340 Windlass core rot repair complete!! Pics and details along the way.

Discussion in 'Fiberglass/Wood/Gelcoat Repair' started by NJMatt50, May 27, 2013.

  1. NJMatt50

    NJMatt50 Member

    208
    Apr 28, 2009
    Jersey Shore
    2000 Sundancer 340
    7.4 MPI V drives
    I Found that the windlass was loose at the top deck of my 340. After further inspection I found that the reason this was the case was due to water intrusion around the windlass and foot switches. I was going over options and decided to tackle this myself and with the help of a buddy of mine. I have taken pics along the way to show what we did. Be sure to re-bed your hardware ever so often!

    Area thought to be rotted upon inspection.


    [​IMG]




    Starting to cut using the fein tool -
    notice we made the cut between the anchor bow rail and cleat. This way it will bolt back together later.


    [​IMG]


    Surprise! -
    This looks really bad. It looks worse than it is. There was no wood left around the foot switches.


    [​IMG]


    Cleaned up -All the rot is cleaned out. Also made a lip about 1.5 inches under the existing deck.

    [​IMG]



    Wood added - 3/8" Best outdoor Home Depot ply added to anchor area. This was thicker than the area by the foot switches to support the windlass load. I keyed the wood under the existing area dug out on the sides. The wood was epoxied down using West Systems product.

    [​IMG]


    Windlass plywood
    - 1/2" Marine ply added on windlass side. Again note that this is keyed past where the bow rail and cleat are bolted up. This will make for everything to be bolted together when complete. The bottom corner was tucked in as well for support. Also made some holes in the wood for the epoxy to flow down a level.

    [​IMG]


    Foot switch side wood
    - Another 1/2 piece of wood was added and keyed under the existing lip. This could not be "tucked" under the lip with 1 piece. Therefore this had to be done in 2 and fiberglassed in between.


    [​IMG]



    Top Deck replaced -
    Once this all was dry we then were able to fit the top back flush with the rest of the deck. A little sanding was needed to make a proper fit. This was super strong after that West System epoxy dried up.

    [​IMG]



    Template made -
    So instead of dealing with the seams of the top deck I decided to go with synthetic teak. I made a template from cardboard of exactly what I wanted. Sent it to TT Custom Marine.

    [​IMG]



    Holes drilled and sealed up -
    Before I glued the teak down I drilled most of the holes and used 4200 sealant around the areas prone to water intrusion.


    [​IMG]


    Complete!!! -
    All hardware installed and sealed up. I think the teak makes for a good look.

    [​IMG]

    All in all this took a few weekends. Was a good deal of work. Finally can use my windlass again.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2014
    Harborite88 likes this.
  2. H2ONUT

    H2ONUT Active Member

    Nov 26, 2006
    Shelton, CT
    2000 215EC
    5.0 EFI Mercruiser Alpha
    Damn that looks amazing!! Great job man!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. Lazy Daze

    Lazy Daze Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor

    Apr 21, 2009
    PA
    Various
    Various
    Looks nice and great job! I'm doing the same thing right now. Only difference is that I chose to tackle this from below by cutting out the underside via standing on my head through the anchor locker hatch. I started doing it that way and then later decided to add the fake teak. Wish I would have decided to do the fake teak earlier - trust me when I tell you (and for anyone reading this and thinking of doing something similar) it would have been MUCH, MUCH, MUCH easier to cut the top deck off. FYI, that first sheet of 3/8" plywood doesn't look like marine ply (shouldn't have any knots). But, as long as you didn't use PT ply, it really shouldn't matter since everything is encapsulated in epoxy. The 4200 is more than sufficient, but for future reference, drill your holes out larger than needed, fill with epoxy and then redrill the right size - this will encapsulate the hole sides with epoxy, too. BUT, nice job!
     
  4. Quint4

    Quint4 Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor SILVER Sponsor

    Oct 6, 2006
    S.W. Ohio
    330 Sport Bridge
    5.7 MPI 350 Merc Bluewaters
    Very interesting. Good work.
     
  5. 2000SEARAY280SS

    2000SEARAY280SS Member

    919
    May 7, 2007
    Potomac River
    ArrowCat 30ES
    Twin Verados 250
    Awesome work. Had to do the same thing with a spot on my cockpit deck. Its stronger than ever now. That's one area you will not need to worry about again.
     
  6. IanBat

    IanBat New Member

    Nov 19, 2011
    Sydney, Australia
    Pro Tournament 36' 1999
    Twin Cummins 5.9L 370hp B Series
    Good Job, and the teak finished it off really well
     
  7. rcon

    rcon New Member

    481
    Jun 16, 2011
    Adelaide
    Preparation
    '93 300 Sundancer
    w/ Kohler genset
    Raymarine E7D
    4.3l Mercruisers w/Alpha 1
    Looks fantastic, top work.

    You say it took several weekends, was this all day both days, or a bit one day, let stuff cure and back the next?
     
  8. rcknecht

    rcknecht Active Member

    Mar 23, 2009
    toms river,nj
    340 Sundancer 2001
    T 454 MPI
    Nice job Matt...
     
  9. dpmulvey

    dpmulvey New Member

    Dec 19, 2007
    Homeport: Charles City, VA
    1999/2007 330 Sundancer Hardtop.
    6.2 Merc Horixons
    1.5:1 Velvet Drives
    Very nice. The teak adds a nice touch.
     
