220 DA thread

Rockhead..... Wow, great job! Did you just use one hinge for the rear seat, doing away with the double hinge setup?

Also, is see cables going through the bottom of the starboard side compartment, in the "before" photo. What are those cables for? I didn't have any cables there, but I did add a battery switch exactly in that spot, and had to make the same hole leading to the engine compartment, to route the battery cables.
 
Danny Troy said:
Rockhead..... Wow, great job! Did you just use one hinge for the rear seat, doing away with the double hinge setup?

Also, is see cables going through the bottom of the starboard side compartment, in the "before" photo. What are those cables for? I didn't have any cables there, but I did add a battery switch exactly in that spot, and had to make the same hole leading to the engine compartment, to route the battery cables.
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I reconstructed the original hinge design that Sea Ray used. I was able to reuse the original aluminum hinges. I replaced the hinge on the bolster though with a stainless steel hinge.

The "cables" you are referring to are either gray water hose or the wire harness from the gauge panel to the engine compartment. After looking at the pic, I am not sure why there are 2 hoses in the area. There should be only one which feeds the bathroom unless it was plumbed from the factory for both hot and cold water.

I have been filling all the miscellaneous screw holes left by previous owners with white marine tex and sanding them smooth. The color match isn't perfect but the boat is 21 years old. What's the big deal if the color doesn't match. The bimini top guy will be coming by today to price out new bimini tops and a new mooring cover. The generic universal cover I got online didn't work out. Wish me luck.
 
Yes, get ready for sticker shock when you hear the prices of new canvas. If you can go for the $$$, the full camper enclosure is very nice. I had it on my last boat, which was a pontoon boat. I like it so much I had to have it on this boat also. If you have any interest in it, do it while they are constructing the Bimini, or it get a little more complicated when they have to add it later on.

Also, to fill small holes, I have been using white press on plastic plugs. They make them in all sizes, and although the color doesn't match exactly, it gives a more finished look than filling and sanding. I did this in a few areas, one being when removing the original swim ladder/grab rail. You can barely make it out in the second photo on my mod page in my sig. They might be available at Lowes or HD, but I usually buy mine at a local marine/hardware store.
 
Hi all ot my fellow 220 owners. I just replaced the 4 rear seat legs with the one way folding legs from Gerlick. They are a bit heaver duty and the bracket is all stainless steel. Had to be cut off a little which was easy with the dremmil tool with a metal cutting blade. I have 2 of the original legs still good and if anyone wants them you can have them for the shipping cost. Also for filling holes I used the Gel Coat Patch paste kit from Spectrum in Artic White. It matches perfectly and is available online from them, just do a search. I bought it at our local Sea Ray dealer for about 20.00. Anyone who wants the legs just email to collector21@cox.net.
Bill
 
My canvas guy is doing the mooring cover which will protect all of the cockpit and windshield glass. He's also doing the forward bimini and a half bimini for the rear which will start at the top of windshield to the stern. All the canvas will be Jocky Red from Sunbrella. He's going to charge me $1050 which is alot better than I expected.

He is going to build new aluminum bimini frames. The only thing is he is going to use the plastic fittings. I will replace the fittings with stainless in the future.

Do you think the pricing is good?
 
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Just an update on my bow roller installation. So far this season it has been working out great. For whatever reason, pulling up the anchor is easier. It may be because the roller keeps the line in one spot, and I can get good footing while pulling the rode in. I also like not worrying about scratching the bow rail with chain. The Delta anchor has been fantastic also (originally used a Danforth type). So far this season there hasn't been on time that it didn't hold on the first try. Absolutely no skimming along the lake bed. Freeing the anchor is harder, but switching from 3/8" line to 1/2" now gives me a better grip. I also use rubberized gloves, and that helps too. So, in the end, I don't think I'll be installing the windlass after all. It's really overkill for my boat.
 
Danny Troy said:
Just an update on my bow roller installation. So far this season it has been working out great. For whatever reason, pulling up the anchor is easier. It may be because the roller keeps the line in one spot, and I can get good footing while pulling the rode in. I also like not worrying about scratching the bow rail with chain. The Delta anchor has been fantastic also (originally used a Danforth type). So far this season there hasn't been on time that it didn't hold on the first try. Absolutely no skimming along the lake bed. Freeing the anchor is harder, but switching from 3/8" line to 1/2" now gives me a better grip. I also use rubberized gloves, and that helps too. So, in the end, I don't think I'll be installing the windlass after all. It's really overkill for my boat.
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Sounds great. I'm considering installing a bow roller too. Do you have some pics of your installation? My primary concern is to fasten the anchor when it's on the boat. I don't like the idea that it is loose and bumping up and down.
 
