1990/91 310 Sundancer vs 1992+ 330 Sundancer

[Mauler34Rod]

I had a 7.4L Bravo 1 in my 250, it is a great combination but I refused to by a boat with 2 outdrives. Last year we looked a EC with B1 drives and decided to not pull the trigger on because of the drives.

I replace the floor in my 250 with vinyl plank flooring left over from my living room. It came out OK i just snuggled with how to finish the edges. The 310 dance has 2 access hatches in floor, I cant remember if the EC has them as well. If so how did you deal with them and finishing edges. We looked a boat least year that has the floor done but he left the edges and it looked really unfinished. Below is what I did on my 250 Dancer.
View attachment 116392

Check out: https://www.jonnycorners.com/

 

[mr300z87]

Happy Holidays to all. I am off next week hoping to get over the boat for some photos and notes. Hopefully the weather cooperates.

 

[mr300z87]

Mauler thanks for the tip, that looks like it could work perfect. Got a few projects ahead of floor but will keep it in mind.

 

[zool]

Happy Holidays to all. I am off next week hoping to get over the boat for some photos and notes. Hopefully the weather cooperates.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you and yours Mike!

Looking forward to seeing some of ur boat photos.

 

[mr300z87]

Unfortunately the lovely weather we had here in NJ last week while I was off was terrible and I never made it to the boat. I want to do over. I did however do some trivial boat projects. One of the 3 upoustered trim pieced on the back side of the helm seat fell off when I touched it. This is why.

then I noticed the dark gray vinyl was cracked and ugly

So I removed it and sewed and new piece on both ends, I had some that was close enough left over from another project. The silver and blue were in good enough condition that I left it. There are 3 section of this on the helm and I am sure I will need to do the other 2 as well.

New plywood cut, I will use old timers wood preserver shared by Woodonglass on another boat forum. Once I get to the boat I can then mark and drill the holes for mounting it. There was not enough material left to mark then see above. Here is it is waiting for final assembly.

More to come

 

[mr300z87]

Another easy project I did last week was a repair of the Ritchie Compass that had lost all of it's fluid, I had done this same repair on my 250 Dancer which I documented on the other forum. (Not sure if I am allowed to post the links here so I will not) If anybody wants the link I would be happy to share it. After a quick call to Ritchie Navigation I ordered a seal kit and light kit for it. I am not sure how or why it happened, bit the diaphragm on the bottom completely melted into a puddle of black goo. After cleaning this mess and replacing the diaphragm and o-ring then filled it with odorless mineral spirits as recommended by Ritchie. Then I used a headlight polish kit on the globe, it looks almost new. This is a simple repair of a kind of obsolete equipment but it looks cool.

not sure why it side ways.
Lastly not really a project but Santa brouht me a new dual snorkel horn for Christmas to replay the non functioning one on the boat now. How did he know!!

Until next time!!

Have a safe and Happy 2022

Mike

 

[Rod Danko]

Which brand did Santa choose ?, I need to replace mine but don't have any experience with the different brands and models available. Thanks !!

 

[mr300z87]

Not sure it, came from Amazon. I refused to pay $120+ for the ones listed on marine parts web sites. I used a similar one on my 250 Dancer about 4-5 years ago and was still working when I sold the boat a couple months ago.

 

[Rod Danko]

Thanks for the info

 

[mr300z87]

Nothing to exciting here except 20degrees outside or rain/snow. I have started ordering maintenance items like anodes. Which I found there is a shortage of aluminum versions I need. Bought the last one of the large hull anode from amazon and they had low stock on trim tabs anodes. I did find a website specializing in anodes and ordered the 2 for the prop shafts, did not see any supply issues there. BTW Zool they are 1 1/4 diameter.
As soon as I get a break in the weather I will be starting on the exhaust. I hope there are no supply issues with them.

I was at the boat on Saturday morning it was about 28 degrees outside (that was the high for the day), however it was a crystal blue day. The water in in the marina was frozen.

Spring can't get here soon enough!!

