1990/91 310 Sundancer vs 1992+ 330 Sundancer

[Shaps]

Use this full strength and a good scrubbing brush
Spray Nine 26801 Heavy Duty Cleaner/Degreaser and Disinfectant -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LA7QOO8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FEJJS12S95YN8XR9PK98

 

[mr300z87]

Yesterday after work I ran to the boat to re-install the raw/sea water pump, while I was doing so I noticed the hose going from the circulating water pump to the heat exchanger was leaking AF. A quick seach on the internet reveals this hose and the following generation 7.4L hose is NLA. There was 1 NOS on ebay that I bought $125 and it is supposed to be here early next week. This will delay putting the new center manifolds on since I could never get to this hose if they were.
I am sure I am not the only one ever to need this hose. What have others done, there are a lot of 7.4L out there.

It is leaking right at the water pump I was thinking if i bought the lower radiator hose from a similar vintage Chevy 350 BB truck and I could splice together with a 1 1/2 in coupler and some clamps.

Nothing is easy when working on a 32 year old boat.

 

[zool]

Good to see youre making progress, no broken bolts is a win win already.

 

[FINAL DRAW]

Yesterday after work I ran to the boat to re-install the raw/sea water pump, while I was doing so I noticed the hose going from the circulating water pump to the heat exchanger was leaking AF. A quick seach on the internet reveals this hose and the following generation 7.4L hose is NLA. There was 1 NOS on ebay that I bought $125 and it is supposed to be here early next week. This will delay putting the new center manifolds on since I could never get to this hose if they were.
I am sure I am not the only one ever to need this hose. What have others done, there are a lot of 7.4L out there.

It is leaking right at the water pump I was thinking if i bought the lower radiator hose from a similar vintage Chevy 350 BB truck and I could splice together with a 1 1/2 in coupler and some clamps.

Nothing is easy when working on a 32 year old boat.

 

[FINAL DRAW]

I replaced ALL of the hoses on ours in 2016. Found some NLA back then. If you have a list of the mercruiser part # try Treasure Island Marine in Panama City, Fl.or Channel Island Marine in Goleta, Ca. I found some there.
Also if you have an old school well stocked auto parts store that will take you in back to match up a partial shape, you can splice. I used copper pipe and clamps to make joint. Glad I didn’t wait any longer. Good luck

 

[mr300z87]

Thank for the comments Final Draw, I ordered the only one I could find on ebay and it is supposed to be here tomorrow. I'll try the places you mentioned as I would like to have a spare for the port engine. This is now holding me up from reinstalling the exhaust.

My mistake was pulling the pump out with the bracket, which goes behind the circulating pump tube where the hose attaches. The sharp edge of the raw pump bracket must have nicked the hose. If I followed your instructions which I did not understand until I had the pump on my work bench. I thought how am I to hold the bolts and take off the nuts. As you know you cant even see the pump on these engines. Volvos front crank mounted pump seems like a much better way.

I think it would be easy to splice something together if need be and probably doesn't need to be molded. Reality is that it's just a lower radiator hose!!! That goes to a heat exchanger as opposed to a radiator.

 

[mr300z87]

The new hose arrived early in the week and I was able install it no issues. I then went to installed the first manifold only to realize I ordered the wrong length manifold bolts 1 1/2 instead of 1 1/4. A quick trip to lowes to buy the only 8 they had an manifold 1 of 4 is on. I was able to get an additional 25 grade 8 bolts at McMaster Carr which is local to me for $9.00. So then after a couple of nasty cold rainy April days in NJ the sun finally came out Friday and it was time for me to get to it. With the help of a friend and my wife the other 3 were completed yesterday. Only thing left to do is finish refilling the engine coolant and connecting the 2 center exhaust tubes to the elbows. Before I connect the exhaust I need to replace one of the blowers and install new blower tubing to properly vent bilge. This is planned for tomorrow.

Today my wife and I painted the bottom, we are getting close.