I'm on the boat right now, and luckily have a camera on board. Unfortunately the anchor is deployed, but you can see the bolt with locking pin that holds it in place. I had to void the warranty by drilling into the shank of the anchor, but I'm famous for voiding warranties. The Delta is very solidly built, and the drilled hole didn't affect it's strength by much. Of course, I'm on a lake, where things are not as critical. That said, I'd still do this mod on saltwater. The anchor stays firmly in place, and no bouncing around at all when hitting waves.
 
It looks like a nice product you have chosen. I have seen similar, but not with the bracket in the middle. The one you attach to the sloping part of the bow. Did you made some kind of adjustment to the original product, or does it come as is? And finaly, do you have a link to the seller?
 
If you don't have an anchor locker, you probably don't need the extra brace on the slanted part of the deck. For me, the roller was way too long, considering I wanted the Delta anchor to mount with it's tip no more than about 1/2" from the hull. I'm in a marina where bow rollers sometimes get clipped by boats trying to dock on windy days! So I wanted to keep it as short as possible. I cut off what I needed to make it fit exactly, and wound up using the piece I cut off to make the brace. It's all stainless steel, so it looks pretty good. The seller on eBay is halfpricemarine, and this is the link. He had more than 10 to sell, so he may still have some. At $69.99, it was a good deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400209533741
 
Hi guys,
wow you are very busy working on your boats. I still have not started with the stain in the cabin, but will start pretty soon. We work in the tourism business (motorcycle rentals in BC) and are very busy over the summer month. Hinkel likes to add some wire (Depthfinder) behind the starboard panel. Do you know how to take this panel off? Many thanks in advance, Jenny
 
there is some screws at the rear accessable from the rear cockpit and some nuts on the front arround the engine control that are accessable from the rear bunk room. you have to remove the narrow panel on the starboard side of the aft cabin celing and look up and you will see the retainer studs and nuts along with the wireing and cables that lead from the instrument panel to the engine compartment. If you just need to run wires you may not need to remove the panel, just the celing panel in the aft cabin.
hope this helps,
Bill
 
Hey everyone, I am getting ready to sell my 89 220 DA and was just wondering what some of you paid for yours. I have ac/heat pump, garmin 540 gps, electro flush head with 20 gallon tank, new canvas ( mooring cover, tall bimini with eisenglass and a back drop), new gauges, switches, breakers and dash panels, ac/dc fridge, water heater, no trailer and im in Toledo OH. It a great boat and we just got back from a 2 week vacation on it. Im just ready to move up to a much larger boat. We are looking at 340's
 
I paid 8k in the fall of 2009. I put at least 3k in improvements (swim platform, camper canvas, inverter, etc.). I like my 220 so much that I wouldn't take less than 16k for it, and even if someone waved that money in front of my face, I'd probably turn it down. It also depends on how the bad economy has hit your area. Where I have mine docked, it's bad, but not as bad as other areas of the country, so I could still get good money for it (and I don't have A/C and a water heater!), although mine came with a 1994 trailer.
 
Hows the carpet look? Time to go get it bound now that its trimmed...

IMG_2205.jpg
 
nwocouple2006 said:
Hey everyone, I am getting ready to sell my 89 220 DA and was just wondering what some of you paid for yours. I have ac/heat pump, garmin 540 gps, electro flush head with 20 gallon tank, new canvas ( mooring cover, tall bimini with eisenglass and a back drop), new gauges, switches, breakers and dash panels, ac/dc fridge, water heater, no trailer and im in Toledo OH. It a great boat and we just got back from a 2 week vacation on it. Im just ready to move up to a much larger boat. We are looking at 340's
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I paid $4500 for mine in Oct 2009. Good shape but no extras with it. Bunk trailer with surge brakes. I have since seen them listed between $7 and 8.5k.
 
I constantly drain what seems like gallone of water from the transom drain Agee each retrieval. I fish offshore with my 220 which includes trolling. The rub rails have been sealed. I found water on the shelf where the battened sit toward the Back oppsite of water tank while in the drink. I'm thinking the water may be leaking in through the drain thruhull. Is this common? I'm open to suggestions and ideas. Any one know what size the plastic thruhull drains are on the transom are? Where can I Pick up a quality stainless steel set? Thanks!!!!
 
LmannyR said:
I constantly drain what seems like gallone of water from the transom drain Agee each retrieval. I fish offshore with my 220 which includes trolling. The rub rails have been sealed. I found water on the shelf where the battened sit toward the Back oppsite of water tank while in the drink. I'm thinking the water may be leaking in through the drain thruhull. Is this common? I'm open to suggestions and ideas. Any one know what size the plastic thruhull drains are on the transom are? Where can I Pick up a quality stainless steel set? Thanks!!!!
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I have seen water in that same location after a heavy rain. Traced it back to the bilge vents.
 
Hi,

I'm looking at getting a 220da with the 4.3l v6 alpha one gen two drive what's the mpg on this boat with this engine?
 
Theres no way that I'm getting GALLONS of water in the bilge from the bilge vents. I might get a sprinkle here and there or if it rains really hard with some horizontal rain.
 
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