 

[mr300z87]

So I have been to the boat at least a couple of hour each weekend for the last month. It has still been cold but not too bad in the green house of shrink wrap, so I started fixing some minor things so they don't make me crazy. Unfortunately every time I have been there I have found something else broken. Yesterday I found one of my bilge blower makes loud screeching noise, whats left of the hoses is falling apart, and they are near impossible to get to. Both 5 amp blower fuses broken off in the dash and its got the wrong switch. Don't get me started on the Carling technologies lighted tip toggles that can be had in any color but green!!! I have a couple of bad ones that need replacing. Next up was a test of the bilge pump, it did not come on with the switch and I could not reach the float switch to test it. I was told when I bought the boat that the High Level pump float switch had failed and the pump was running continuously, so the mechanic at the marina where the boat was just cut the wires. It not bad enough the bilge blowers are tough to get the bilge pumps are even worse. I am planing exhaust on the starboard engine before launch so with that out of the way it might be easier to access the blowers and bilge pumps.

I am keeping optimistic that all will be ready for a mid - late May launch, this weeks weather is supposed to be nice so I hope to get there to find more broken stuff.

One of the most upsetting things I notice a few weeks ago was the stains on the headliner in the V berth shown in the photos below

These were not there at time of purchase in Nov, from what I can tell the bow rail stanchion is above the round cover show to the right of the stain in the above photo, when I removed the cover there was nasty brown water leaking from the stanchion possibly the change of pitch of the boat on land caused the water to settle at the lowest point. As soon as the shrink wrap come off my wife and I remove the bolts and re seal with some 5200. I had to do this on our previous Dancer 250. Then we plan to rent a steam cleaner to do the entire headliner.

Zool, how is yours coming along. When do you plan to launch. We should exchange emails or something and try and meet up on the water. That is if we can afford gas.

Until next time

Mike

 

[zool]

Mike, try a 50/50 mix of bleach and water for the stains, you just spray it on and let it dry. Ive been fixing leaks and cleaning up the hull liner that way with great results. Plus the bleach keeps any mold from coming back.

Im just finishing up my cabin remodel, the link is in my sig.

Ill get ahold of you after I get launched and settled in, maybe we will cross paths.

 

[mr300z87]

Thanks for the tip Zool, and I will check your l link. I have been chippy away a small stuff since the weather has been such a tease. While at the boat I ran into the marina owner, because of where my boat is he wants to launch it mid April. I am so not ready. I have to replace the exhaust on the starboard engine before launch, so today I am headed there to start the tear down so I can order parts tomorrow. I hope no broken exhaust bolts as that would suck. Actually as you probably know access is the biggest issue. I'll post here either later this evening or tomorrow with an exhaust update.

 

[mr300z87]

Zool, As always nice work.

So here is how the exhaust went. We are removing the crusty old exhaust, started on starboard motor outer side all came apart with no problem. Center side did not go as well but all in all could be worse. Elbow came off no problem and 7 of the 8 manifold bolts are out. Number 8 bold which in the middle has a corroded away head and I can't even get a 1/2 in socket to bite its a 9/16. I can not see it at all but I think I can get in there with a small cut off wheel to cut the head off. Any recommendations, I am sure I'm not the first to experience this. Was thinking a small mirror would help if slid under the manifolds.

While I was down there after a bunch of badwords I was able to break loose 5 of 8 on port side center manifold. I figure I will mess with those after getting the other one off. The will give me tons more room.

Also while off I will tackle the raw water pump on the starboard engine, port was done late last season I have receipt from previous owner. Still can't even see it. Will it show it self with manifold off. Has anybody changed one on an inboard V drive Dancer

Did not take any pics today worked to hard, now everything hurts I am not 35 anymore. My plan is to use all mercruiser parts sourced locally.

This is where I need to get and cut off bolt heads off right in the middle . Taking tomorrow off to try and deal with it.

 

[FINAL DRAW]

We have '91 310 Dancer same. To change impellers this is my method: remove 4 pump pulley bolts slide off with belt. Do not remove hoses at pump. Remove outlet hose at first oil cooler. There probably a support hanger on this hose under bell housing. Remove it. Remove inlet hose at strainer. Remove the bolts that hold pump in bracket. Now wiggle complete pump with hoses rearward under engine and out. Take it to your bench and change impeller. Congratulate yourself with a beer! Trying to remove hoses at pump may be possible with manifolds removed but would probably make my method even easier.

