1994 330 Sundancer interior makeover

NoThanksDad

New Member
Jun 21, 2009
314
Audubon, PA
Boat Info
330 Sundancer 1994
Engines
twin 5.7L Mercruiser w/ Alpha I drives
Thanks to many of you on this forum, I've decided to tackle this project on my own. :smt021

My wife and I have owned this boat for a few years now and have had a great time with her despite the "lovely" early 90's decor. While I'm sure the blue splash pattern that we've all seen was attractive to someone back then, it really gets on our nerves (not to mention - it's 16 years old). So for starters, we've decided to completely replace ALL the carpeting, completely re-upholster all the cushions, and lay a vinyl floor (wood look). While this project is still underway, I thought I would start this thread now that I've got much of the prep work done. While our boat currently sits in it's slip 1:45min away, I hope to have this project completed by the 2nd week in May.:lol:

I'll try the best I can to keep this logical in progression so anyone crazy enough to tackle this size job as their "first" can get a glimps into what they're in for...

A few quick facts about the floor. I chose to go with a 100% semi-rigid vinyl product that comes in planks like hard wood, and looks just the same. The flooring is called Dura Plank and was recommended to be by a friend that owns a flooring store. It's sort of a floating floor in the sense that you don't glue it to the deck directly. There is an underlayment (linoleum like) that you cut to fit (make a template - it's much easier that way). The underlayment simply gets rolled out onto the floor (no glue/no staples). You then apply the DuraCeramic DS100 adhesive directly to the underlayment and then put the pre-fit vinyl planks on the semi-dry adhesive. Once completely dry, the floor basically becomes one big piece. I chose to go in this direction to minimize moisture worries, and b/c it's not glued or nailed directly to the deck...I can always pull it up later and go in a different direction if I don't like how it performs.

Pre-work Picture taken from the steps looking forward
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Pre-work Picture taken forward looking aft
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Pre-work V-Berth
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So we began by tearing out the old carpet. I read through MANY of the threads on this site prior to this step and feel VERY FORTUNATE that the original glue guy sniffed more of the marine adhesive than he actually used on the floor. The floor came up quite easily with the help of a Dremel Multi-max tool using a rigid scraper blade. The real PIA was the incredible number of staples used...there had to be millions. (note to anyone trying this - have a good pair of pliers handy)

Picture of the carpet removal process - there was carpeting over all the storeage areas you see with a ton of staples on the under side.
NewCarpet-Day2005.jpg

NewCarpet-Day2006.jpg

NewCarpet-Day2013.jpg


Once the carpet came up and everything got cleaned I noticed a good amount of rippling along the edges where the fiberglass needed leveling before any flooring could be installed. The picture below is one of those areas, although the picture really doesn't show the problem very well. The area to the right of the table base plate all along the edge of the bench seat area had a pretty significant valley prior to it angling up on the approx. 40 degree angle you see in the pic. You'll see the patched area in a later photo.
NewFlooringDay3002.jpg


So the next step was to level out the areas that needed leveling, and I got a "quick drying" product from a friend of mine that owns a flooring store. Of course I can't think of the name right now so if anyone cares, send me a message and I'll ask him what I put down. After taking care of all the leveling areas I layed down uncut pieces of flooring to show the admiral what the finished product will look like. I went home for the day and returned again to begin the dry fitting of the flooring.
NewFlooringDay3005.jpg

You can see the patch to the left in front of the galley area, in front of the entrance to the head, as well as the area I spoke about earlier at the base of the bench seat (the table base has been removed and will be re-installed over the finished floor.
NewFlooringDay3006.jpg

NewFlooringDay3009.jpg


I didn't have much time on day three so I just made a template out of newspaper and some packing tape - I transferred the outline to the underlayment and cut it to fit. (actually worked out fairly well.) I then began dry fitting the floor which was fairly easy. The Dura Plank floor is a score and snap product that was surprisingly easy to work with. Below are a few pictures of the dry fit over the underlayment.
NewFlooringDay3010.jpg

NewFlooringDay3013.jpg

The plan is to take another vacation day this Thursday, and go glue the floor in place...more pic and info to follow. I think the carpeting we selected should be in the following week and my wife and I have begun the process of re-appolstering the cushions at home (pics of that process to follow as well)

Joe
 
Looking good. Can't wait to see more pics.
 
I have a buddy of mine that just did the SAME thing to his boat. Same exact boat.:smt038
 
Wow! Looking good!! I'd love to do that!
 
sweet, when u finish, stop on down and do mine too :)
 
Am interested in the leveling "quick drying" product you mentioned. Think the admiral is almost afraid to tackle ,,,, seems she has forgotten the "he can do anything" mentality she had 30 yrs ago... :huh:

I think between the two of us we can get the job done...

Good luck with yours, and looking forward to more pics and notes of progress.
 
Thanks to all that replied...I should have an update on Friday.

Texun, I believe the quick dry product I used on the floor was called UltraFlex RS. It does set up rather quickly.
 
