ll install the NMEA2000 backbone and get AIS on the plotter. Once the network is in, I may run a drop to the Fusion in the cabin. But not tomorrow...

At the moment, the plotter is wired into the DC fuse box under the helm. There were a few open spots so I used one and popped in the fuse. I’m not sure if I’ll leave it like this. There is some small DC current draw even when powered off (the power on led is lit). The boat is always plugged in. But I may find a switched source instead. What did you that replaced plotters do? Direct power connections or switched power?
 

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scooper321 said:
Minor upgrade today. Added an Axiom 12 to the helm. All other electronics still work so this didn’t replace anything (except my ipad). I plan to run this with charts and the RL80C with radar full screen.
View attachment 83818

I did add AIS earlier this year so tomorrow I’ll install the NMEA2000 backbone and get AIS on the plotter. Once the network is in, I may run a drop to the Fusion in the cabin. But not tomorrow...

At the moment, the plotter is wired into the DC fuse box under the helm. There were a few open spots so I used one and popped in the fuse. I’m not sure if I’ll leave it like this. There is some small DC current draw even when powered off (the power on led is lit). The boat is always plugged in. But I may find a switched source instead. What did you that replaced plotters do? Direct power connections or switched power?
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Looks good. When I added my standalone Furuno radar, I wired the Furuno display to the output of the ELECTRONICS switch on the helm switch panel. Factory has Seatalk Bus power and Tridata power wired to that switch. So now I have three things on it.
 
I did the same as Bill. Wired my Garman stand alone mfd into the “electronics” switch
 
my3sons said:
I did the same as Bill. Wired my Garman stand alone mfd into the “electronics” switch
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I am considering that. I wired the AIS xcvr into the Accessory switch, which powers my sonar (that I never use). And I planned to put the N2K network on that too. Putting the plotter on Electronics makes sense. Did you guys add a fuse in the line off the electronics switch to your radar or plotter? I assume you did...
 
my3sons said:
I did add a fuse I think, it’s been a while :)
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Done. N2K installed (with fuse) on the Accessory switch. Moved the plotter to the Electronics switch. And we have AIS data on the plotter!
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And please forgive the glare on the screen. You actually don’t see that in real life!
 
What have people used to replace the backlighting on the helm console? If your boat is like mine, the light bar that is wrapped in tin foil that surrounds the rows of switches on the back of the switch panel has fallen apart. I’m sure I can locate some LED light strips and wire them in. But if someone has found a good solution that would save me some time researching. Any recommendations?
 
scooper321 said:
What have people used to replace the backlighting on the helm console? If your boat is like mine, the light bar that is wrapped in tin foil that surrounds the rows of switches on the back of the switch panel has fallen apart. I’m sure I can locate some LED light strips and wire them in. But if someone has found a good solution that would save me some time researching. Any recommendations?
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Factory replacement

https://www.fpmarine.com/Instrument-panel-backlighting-p/strip-light-dpl.htm
 
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