300 Sundancer questions.

You're probably the type of guy that only gets info from one news source. NTTAWWT.
o_O nope, I prefer to stay away from the media. I just dislike folks giving bad instructions and costing others more money and headaches. And the facepalm is full of that.
 
Stoked, finally got all new canvass and glass. Upgraded to polycarbonate for all five panels in front of the arch and strata-glass for rear of the arch. Looks fresh once again.
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Yeah, our drives both worked when we trialed. I pulled it home knowing the bellows needed replaced on both drives. Replaced the bellows on both drives along with bearings. Went through everything but the sensors. Got it all done and the starboard drive wouldn't go up properly or show on the gauge. After looking close, yup! Both wires the insulation was cracked. I should have replaced them. Oh well. I have tape marks on my dock hook and just adjust to the marks.

I'm glad I don't have the hatch actuators. But I still have a neon orange ratchet strap that I tie them open with. When I was working at the composite shop, watched a coworker drop a heavy lid on his hand. Lost the tips of his four fingers when that lip caught them between the drain channel and lid edge. If I'm going to be down in the bilge working for any length of time, I move them completely out of the way and tie them up. It was bad enough when I got stuck under the port engine when i was replacing the starter. Four hours wedged and stuck. Fat guys need to keep their phones close and/or out of the tight bilge. On the bright side, I did get a good nap.
OMG! I would have been found DEAD. Need both starters done on my 86 300 SD. Gonna pay $600 because I'm old, fat and afraid.
 
OMG! I would have been found DEAD. Need both starters done on my 86 300 SD. Gonna pay $600 because I'm old, fat and afraid.
I wasn't afraid of dying. I was afraid of the cramps I get in my back and legs. So, I got comfortable under the motor and just went to sleep. No harm, no foul. I paid a nephew to finish the job. It was fun watching a 6'3" kid that weighs in at 120 wedge himself down in there.
 
Just swapped out new fuel senders in the gas tanks of the 05 300 dancer. I finally got sick of them being way off and the smartcraft alarming when there was still 25 gallons in the tank. Not that hard of a job and now they should be way more accurate with the new style.

Used KUS USA fuel senders SSS/SSL Sender - SAE 5 Hole Pattern Mount - 20".
https://kus-usa.com/product/sss-ssl-sender/

figured id post the info if anyone was looking to do the same.
 
Just swapped out new fuel senders in the gas tanks of the 05 300 dancer. I finally got sick of them being way off and the smartcraft alarming when there was still 25 gallons in the tank. Not that hard of a job and now they should be way more accurate with the new style.

Used KUS USA fuel senders SSS/SSL Sender - SAE 5 Hole Pattern Mount - 20".
https://kus-usa.com/product/sss-ssl-sender/

figured id post the info if anyone was looking to do the same.

Nice. My stbd gauge shows about 1/4 less at anything other than full. Fueling up, the difference is only around 5 or so gallons.

Were the senders easy enough to get to and pull out?
 
Yes the starboard side is super easy and accessible, 5 Allen screws and it pulls out. The port side same but tighter. You can still pull out but can’t put in. I found there is an access hole if you open the port panel where you battery switches and breakers are at. Remove the four screws holding it in and pull out. There is a hole already drilled through just covered by the foam insulation. I just took a pair of scissors and cut an x. Then I was able to drop the new sensor right into the tank.
These are nice and accurate vs the originals which were the old style floats on an arm. These are just a rod with the float that moves up and down on said rod.
 
I recently replaced my vhf antenna because I was loosing all of the coating on the leading edge. To help me gain access to that area for cable pull, I removed the throttle quad and in the process pulling it up, I broke one of the 2 neutral safety switches. Luckily port side switch, easier access.
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That wasn't going to stop me. I just removed the switch, and made contact on the wires and fired up. Re-tuck the quad and go.
No pics 'cause I was in full troubleshoot/temp-fix mode. A long weekend and cold drinks were waiting.
 
Yes the starboard side is super easy and accessible, 5 Allen screws and it pulls out. The port side same but tighter. You can still pull out but can’t put in. I found there is an access hole if you open the port panel where you battery switches and breakers are at. Remove the four screws holding it in and pull out. There is a hole already drilled through just covered by the foam insulation. I just took a pair of scissors and cut an x. Then I was able to drop the new sensor right into the tank.
These are nice and accurate vs the originals which were the old style floats on an arm. These are just a rod with the float that moves up and down on said rod.
Right on. Thanks for the info.
 
Also, during the same Memorial weekend, my hot water tank decided to boil water out the overboard drain. Water and steam were pouring out with authority. Thought it was the pressure relief valve that I replaced weeks earlier. Nope.
So, we have 2 thermostats on these tanks. A normal 140° and a 180° with an electrical cutoff. Well, my element was not getting the message to shutdown.
I replaced both t-stats, which was relatively easy. Works like a champ now.
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Yes the starboard side is super easy and accessible, 5 Allen screws and it pulls out. The port side same but tighter. You can still pull out but can’t put in. I found there is an access hole if you open the port panel where you battery switches and breakers are at. Remove the four screws holding it in and pull out. There is a hole already drilled through just covered by the foam insulation. I just took a pair of scissors and cut an x. Then I was able to drop the new sensor right into the tank.
These are nice and accurate vs the originals which were the old style floats on an arm. These are just a rod with the float that moves up and down on said rod.
I am very interested in performing this upgrade on my 2007 300DA.
Was it necessary to recalibrate the Smartcraft gauges afterwards? What was the wiring installation like?

Thanks for posting this
 
I am very interested in performing this upgrade on my 2007 300DA.
Was it necessary to recalibrate the Smartcraft gauges afterwards? What was the wiring installation like?

Thanks for posting this
It was very easy, just 5 Allen screws holding the sensor to the tank. My old sensor had two screw poles for the two wires. This one I just spliced the two wire together. One is for the gauge the other is the ground. As far as recalibrating I have not yet and it seems to be registering correctly. I still may for shits and giggles once I run the tank down. That process is easy enough to do.
 
You guys still running your original onboard battery charger? Inteli-power PD2030 is what's in my '04 300. Tried to post a pic but no luck. Anyway, was wondering if you all knew if that was original equipment on our boats. And for those of you who have upgraded or changed it due to malfunction, did you replace with the same or change/upgrade to a different unit. Obviously I would want something with the same footprint so it fits in the existing spot and accepts the same wiring arrangement.
 
You guys still running your original onboard battery charger? Inteli-power PD2030 is what's in my '04 300. Tried to post a pic but no luck. Anyway, was wondering if you all knew if that was original equipment on our boats. And for those of you who have upgraded or changed it due to malfunction, did you replace with the same or change/upgrade to a different unit. Obviously I would want something with the same footprint so it fits in the existing spot and accepts the same wiring arrangement.

No way. It is original and old technology. Dinosaur. Throw it away. The smart chargers today are infinitely better. Promariner 1230 or 1240 fits in the same place. Easy DIY upgrade.
 
I replaced mine with the Promariner a couple years ago. It's a direct replacement with no wiring changes as long as you go with the same size as before or the wire gage is already large enough to accept the next size up.
 
Hey guys. What is the name of the fuel sending units that I read so much about? I'm tired of not knowing what's in my tanks.
 

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