260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

On mine you unzip and unsnap the front bimini canvas from the arch. Then you fold the canvas around the the upper part of the frame then put the cover over it. The frame stays in place without folding it. The rear bimini is similar except the aft section just needs to be unzipped from the small section of the bimini that is attached to the arch. Again, no folding of the aft bimini poles is required. (In looking at the picture of your boat it does not appear you have the rear bimini top or rear camper canvas........only a slant back canvas...... for yours. If that's the case you can only fold your front bimini. You likely either have to leave that rear bimini in place or take it completely down.)

If you are missing the covers, you can order them directly from http://www.greatlakesboattop.com/ at a substantial discount compared to ordering them thru your dealer.

The entire canvas installation guide is also available for downloading on Sea Ray's web site (just beware this a 34KB file) http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/company1729/1C1_51_74DEXLTCJ008.pdf
and that may help explain a few things as well.


Dave
 
Last edited:
Dave,

Thanks for your reply. I do have the rear bimini too, just hard to make out from the pick, and as I examined it, it's clearly new as well. So the only stitch of original canvas is the forward bimini. The new rear bimini only snaps to the arch rather than zip and snap like the original. I’m not happy about that, but as I recall from the sea trial, we had the boat as high as the upper 30's without the canvas flying off. I'm going to watch that.

After putting the canvases up, it appears that my setup works the same way yours does except for the camper top, which I don't have. So it looks like I'll need to procure a couple of canvas boots to protect the biminis and let the mooring cover do the work when we’re not using the boat.
 
Back in September, we had some posts here regarding installation of the Garmin 540 series GPS. I have been looking at using the fuel monitoring capabilities of this unit and I see in the manual that Garmin has an external fuel sensor kit for enabling this; the GFS 10. Have any of you who have a 540 series installed/use this fuel tracking functionality? If so, anything to be aware of?

GFS™ 10

Part Number: 010-00671-00
 
I think Todd (Nehalenia) uses it. Maybe PM him.
 
Dave S said:
I just had mine out of the water for three days to polish and wax the boat, service the outdrive, and to paint the outdrive. My corrosion problem continues to worsen particularly around the prop hub and the bearing carrier. I took lots of pictures and asked the dealer to contact Mercury about the corrosion issues. This time I did not take the time to make the drive look beautiful. I just hit the corrosion with a brass wire brush on my drill, primed with zinc chromate and then painted with phantom black enamel. It may not be beautiful but it will be functional.

Here is one example of the problem I am fighting even though I have the extra mercathode protection and change my zincs on a regular basis. Take a look at the lower section of the bearing carrier around the drive seal. The metal is really being eaten away here.

DSC07584.jpg


Here is the same area 11 months ago. At this rate it is just a matter of time before I get some type of failure. Depending on what Mercury says, I know I will need to do something probably within the next year if they won't cover this under warranty. I would probably just opt for a new lower unit. It is also interesting to note that I have zero corrosion issues on the upper part of the outdrive. That finish is in perfect condition.

DSC06212-1.jpg
Click to expand...

Dave,

Did Mercury ever get back with you regarding your bearing carrier corrosion issues?

Just curious. Good to see you posting on a regular basis again.
 
SeaRide said:
Dave,

Did Mercury ever get back with you regarding your bearing carrier corrosion issues?

Just curious. Good to see you posting on a regular basis again.
Click to expand...

Charlie

The entire lower unit was replaced under warranty. Further testing showed the Mercathode on the transom assembly wasn't working either so that was replaced under warranty. The additional Mercathode anodes I have on the transom itself were working but without the protection of the main transom assembly system, the corrosion would be much worse than expected. I think the next investment for me is my own anode tester like this one http://www.boatzincs.com/corrosion-reference-electrode-specs.html so I can check the system on a regular basis myself to see if it is working.

Dave
 
Dave S said:
Charlie

The entire lower unit was replaced under warranty. Further testing showed the Mercathode on the transom assembly wasn't working either so that was replaced under warranty. The additional Mercathode anodes I have on the transom itself were working but without the protection of the main transom assembly system, the corrosion would be much worse than expected. I think the next investment for me is my own anode tester like this one http://www.boatzincs.com/corrosion-reference-electrode-specs.html so I can check the system on a regular basis myself to see if it is working.

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,

I found this one if you want to save some money... :grin:

http://www.reliabilitydirectstore.com/RDI-CRE-Corrosion-Reference-Electrode-p/rdi-cre.htm
 
Dave,

Thanks for the update and I'm glad it was covered under warranty. Any idea how the SeaCore Drives are holding up on Wylie?

