300 Sundancer questions.

Thanks and same to you!

Make sure you put a piece of tape to mark the 12 o'clock position on your steering wheel when your drives are dead straight, and know how many turns it takes to go hard over in either direction (for me it is exactly one and a half turns). That'll help you get back to center really quick if you do need to use the wheel. When, if, I get a calm day and a large area to play, I'm going to figure out how she reacts to opposite throttle positions when the wheel is turned hard over. I have read where some people can make their boats crab walk sideways by doing this. I'm sure it depends on the boat though. Sure would come in handy as I quite often have to leave a tight dock when tied to starboard.

I have never had to use the tabs to get on plane. And that is with full fuel, three people, gear, and a 100 lb dinghy weaver mounted on the platform. She pops up super quick, I just goose it to about 4000 rpm, then start backing off to cruise ton as she raises up. I only use the tabs for leveling. I have an all chain rode and keep my small outboard on the sunpad so maybe it is that extra weight helping me get on plane. You may want to consider adding some foreword weight. Also, I don't find that trimming up does anything to help my efficiency at cruise, actually the opposite, anything more than a quick up shot seems to cause porpoising, so usually I don't even bother.
 
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Interested in this as well. Really though I am considering removing it completely and using the space for something else. My son would be the only one watching tv and I have a good portable player that he can use to move around the boat if necessary.
 
Ours came with out a tv there. I took the metal slider rack out and the admiral is think of some type of possible basket storage thing or something with the space. It is pretty large and I we all have laptops or tablets. Can always use extra storage! Does anyone have any pictures of what they may have rigged for storage in that spot?
 
Wine rack:thumbsup: Maybe after the kids are off to college and it is just us. Update on swivel shaft repair: Currently she has both motors pulled and we are adding to the job two brand new transom assemblies. I have come to terms with it and am looking forward to getting her back and enjoying some time with her.
 

Thank You this is very Helpful, and the exact TV I was looking at! I am going to try the 19" Samsung I have at home and see how that works. It may or may not work because of the foot configuration is not removable, but it will turn back as a mounting bracket, which gives me two options for mounting (Foot Bracket or Back of the TV if I can get the foot off). Like you I will most likely have to move the stock mount or get the swing arm you posted.
 
Anyone replace the trim molding on the swim platform ('04) and remember how many feet you had to order? I'd like to order today, won't be on the boat til Saturday to measure.
 
Update, picked the boat up last weekend with new assembly for both motors. On 50 mile trip home lost power steering turned out to be a lose hose, no big deal. Tightened, cleaned bilge, all good. I do however have a lot of cavitation now getting up on plane. Called mechanic and he said next time I'm up that way he will pull it and adjust lower units 50 miles one way. Will be asking him for a fuel help this weekend. Is there an adjustment available for units going down? I did not think so?
 
Yes - there is a spacer referred to as the "celery stick" where the ram mounts to the outdrive that affects how far the drive can go down - probably in the wrong position
 
I put units all the way down as well as tabs when I begin and as she planes tabs go up. Was not cavatating prior to repairs. Port side trims up very little before trailer trim is needed so some adjustments are needed. I have tried slow throttle as well, nothing makes a difference. I have searched forums and am more than confused.
 
Hey all, Okay I have a question about fuel consumption. I've noticed my port side engine is consuming about 1.0 to 1.8 more GPH than my starboard side on plane at 3400-4100 rpm 26-32mph gps speed. This happens even after my RPMs and trim are balanced equally (No generator running, and pretty well balanced load) The difference in fuel consumption seems to be consistent and proportional to the increase in RPM. Below 2500 RPM the are only off a little, but when I'm on plane and out for the long haul the port side is using more, and I can see the difference in my fuel gauge. For example I was out playing this Saturday and started with 1/2 tank of fuel on both sides, and 1/2 tank fresh water. Went for a run and on Plane at 3950 RPM (32 gps speed) my starboard engine 11.2 GPH and Port is 12.7 GPH. Anyone else experience this, is it common, is there a fix? I had all Maintenance done, oil changes, bottom cleaned, etc, prior to weatherization last year.
 
Went for a run up the river and spent a couple nights in Clayton this past week. Filled up both sides with 40.7 gallons starboard and 49.5 port. Had used genny a bit but I would be safe to say port sucks more than starboard. I pay a lot of attention to sinc gauge.
 
I have been looking at a 94 dancer and after lots and back and fourth my offer was accepted today. However the one issue that I can't figure out is why the carpet in the rear berth is getting soaked. The owner said he couldn't find the leak, it has been an ongoing issue for him and at this point he just wants to sell the boat b/c he got a new one and he's not looking to figure out the leak.

He said when he gets to the boat it's always dry inside. However when he goes out, that area gets wet. I was thinking it's probably something in the bow of the boat that rushes back as the boat moves forward. Could the AC not be draining properly? Anyone have any suggestions?

FWIW- this boat was in my marina for a few years and I've never known it to be underwater, so I believe it is from a leak not a case of it being submerged. Not to mention the water stains are only in that back area.

Thanks
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