 

[mr300z87]

Thanks Final Draw. I was think in along that line actually have the exhaust hoses off helps with access a lot. They came off easy from the elbow. I love this boat but so far the 7.4L in my 250 Dancer was easy compared with this one. I will keep posting as things move forward.

 

[mr300z87]

Well I had some success yesterday although not exactly what I planned. Although I was unable to remove the bolt I am struggling with I did remove the Port engine center manifold which gives me much more room to work.

Next up to try are stripped bolt head sockets, I just don't want to snap it off, but as you can see the bolts I threaded back in on the port head are nice a clean. Unfortunately there are 2 other stripped bolts on the outer manifold of port engine but they are slightly more accessible to get at with the cut off wheel. I was able to get my head and hands down between the engines if I need to cut. I did speak to the marina yesterday and my last resort if needed I will be calling them to deal with last 3 bolts. All in all 3 out of 32 is not a bad ratio. Their mechanic has to be a lot younger then I AM.

The good news is I have all the parts to put it back together except for new plugs which I am thinking would be good to do now with easy access. BTW that cookie tray fits perfectly between the engines to catch tools and bolts that might get dropped into the abyss.

 

[mr300z87]

New plugs ordered, new grade 8 bolts arrived today. Tomorrow I will head to the boat and give these a try.

I think they will bite to stripped bolt head, just need to be careful not to break it off in the head, none broke so far so I am hopeful. After the other center manifold is off I will tackle the raw water pump before exhaust reassembly. I may get both sides done on the starboard engine and only the center manifold on port engine for now depending on how the sockets work and do the last one after launch.

My previous boat being an IO i know it wasn't really feasible to do exhaust in the water, Is there a reason why I can't remove exhaust when this boat is in the water?

I will update again after tomorrow. Have a great weekend

 

[mr300z87]

SUCCESS!!!!! All bolts are either out or loose, I have not removed outer manifold on port motor yet but since all the bolts have been loosened that is an easy task to remove and replace. The fluted sockets worked great grabbing the stripped bolt heads.

Once I had both center manifold off I was able to remove the raw water pump for replacement. This was a joy, not sure how it could be done without removing the manifold. The only way to do this job was to disconnect the intake from the stainer and output hose from the trans/oil cooler and remove the pump with the hoses. I needed to stand between the engines to get at the bottom of the cooler to remove the hose.

I also chased center exhaust manifold threads on both engines with a tap to make sure the new bolts go in good. I'll do the outer ones before install. Then I said I'm tired and decided to head home. Tomorrow I will do the water pump and start prepping the new manifolds and elbows on the workbench at home.

Any recommendations of what to use to clean 30 years of nasty from the bilge? Water should be on at the marina soon and I want to clean before re install.

Have a great rest of the weekend.

Mike

 

[Mauler34Rod]

SUCCESS!!!!! All bolts are either out or loose, I have not removed outer manifold on port motor yet but since all the bolts have been loosened that is an easy task to remove and replace. The fluted sockets worked great grabbing the stripped bolt heads.
View attachment 123224
Once I had both center manifold off I was able to remove the raw water pump for replacement. This was a joy, not sure how it could be done without removing the manifold. The only way to do this job was to disconnect the intake from the stainer and output hose from the trans/oil cooler and remove the pump with the hoses. I needed to stand between the engines to get at the bottom of the cooler to remove the hose.
View attachment 123226
I also chased center exhaust manifold threads on both engines with a tap to make sure the new bolts go in good. I'll do the outer ones before install. Then I said I'm tired and decided to head home. Tomorrow I will do the water pump and start prepping the new manifolds and elbows on the workbench at home.

Any recommendations of what to use to clean 30 years of nasty from the bilge? Water should be on at the marina soon and I want to clean before re install.

Have a great rest of the weekend.

Mike

Some use Dawn others I heard have used Simple Green. I think Dawn cuts through the grease and oil better. Use a brush and scrub throughly.