1985 SRV270DA Restoration

Yeh - I tried to minimize the water puddles when reworking. They are OK as long as everything is sealed.

In my case the rot on both outer shelves actually came from underneath. The floatation foam was fully water logged (and heavy) so as you can see I cut everything out. Foam or not - the water needs to be able to drain.

Hopefully you have no suprises once you open thing up.

Good luck with your repair - post pics, Id like to see the work.
 
Very impressive and thanks for the documentation. Looking forward to more pics of the finish, out drives etc.

Now some questions:
If the windows were the source of the leak (in addition to swim platform), is there any rot in the rest of the hull? Not being familiar with the hull construction method, would that water have migrated to the lowest point ie transom and thus collected there or not? If so then those weep holes are a great idea for future insurance. How did you dry out the rest of the hull? I assume you've checked or is that another installment?

Again, great work and worthy of a "stickie".

Thanks.
 
When opening things up I found they did not use the best "long term" construction methods.
It was clear that water could work its way into just about anywhere with the use of butt joints, non-sealed access holes and bulkheads having an exposed top edge.
Some water getting is is probably OK as long as you have away for it to leave.

The window leaks are what helped cause the rot under the batteries and hot water heater.
These areas actually run to the front of the boat and appeared to be drier as I moved forward.
The structure seams solid but I do plan on cutting some access holes further forward in areas of the aft bunk room. I'll probably install those 8" plastic access covers and add weep holes just to be sure things are dry.

The transom rot was clearly caused by a seperate issue with the original swim platform attach points.

Again thanks for the compliments.
 
Update !

Found my notes on epoxy quantities needed and lay-down roller pics - added to top post.
 
Cool, keep 'em coming. Looks like you have a creative mind and the time & talent to apply it.

How about the interior?
 
Yep - Interior stuff too!
Heres a start with a sub floor added to the head. See top story.
 
Ignition, Entertainment System & Microwave Installation added to top story.
 
Last edited:
Great job, isn't fiberglass work fun. I like the way you tow your inflatable. Do you think it has to be centered with the big boat? I have a kicker motor on one side of my swim step. So I would have to be about 6 inches off center. thanks
 
Thanks - I agree, fiberglass work is great, especially when you have a cleared out area to work in.

I've been real happy with towing that way for about 20 of this season's hours and I don't think 6 inches off-center would hurt.
Ours is actually 4 inches off-center.

One issue with this setup is when moving along at a faster off-plane speed (1800 rpm). If going for a long period at a speed like that I would un-clip it and let it fall back. It just tends to wiggle around - nothing serious but over time I think it would be hard on the "D" rings. Slow No Wake speeds seem to be OK.

Also coming off-plane I back off steadily so there is not that big wave of water you get when just pulling off quickly.

You may be able to rig up a harness through the tow eyes to give it a short test before drilling holes. Just be sure to account for line stretch so it does not drop off the platform.

Best of luck !!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Top Story Update

Added:
Pic of angle cuts needed to remove the fuel tank
Pic and info on Electronics NEMA Network set-up
 
I have a very similar project to tackle. Thanks for all the great pics and details!
 
Thanks for sharing, the photos are great!I just purchased 84 27' with no motors/drives or cockpit seating...thanks for the ideas...
 
dtile said:
Thanks for sharing, the photos are great!I just purchased 84 27' with no motors/drives or cockpit seating...thanks for the ideas...
Click to expand...

that's a big job!! You may want to buy a couple used boats in rough shape but with good 4.3's and alpha one outdrives. Then rob the seats out of them.
 
dtile said:
Thanks for sharing, the photos are great!I just purchased 84 27' with no motors/drives or cockpit seating...thanks for the ideas...
Click to expand...
Sounds like a fun project - clean slate :thumbsup:

Off to Florida's pan handle to visit family for the holidays.
The plan is to wander around a bit through salvage yards and see what I can dig up.
I will post if anything is found that may assist you with the seating.
 
Great job KC - you are not afraid to tackle major renovation work.. the photo's and explainations are very helpful.
Jim
 
KC,

Thanks for documenting and sharing your transom rebuild, great job!

Quick question on your epoxy; was it blushing or non-blushing. If blushing, what was your process for removing the amine blush and how much of an issue was it?

In the past I have worked with West System epoxy and removed the amine with water as directed. Never had any issues with bonding but always wondered if I did a good enough job on the amine clean-up.

I have since switched to non-blushing epoxy and have used System Three and Progressive Polymers (a local supplier here in NH that mixes their own).

Thanks
Jeff
 
Jeff,

This is the first time I used this product, my supplier suggested it as a premium epoxy to use. I am assuming it is non-blushing as there was no clean-up required. Though I was told it was not needed I did do a very light sanding between coats.

Of all the projects tackled over the years I can say this has been the best epoxy / resin I have ever used. Enough working time, working temps were not too critical and Bonding was excellent on the pieces I tested. We've seen some very rough conditions and everything appears to be holding great on the boat.

This is a copy of what I used and posted:

E-cast CCA EPOXY RESIN w/ #305 HARDENER
(5) gallons total
From Eastpoint Fiberglass Sales near Detroit Mi
(586) 773-4237

My supplier packages their own Epoxies and shipping was reasonable. From what I saw though on the internet it appears the E-cast is available from other suppliers.

Hopefully this answers your question.

Thanks for the compliment :thumbsup:
 
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