Hmmm would have been nice to ask for a SeaCore low unit, but I'd be surprised if Merc. would mix/match upper and lower units, not to mention transom assemblies.
 
Last edited:
SeaRide said:
Dave,

Thanks for the update and I'm glad it was covered under warranty. Any idea how the SeaCore Drive are holding up on Wylie?

Hmmm would have been nice to ask for a SeaCore low unit, but I'd be surprised if Merc. would mix/match upper and lower units, not to mention transom assemblies.
Click to expand...

Apparently they haven't sold any Sea Rays with Sea Cores yet becasue I was inquiring about that myself the other day.
 
I have only seen a couple with our dealer over a year ago - a 290DA (twins) and a 280DA (single). I don't know if they were sold on Murray or elsewhere.
 
Hi everyone.

Not sure if I am in the right place. I am looking for a replacement dash panel for my Sea Ray 290 BR. Any ideas where I can find one?

Sam
 
SR290BR2004 said:
Hi everyone.

Not sure if I am in the right place. I am looking for a replacement dash panel for my Sea Ray 290 BR. Any ideas where I can find one?

Sam
Click to expand...

Welcome aboard, Sam. Wrong place? Well, you've posted in a thread dedicated to the 260DA. But, that doesn't mean you won't find help. :smt001

Have you tried your dealer? It may still be available, but pricey. Try a "title only" search for 'dash panel' (and other similar words) -- that should result in plenty of threads that will give you information about what people have already done to replace their panels.
 
Not necessarily a 260 specific question but more of an Bravo III question but here goes.

As it happens to most of us time and life have gotten ahead of me. THe boat is stored and winterized but i forgot to put the outdrive in the down postion. My question is weather or not i have "seated" the bellows and am looking at a new set or can i still go ahead and put the drive down with no damage to them. Also it is forcast to be a balmy 15 degrees this weekend so shoud I, a) heat the ER up to warm the fluids, and b) should i run a torpedo heater, near not directly beneath, the outdrive to warm the bellows up as to not crack the rubber.

Thanks for any input
 
Last edited:
Zorba said:
Not necessarily a 260 specific question but more of an Bravo III question but here goes.

As it happens to most of us time and life have gotten ahead of me. THe boat is stored and winterized but i forgot to put the outdrive in the down postion. My question is weather or not i have "seated" the bellows and am looking at a new set or can i still go ahead and put the drive down with no damage to them. Also it is forcast to be a balmy 15 degrees this weekend so shoud I, a) heat the ER up to warm the fluids, and b) should i run a torpedo heater, near not directly beneath, the outdrive to warm the bellows up as to not crack the rubber.

Thanks for any input
Click to expand...

My 2006 260 DA does not have an exhaust bellows....I don't think your's would either.

Kendall
 
Yes, it's better to store it in the down position. But, in reality, it will be fine if left up. Really, though, how long is it going to be up? 4 months? No big deal. It's one of those things that, yes it's better - but it really isn't that big of a deal.

Also, you should be able to put it down without causing damage. I wouldn't do it really fast, though. If you're feeling energetic, then the torpedo certainly won't hurt.

You could lower it by simply cracking the hi-pressure lines on the cylinders. No need to even get inside the boat. You'll need to catch the overspilling oil - and remember to top off the fluid in the Spring.

Kendall - you're right - probably no exhaust bellows. But there are other ones in there.
 
I believe that his concern is regarding the U-joint bellows. I would put it down if I could get to the boat, and have power to lower it. I hope they put a zip door in your shrink wrap. If they didn't, procure one first so you can close the boat back up.

15 degrees, eh? I would go with option "b". Put the bullet heater about 3-5' away and point that sucker right at the bellows until it feels warm to the touch. Then lower the drive.

Dang you Dennis... beat me to it again. Hehe... Happy New Year my friend!
 
skibum said:
Dang you Dennis... beat me to it again. Hehe... Happy New Year my friend!
Click to expand...

Oh man, 'ya should of seen my fingers! They flying over the keys! :smt043 Happy New Year!
 
The bellows should be no problem. My previous 240SD (as well as hundreds of other boats in our Mairna) were stored year round in dry storage with the drive in the up position because that is what the Marina required. I never once heard of anyone experiencing a problem because of this.

One thing I would ask though...........is your boat stored outside with the drive up? If so, is there a cover over the props to prevent water from getting into the prop shaft area and freezing?

Dave
 
Thanks for all the replies gentlemen. I did put a bag over props just n case of this scenario.

Again tahnks for hte quick replies and puting my mind at ease
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,275
Messages
1,429,859
Members
61,149
Latest member
Mark Knight
Back
Top