I know the water was turned on today so next weekend I will do an engine run and check for leaks. Just to make sure I'm doing right thing. I will take my garden hose to 1 1/4 barbed fitting adapter and connect it to the raw water intake hose. Turn on water and fire in the hole. I am used to an I/O with ear muffs on the drive.

Have a great night

 

[FINAL DRAW]

I’ve always been told not to put full water pressure into this closed system. When I ran out of water I made a pvc stand pipe that screwed into top of strainer and kept that full while running. Kinda messy and took another person.

 

[mr300z87]

Wednesday we had perfect 60 degrees, sunshine and a lite west wind for Launch and we successfully made the 5 mile ride up the Toms River to our slip. She fired right up and there were no leaks, next up is oil changes, bilge cleaning and an over all clean up of all the winter/exhaust change dirt. Here are some photos of the day.
On the transport

Leaving the winter storage marina, this was taken by one of the marina staff. Thanks Janine

At her slip at Spinnakers Cove, she is kinda lonely there are only a couple of boats in so far and most were in all winter.

 

[mr300z87]

Question, What is the correct fluid for the Hurth V-drive transmissions. MercCruiser manual #15 says dextron ll ATF. I can only find dextron lll locally. What do other use? How often does it need to be changed? I think I read somewhere not to use the newer dextron lV or V they may even be up to Vl.

 

[FINAL DRAW]

We’ always used Dextron 3.
26 years no issues. Get at quality automotive store. Ask them difference for your peace of mind.

 

[mr300z87]

Thanks Final Draw. I have no idea when was changed last so it's on my short list. I think I can just pump it out from either the dipstick tube or filter. How often do you change fluid and filters?

Today I made new rolers for the cabin entry. What was there was completely trashed. I will follow up with some photos later, but it's slides beautifully now. Lots more stuff to do. Tomorrow we have to help our daughter move so probably not to much boat work.

Have a great night

 

[mr300z87]

It's been a busy couple of weeks, but her are some photos of the parts used to repair the slides on cabin entry. It's made up of a 4mm bolt with a hex head that I ground flush to the bearing in the white roller which I think is 22 mm diameter and fit perfect into the tracks, then a spacer. I then used a jig of hard wood drilled on my drill press to drill strait/parallel hole to mount these in cabin sliding top. Then with some washers I bolt one of these at each corner. I decided to drill the holes a use bolts instead of screws is there were already a couple of striped out holes from prior repairs. Installed with a little grease it now slides like butter.

Not sure if this link will work but here is a short video of the sliding door after repair. It was a 2 hand job before
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7HXboe4YvBJLJRRb6
This is what was there or whats left of them.

 

[Motorvader]

Making your own jigs out of hardwood. Now there's an old school craftsman! Boat looks great in the water. Sea Ray's and Cruisers' were beautifully styled in late 80's and early 90's. I like the bow pulpits. My previous boat was an 88' Cruisers 3110 - very similar styling.

 

[mr300z87]

Motorvader, nice to see you here!! Got any pics of your new boat.

My jig was nothing special it consisted of a piece of hardwood with a the appropriate size hole drilled straight on a drill press then clamped to the sliding door to guild my hand drill. Learned for Norm on New Yankee Workshop LOL. Actually wood working is not one of my better skills, I am more of a mechanic, electrician than a carpenter.

I too like the style of the Sea Rays (we bought one) and Cruisers of the late 80s early 90s, one of the boat we looked at was an 88ish Cruiser Sea Devil. We also looked at and almost pulled the trigger on a Wellcraft 34 Grand Sport, it was a nice BIG boat, 12 ft beam, but decided the Sea Ray was more marketable when 2 ftitus sets in again. We like the mid 90s Sea Ray EC400.

At this point I have fresh oil in both engines, still working on some issues with the nav lights, a PO install a 4in tall 360 degree stern light on top of the windshield, then proceeded to put tape on it because it was blinging at the help??? I installed mast head light with both a front bulb for NAV and a 2nd bulb (making it all around) for anchor. Then I went to check the stern light on the transom which did not work. The contacts on the socket were corroded and as I took it apart to clean them, the plastic housing just fell apart in my hand. New one is in my truck waiting to be installed, then I will have all working nav lights as they are supposed to be. Next up is the new horn posted a while back, hopefully there is are wiring issues and it just a matter of remove and replace. We will be ready to go as soon as the weather is. Rained miserably all weekend.

