2009 310 Sundancer engine hatch wont open

[Blueone]

I had this problem when one of my actuators broke. My engine cover is huge and thought I wouldn't be able to lift it but I was surprised how easy it was. I was lucky enough that I have a side hatch to remove by hand to give me access to grab the main hatch with my hands. I held it up with a 2x4...what you should bring is a saw so you can cut the 2x4 to the right length so you can hook the actuators back up

 

[Korkie]

Thanks

 

[wyrman]

I like the switch idea. You could even mount it in the bilge, next to one of the access holes.

 

[Brando99]

I like the switch idea. You could even mount it in the bilge, next to one of the access holes.

So I got the hatch open(not easy) and I will post some pictures after I fix the next problem it seems that the “up” relay on the aft EIM is bad. Does anyone know how to remove it? Is it soldered to the board? Here are a few pictures of it. It’s the one on the bottom right. Model # on the EIM is: #1873190, AFT EIM unit. I can't find on online. Any assistance would be apreciated.

 

[Brando99]

View attachment 83292

So I got the hatch open(not easy) and I will post some pictures after I fix the next problem it seems that the “up” relay on the aft EIM is bad. Does anyone know how to remove it? Is it soldered to the board? Hers a few pictures of it. It’s the one on the bottom right

Well I got the hatch open. Was not easy. Took 4 guys to make it happen. Good thing my boat is kept on a lift. We put a dock line through a slot in the roof over my boat. Raised the boat all the way up. Next we took a 4' 2x4 and put an I bolt through the middle of the 2x4. Next we put the 2x4 through hole in the hatch floor where the table sits. Once the rope was secure we started to slowly lower the lift. the hatch got up about 2 " and the eye bolt broke good thing that's all that broke. We put a bigger eye bolt in and were able to complete the mission!! I wish I could rotate the pictures. View attachment 83292

 

[JimG]

So I got the hatch open(not easy) and I will post some pictures after I fix the next problem it seems that the “up” relay on the aft EIM is bad. Does anyone know how to remove it? Is it soldered to the board? Here are a few pictures of it. It’s the one on the bottom right. Model # on the EIM is: #1873190, AFT EIM unit. I can't find on online. Any assistance would be apreciated.

Those relays are soldered to the board. What makes you think it's bad? Can you hear the relay click? Could be something wrong with the relay control circuit.

 

[Brando99]

View attachment 83292
Well I got the hatch open. Was not easy. Took 4 guys to make it happen. Good thing my boat is kept on a lift. We put a dock line through a slot in the roof over my boat. Raised the boat all the way up. Next we took a 4' 2x4 and put an I bolt through the middle of the 2x4. Next we put the 2x4 through hole in the hatch floor where the table sits. Once the rope was secure we started to slowly lower the lift. the hatch got up about 2 " and the eye bolt broke good thing that's all that broke. We put a bigger eye bolt in and were able to complete the mission!! I wish I could rotate the pictures. View attachment 83292 View attachment 83299 View attachment 83300 View attachment 83293 View attachment 83293 View attachment 83294 View attachment 83295 View attachment 83296 View attachment 83297 View attachment 83298

Next question. Does anyone have

Those relays are soldered to the board. What makes you think it's bad? Can you hear the relay click? Could be something wrong with the relay control circuit.

Can hear it click. Down will work, just not up. A mechanic at our lake seems to think its the relay. I have a new one coming this week and a friend of mine will take care of the de-solder and put the new one on the board. I would have considered a new EIM but I cant find one that matches the part number. If the new relay doesn't work, i'll probably wire in a rocker switch for the hatch.

 

[stephenm27]

Brando99-

From one of your ER pics (6th pic overall), it appears you have an access port in the forward seating of the hatch? That wouldn't have helped you in this case, but it's critical when the breakers for the actuators are tripped (in the EIM you're working on). I don't have that port and have wondered how to reach the breakers from the table-base hole.

 

[Boater71]

I'm having the issue and having trouble following the conversation here. after winterization, i tried to open the hatch by plugging in to the cigarette lighter at the helm. I might have crossed the polarity initially. Nothing happened and could not open. I corrected the polarity and still nothing. I know about the 2 pins, I pulled the one in the center, but could not pull the one in the aft (hard to pull with the angle). What are my options? how did you get the 2x4 in there and pull from it? is there a fuse could have burned by the cross polarity? if it was, wouldn't that be stopped by the fuse with the adapter. Just trying to figure out the best way to do it.

 

[stephenm27]

how did you get the 2x4 in there and pull from it? is there a fuse could have burned by the cross polarity? if it was, wouldn't that be stopped by the fuse with the adapter. Just trying to figure out the best way to do it.

The 2x4 is inserted in the hole left by removing the table base (screwed to the cockpit floor/hatch). He then lifted the hatch using an overhead structure (dock) attached to the 2x4. If you don't have something substantial overhead to lift from, this approach won't help you.