  10. NJMatt50

    NJMatt50 Member

    208
    Apr 28, 2009
    Jersey Shore
    2000 Sundancer 340
    7.4 MPI V drives
    Well as far as the times goes. I believe 1 day cut it off, cleaned and epoxied in the first lower 3/8. Let that cure a week, came back the following Sat or Sun added the 2 top wood pieces, next weekend stuck the top layer on. Couple weekends later I made the template, that took like couple hrs to do it correctly. another few hrs to glue the teak in place. Another few hrs to bed all that hardware back in place. I was only working on it 1 day a week. I think I am prob in to this for 25 - 30 hrs.
     
  11. spikedaddy99

    spikedaddy99 Member GOLD Sponsor

    657
    Jun 11, 2008
    Prentice, Wi
    2005 500 DB
    QSM-11
    Wow. One of my foot switch covers broke last season. This winter I replaced them and found they weren't sealed in place AT ALL. This would have been my fate...

    Mike
     
  12. TIME WELL WASTED

    TIME WELL WASTED New Member

    178
    Dec 28, 2006
    MIDWEST
    1995 290 Sundancer w/out arch twins & gen. 1993 454 3/4 ton Suburban tow vehicle.
    2001 efi closed cooled 6 cylinders.
    How did you find out you had rot?
     
  13. NJMatt50

    NJMatt50 Member

    208
    Apr 28, 2009
    Jersey Shore
    2000 Sundancer 340
    7.4 MPI V drives
    Found that the windlass was loose back and forth. Tried to tighten it and it was compressing the cores together. You can also tap the top deck with something solid and hear the differences between a soft core and solid core.
     
  14. TIME WELL WASTED

    TIME WELL WASTED New Member

    178
    Dec 28, 2006
    MIDWEST
    1995 290 Sundancer w/out arch twins & gen. 1993 454 3/4 ton Suburban tow vehicle.
    2001 efi closed cooled 6 cylinders.
    Is picture #4 what is left after you took the bad wood out? So that means the wood is sandwiched in between two layers of fiberglass?
     
  15. NJMatt50

    NJMatt50 Member

    208
    Apr 28, 2009
    Jersey Shore
    2000 Sundancer 340
    7.4 MPI V drives
    Yes, that is was the bottom layer of fiberglass. The plywood was the "core" between the top skin and bottom skin. Plywood was used there for the anchor support. The bottom layer of fiber is flimsy, not too thick. Top layer was stiff. The other parts of the top deck have balsa wood as the core.
     
  16. ZZ13

    ZZ13 Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Nov 25, 2009
    Lady's Island, SC
    2001 400 Sedan Bridge
    Cummins 450 Diamond
    How did you keep the repaired area from being its own component structurally independent from the rest of the boat? From the pictures it seems like the only continuity to the rest of the boat is the bonding of the plywood to the thin under layer of fiberglass. What did you do to keep a good hard tug on the anchor from pulling that whole repair section right out?
     
  17. Bugsy24

    Bugsy24 Active Member

    Jun 25, 2010
    Freehold, New Jersey
    2008 310 Sundancer
    T-350 Mag,Br3's W/Axius
    Great Job Matt... your an "Artist"!!
     
  18. gerryb

    gerryb Well-Known Member TECHNICAL Contributor

    Oct 12, 2006
    Somers Point, NJ
    "On Vacation"
    2006 40 Sundancer
    Raymarine E125 & HD Radar + Garmin 5208
    QSB5.9 380 Cummins

    I don't think its completely independent of the rest of the structure. The new wood is well bonded to the fiberglass, which itself is bonded to the other wood on the deck. Point is that while not as integrated as original, I think it would be somewhat structural given the layers of bonding agent used. I'm not sure how to really make this type of repair 100% attached to the rest of the decking as we talking about butted sheets of plywood?? Good question though..
     
  19. ZZ13

    ZZ13 Well-Known Member GOLD Sponsor

    Nov 25, 2009
    Lady's Island, SC
    2001 400 Sedan Bridge
    Cummins 450 Diamond
    We are all supposed to wrap our rode around the cleat to take the force off the windlass motor. So the cleat is the key component. The cut is to the left of the cleat, so the cleat is sitting on top of the original full fiberglass bow topdeck. But it looks like there is enough of the old wood cut away under the cleat so that new wood is under the cleats mounting holes.

    Edit: So the more I look at the pics I finally figured out that the new plywood extends 1.5" under the existing topdeck and is bonded to the underside of the existing topdeck with epoxy all the way around. Plus you have 4 bolts for the rode channel and cleat adding more securing. This should keep it solidly in place when walking or jumping on it - so you don't push through the repair, as well as when pulling up on the cleat.

    I think this job is fabulous and I have no criticisms. Just trying to learn about the logic that went into the repair to ensure it would still hold when anchored or walking/jumping on it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2013
  20. joeyleggz

    joeyleggz Member

    324
    Jan 15, 2013
    long island
    current boat: 1997 sea ray 330 express cruiser
    twin 454's efi
    that looks great going to do the same job on my 330 express soon the foot switches and windlass have soft spots:smt089
     

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