I am also trying to figure out how to get the transducer wire up to the helm so I can install my Simrad chartplotter. I may have to remove the gauge cluster to access behind the dash in the location the exiting Garmin wires route. Thankfully I am in the IT cabling infrastructure business so I know wires. LOL While I am in there I will replace the flakey port engine tachometer with the SR tach I removed from our last boat during dash update. My plan is to update all the gauges to New Faria Chesapeake White faced. I already have one set I rescued from a derelict boat at my winter storage marina, they were free!!
This is our last boats dash, I should have swapped these out before I sold her. Oh Well!!

Now we just need the weather to warm the water up so it is not so cold out on the river/bay, the last time I was at the boat, water temp was 55 degrees and the price of fuel to come down. Have a great day.

 

[zool]

Motorvader, nice to see you here!! Got any pics of your new boat.

My jig was nothing special it consisted of a piece of hardwood with a the appropriate size hole drilled straight on a drill press then clamped to the sliding door to guild my hand drill. Learned for Norm on New Yankee Workshop LOL. Actually wood working is not one of my better skills, I am more of a mechanic, electrician than a carpenter.

I too like the style of the Sea Rays (we bought one) and Cruisers of the late 80s early 90s, one of the boat we looked at was an 88ish Cruiser Sea Devil. We also looked at and almost pulled the trigger on a Wellcraft 34 Grand Sport, it was a nice BIG boat, 12 ft beam, but decided the Sea Ray was more marketable when 2 ftitus sets in again. We like the mid 90s Sea Ray EC400.

At this point I have fresh oil in both engines, still working on some issues with the nav lights, a PO install a 4in tall 360 degree stern light on top of the windshield, then proceeded to put tape on it because it was blinging at the help??? I installed mast head light with both a front bulb for NAV and a 2nd bulb (making it all around) for anchor. Then I went to check the stern light on the transom which did not work. The contacts on the socket were corroded and as I took it apart to clean them, the plastic housing just fell apart in my hand. New one is in my truck waiting to be installed, then I will have all working nav lights as they are supposed to be. Next up is the new horn posted a while back, hopefully there is are wiring issues and it just a matter of remove and replace. We will be ready to go as soon as the weather is. Rained miserably all weekend.

I am also trying to figure out how to get the transducer wire up to the helm so I can install my Simrad chartplotter. I may have to remove the gauge cluster to access behind the dash in the location the exiting Garmin wires route. Thankfully I am in the IT cabling infrastructure business so I know wires. LOL While I am in there I will replace the flakey port engine tachometer with the SR tach I removed from our last boat during dash update. My plan is to update all the gauges to New Faria Chesapeake White faced. I already have one set I rescued from a derelict boat at my winter storage marina, they were free!!
This is our last boats dash, I should have swapped these out before I sold her. Oh Well!!
View attachment 126098
Now we just need the weather to warm the water up so it is not so cold out on the river/bay, the last time I was at the boat, water temp was 55 degrees and the price of fuel to come down. Have a great day.

I ran my transducer wire up from the bilge behind where the wet bar attaches, thru the area of existing harness to the dash. I had to remove the padded access cover under the steering area, but not the dash panels.

 

[mr300z87]

Thanks Zool, Headed there later today and will take a look, I already removed the panel under the wet bar but haven't take the one under the steering wheel yet. I just love laying under the dash! at least there is a bit more room than on the 250.

 

[Motorvader]

Motorvader, nice to see you here!! Got any pics of your new boat.

My jig was nothing special it consisted of a piece of hardwood with a the appropriate size hole drilled straight on a drill press then clamped to the sliding door to guild my hand drill. Learned for Norm on New Yankee Workshop LOL. Actually wood working is not one of my better skills, I am more of a mechanic, electrician than a carpenter.