Funny you should ask about the hatches, as this has been a bit of an issue. The existing hatches (as you can see from the early photos) are covered with carpet. Carpeting also wrapped into the hole over the lip and stapled on the underside of the deck. As you can imagine, as a result of all this material, the actual size of the hatch is considerably smaller than the hole (to accommodate the carpeting material).

The plan I've come up with for the moment (all looks good on paper) for the two floor hatches is to lay out the floor exactly as you see it - with the hatch and hole exposed. I then plan to create a "perfect fit" picture frame of the opening using "T-molding" that are comparable to the flooring. I will then make a panel to insert into the back of the "picture frame" and glue it in place (frame to panel). I will then try to determine how much space (if any) there is between the existing hatch (in place) and the new picture frame hatch (placed over top). If there is a gap (that would create bounce over the hatch), I will put layers of the "sub-floor" material i mentioned earlier until the area is solid. I don't anticipate needing any more than two or there pieces of material if any. I will be sure to take better pictures of this process as I'm not sure this explanation is very clear.



Hey Joe, nice project, what's the plan for the floor hatch?
 
Joe, that is an incredibly ambitious job! I'm looking forward to following your thread as you progress.

You know, sometimes I forget just how pretty that blue splash was! :smt101
 
I was also thinking about hardwooding (is that a word?) my 330. I was thinking if I made the hatch openings in the new hardwood about 1/2" larger than the underlying hole in the deck base, then I could make a hatch cover that fit right out to the edge of the hardwood and it would rest on the 1/2" ledge all the way around. I would think this would work if the hatch was made of flooring epoxied to a ply base one inch smaller all around so it fits in the other.
 
Floor Installation Complete (minus the hatches).

I went out to the boat again yesterday, made a few minor adjustments to the layout and actually got the floor installation completed.

Between work and little league, it will be a few weekends before I can get down the the boat again, but that trip will be dedicated to installing the new carpeting and trying to figure out how to take off some of the bolsters I haven't been able to remove yet. Sure wish the boat was closer to home so I could cut out after work and put an hour or two here or there.

View from the steps entering the cabin
NewFlooringDay4001.jpg


View standing aft - looking forward
NewFlooringDay4003.jpg

NewFlooringDay4006.jpg


View standing forward - looking aft
NewFlooringDay4004.jpg


I picked up the T-molding (unfinished) to out line the two hatches, and cut them to fit the opening. In hindsight I think I'm going to take a page from Creekwood's idea book, and simply make a new custom hatch that will fit the opening. I dry fit the moldings as seen below and took a depth measurement and plan to complete the build at home where I have access to "all" my tools. The pieces you see in the pics below are not secured to each other yet (just sitting in the openings)

NewFloatingFloorDay4iphone001.jpg

NewFloatingFloorDay4iphone002.jpg

NewFloatingFloorDay4iphone003.jpg
 
Lookin' great, Joe. Once you get that new carpeting in there, it's going to look like a whole new boat... and then again with the new upholstery.

Bolster removal: If you haven't already checked, Sea Ray likes to hide screws in between pleats of the fabric. Sometimes there is a "band" of fabric covering the pleat that you just move out of the way.
 
Thanks Dennis,
Jenn and I are really looking forward to completing this makeover. We love this boat, and she's been really good to us over the years, she deserves a little TLC. There was another post I remember reading recently that asked when is enough - and why put money into an old boat....For us, we'd love a new boat, but it's not in the cards right now. This boat has "good bones", and it's paid for :smt038. Not to mention the pride we'll have in being able to tell folks that "we did it ourselves". (Tremendous pride in completing a project like this)

I've found most of the screws I need, either between pleats, inside cabinets, etc... the one I'm really struggling with is pictured below. It's the one that acts as the front border for the v-berth. There were three large screws (w/brackets) on the underside, but even with them removed, it's still attached on the starboard side near the hanging locker. I haven't give this my total effort thus far, as the floor has been taking priority lately. This will become a focus very soon however... I'll let you know who wins:smt021

God, I really have learned to hate that splatter blue....

DSCF8316.jpg

NewCarpet-Day2006.jpg


Lookin' great, Joe. Once you get that new carpeting in there, it's going to look like a whole new boat... and then again with the new upholstery.

Bolster removal: If you haven't already checked, Sea Ray likes to hide screws in between pleats of the fabric. Sometimes there is a "band" of fabric covering the pleat that you just move out of the way.
 
Yeah, no pleats there... shucks! Maybe through the access hole underneath it (is that your A/C? - can you fit past it?) or... do you have an access under the mattress? Like you said, I'm sure once you look at it a little closer you'll figure it out.

Be careful when you take the "backrest" to the v-berth out. If it's like mine, it all comes out in one piece. Don't bend it too much.
 
Thanks for the heads up. If it's one piece like yours, it may be best to just measure and bring the new material to the boat and just do that one on board. Don't want to risk snapping the darn thing in transit.

Yeah, no pleats there... shucks! Maybe through the access hole underneath it (is that your A/C? - can you fit past it?) or... do you have an access under the mattress? Like you said, I'm sure once you look at it a little closer you'll figure it out.

Be careful when you take the "backrest" to the v-berth out. If it's like mine, it all comes out in one piece. Don't bend it too much.
 

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