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Discussion in 'Fiberglass/Wood/Gelcoat Repair' started by NJMatt50, May 27, 2013.
Pics back up....
I missed this thread when you originally posted it. What a great job and it looks very nice with that teak up there. Well done!
After reading this thread you have me cautious about my own boat! When you say you can tell a difference when you find a soft spot, how soft are you implying? Can you press it with your fingers and feel it go in or what should I be looking for?
Well the original way I found something wrong was the windlass was loose, can move it right from the top. The play came from the rotten core. The other way is to tap on the deck with the back of a screw driver. You can actually hear a difference from a solid core vs. a soft area. It is not easy to press in. The design is bad that area up there is totally flat so water puddles up. 2003 its pitched.... re-bed the hardware before you have any issues...
What did you use to re-seal the cut lines in the fiberglass ? Was the 4200 wet when you applied the teak ?
Looks real good!
Wow, the before pic was scary. The after pic truly is better than new! Great job.
We need a "like" button.
This is scary and incredible at the same time. Since seeing this post, I started working on my 99 340. So far so good. I got the foot pedals, scuff plate, cleat and horn off - how did you get the windlass off? Does the top piece separate from the bottom? I see a couple of screws when I look in the anchor rode locker. Remove those and everything comes apart?
Great job -the picture really make the story!
There are quite a few details in my blog about re-coring the foredeck on a 340. The windlass, if you have the same model as me, a Lofrans Progress 1, is held together by 4 studs with the nuts in the anchor compartment. You'll have to stick your head down in there, and look up at the base of the windlass, and you'll see the nuts. You'll have to loosen them all together, a little at a time, until enough room is created to slip them out of position. It's tight in there, so be patient. The windlass drive motor is heavy, so I recommend blocking it in position while you loosen the nuts. This is also a good time to remove the rode, stretch it out, and examine it for wear. Let me know if you have any questions.
when you glued the teak down , did you just use the peel n stick from the teak or did you and 4200 or something else to help stick,also did you seal the edges of the teak to the fiberglass?
First of all, thanks for sharing your repair!
Im in the same stage right now that you where before and looking for guidiance.
Does anybody have the old repair pictures? It's only shows "please update you account for enableing 3rd part hosting"
Thanks / Kim