I too like the style of the Sea Rays (we bought one) and Cruisers of the late 80s early 90s, one of the boat we looked at was an 88ish Cruiser Sea Devil. We also looked at and almost pulled the trigger on a Wellcraft 34 Grand Sport, it was a nice BIG boat, 12 ft beam, but decided the Sea Ray was more marketable when 2 ftitus sets in again. We like the mid 90s Sea Ray EC400.

At this point I have fresh oil in both engines, still working on some issues with the nav lights, a PO install a 4in tall 360 degree stern light on top of the windshield, then proceeded to put tape on it because it was blinging at the help??? I installed mast head light with both a front bulb for NAV and a 2nd bulb (making it all around) for anchor. Then I went to check the stern light on the transom which did not work. The contacts on the socket were corroded and as I took it apart to clean them, the plastic housing just fell apart in my hand. New one is in my truck waiting to be installed, then I will have all working nav lights as they are supposed to be. Next up is the new horn posted a while back, hopefully there is are wiring issues and it just a matter of remove and replace. We will be ready to go as soon as the weather is. Rained miserably all weekend.

I am also trying to figure out how to get the transducer wire up to the helm so I can install my Simrad chartplotter. I may have to remove the gauge cluster to access behind the dash in the location the exiting Garmin wires route. Thankfully I am in the IT cabling infrastructure business so I know wires. LOL While I am in there I will replace the flakey port engine tachometer with the SR tach I removed from our last boat during dash update. My plan is to update all the gauges to New Faria Chesapeake White faced. I already have one set I rescued from a derelict boat at my winter storage marina, they were free!!
This is our last boats dash, I should have swapped these out before I sold her. Oh Well!!
View attachment 126098
Now we just need the weather to warm the water up so it is not so cold out on the river/bay, the last time I was at the boat, water temp was 55 degrees and the price of fuel to come down. Have a great day.

Had the boat shrink wrapped for transport from SC to FL. During my search I saw multiple 310's with leaky hatches, leaky portlights and damp musty/molding cabins. The one I found in SC was kept inside on a rack the cabin was bone dry and clean. I decided to shrink wrap to keep it that way until my marina reseals all of the hatches and portlights. One boat I looked at needed a new interior and the cost to replace it was $12K. My "new to me" boat has sat for 6 weeks waiting for service but its now in the service building on a work rack and the shrink wrap is coming off next week. Have about 4 weeks worth of service work being done on the boat in total to get all maintenance issues caught up. It's been a long process but it will be worth the wait to have the boat in tip top shape. Getting all new risers, manifolds, sea pumps, shaft seals and rudder seals, changing all fluids and filters and servicing the genny. Will share some photos as things progress.

 

[Motorvader]

Had the boat shrink wrapped for transport from SC to FL. During my search I saw multiple 310's with leaky hatches, leaky portlights and damp musty/molding cabins. The one I found in SC was kept inside on a rack the cabin was bone dry and clean. I decided to shrink wrap to keep it that way until my marina reseals all of the hatches and portlights. One boat I looked at needed a new interior and the cost to replace it was $12K. My "new to me" boat has sat for 6 weeks waiting for service but its now in the service building on a work rack and the shrink wrap is coming off next week. Have about 4 weeks worth of service work being done on the boat in total to get all maintenance issues caught up. It's been a long process but it will be worth the wait to have the boat in tip top shape. Getting all new risers, manifolds, sea pumps, shaft seals and rudder seals, changing all fluids and filters and servicing the genny. Will share some photos as things progress. Also ordered full new black canvas package including Bimini, aft valance, curtains, mooring cover and camper top with new poles. She will look and run and new by end of June if all goes well.

 

[techmitch]

For the hatches and portlights to be rebed properly they need to be removed, just adding some sealant around them isn't good enough. Also, don't forget the bow rail stanchions and cleats, these are the cause of many leaks and are many times overlooked as a source of a leak and again, need to be removed to be rebed properly. good on you for going through the extra time and effort to keeping her dry.