If you have an access port in the forward, rear-facing seat storage area, you may be able to reach the breaker on the EIM. My 310 does not have this access port, only the two for accessing the pins at the actuators. Depending on your tools and skillset, adding this port is not a bad idea for this very situation, but I'm not certain I would attempt to do it under your current circumstances.

 

[Boater71]

The 2x4 is inserted in the hole left by removing the table base (screwed to the cockpit floor/hatch). He then lifted the hatch using an overhead structure (dock) attached to the 2x4. If you don't have something substantial overhead to lift from, this approach won't help you.

I don't have a structure above, so none starter.

If you have an access port in the forward, rear-facing seat storage area, you may be able to reach the breaker on the EIM. My 310 does not have this access port, only the two for accessing the pins at the actuators. Depending on your tools and skillset, adding this port is not a bad idea for this very situation, but I'm not certain I would attempt to do it under your current circumstances.

I can make a whole under seat behind the helm seats to gain access to the EIM panel, where exactly would i make it and how big to that i can reach the EIM panel (do you have a picture from Above)?

Also, since I'm using the cigarette lighter, i'm trying to see a wiring diagram to troubleshoot the connect? Best i found is that its connected to bilge pump? Any test i can do to see if it a fuse issue?

 

[stephenm27]

I can make a whole under seat behind the helm seats to gain access to the EIM panel, where exactly would i make it and how big to that i can reach the EIM panel (do you have a picture from Above)?

Also, since I'm using the cigarette lighter, i'm trying to see a wiring diagram to troubleshoot the connect? Best i found is that its connected to bilge pump? Any test i can do to see if it a fuse issue?

I don't have a picture of an access port in the seating storage---the original thread poster did and I happen to notice it in one of his pictures posted earlier in this thread. As a result, I can't tell you specifically where to cut a large (4" diam) hole that would work in your boat. For safety, it's something you really need to be able to measure and view from both sides of the hatch to know where to place it.

The actuators are on 2 resettable breakers on the EIM in the engine room. They are of the push-to-reset type. I don't know if polarity reversal would have caused one/both of them to trip. Many times there is a fuse in a 12V cigarette male plug (unscrew it to access). I would verify it wasn't blown, just in case. I'd also verify the 12v breakers under the helm seat at the companionway to ensure nothing has been tripped there.

Next, I would probably look toward being able to physically lift the hatch by some means. There are a number of failure scenarios (actuator failure, batteries dead, breaker tripped) that can put you in this situation and only one of the (battery dead) can be resolved using the 12v adapter.

 

[Boater71]

The actuators are on 2 resettable breakers on the EIM in the engine room. They are of the push-to-reset type. I don't know if polarity reversal would have caused one/both of them to trip. Many times there is a fuse in a 12V cigarette male plug (unscrew it to access). I would verify it wasn't blown, just in case. I'd also verify the 12v breakers under the helm seat at the companionway to ensure nothing has been tripped there.

Next, I would probably look toward being able to physically lift the hatch by some means. There are a number of failure scenarios (actuator failure, batteries dead, breaker tripped) that can put you in this situation and only one of the (battery dead) can be resolved using the 12v adapter.

I did NOT turn on any breakers for this, maybe that is my issue? As there are none mentioned having hatch on them.

 

[stephenm27]

I did NOT turn on any breakers for this, maybe that is my issue? As there are none mentioned having hatch on them.

There are no breakers to turn on manually for the actuators...only if they trip, they have to be reset (depressed by hand).

 

[Boater71]

There are no breakers to turn on manually for the actuators...only if they trip, they have to be reset (depressed by hand).

I have isolated to the issue to being a fuse issue in the dc adapter. Took the fuse with me but lost it in the way. Anyone has the part number or fuse specs?

 

[Boater71]

I used. 14 amp fuse and I hear a beab every time I press up. Down works but not up. Wondering if it’s a relay or fuse size issue.

 

[Brando99]

I used. 14 amp fuse and I hear a beab every time I press up. Down works but not up. Wondering if it’s a relay or fuse size issue.

I had the original problem. I had to wire a momentary switch for the hatch. I replaced both relays in the EIM but still had the same issue. Only down worked. I had to de-solder the circuit board to remove the relays. Was not too bad but took a while due to the board having a coating on it. I wish I could be more help with your issue.

 

[Boater71]

I had the original problem. I had to wire a momentary switch for the hatch. I replaced both relays in the EIM but still had the same issue. Only down worked. I had to de-solder the circuit board to remove the relays. Was not too bad but took a while due to the board having a coating on it. I wish I could be more help with your issue.

Thanks. Can you send me the picture where you have the access to the EIM from the storage area under the seat facing back? The one behind the helm?

 

[Brando99]

Thanks. Can you send me the picture where you have the access to the EIM from the storage area under the seat facing back? The one behind the helm?

The hatch breaker is bottom right if you can get to it.

 

[Boater71]

Thanks for sharing the photo.

so I got a bunch of 14 amp fuses, each would lift the hatch by about a 1/2” to an inch and then stop (burnt fuse). Which means I’m using the wrong fuse type. Anyone have the dc power adapter whom can share the fuse amps or part number?