1985 SRV270DA Restoration

You have done such a great job with your Ray... Congradulations on the beautiful boat you have... Keep the updates comming and hope we have a quick winter...
 
Another update:
Reworked the name on the boat with new graphics.
See the end of the top post for the update and pictures - Thanks !
 
Thanks for updating the post KC, it's great to see what other people have done with a similar boat to your own. I really like the microwave placement. Winter project for Berth Control... Check.:grin:
 
wow just found this thread! excellent work, thanks for sharing all the info!!! how bizarre that you had a Pachanga then moved to a 3 year older 270DA and here I am doing the exact same thing!:smt101 I only wish I could fit mine in my back yard to work on.
 
Your attention detail is awesome! The end product is a result of that. Beautiful.

Nik
 
wow just found this thread! excellent work, thanks for sharing all the info!!! how bizarre that you had a Pachanga then moved to a 3 year older 270DA and here I am doing the exact same thing!:smt101 I only wish I could fit mine in my back yard to work on.

That is a bit bizarre. We do miss the Pachanga at times, especially when I get that urge to race around. I can say switching to the 270DA was the best boating move we've made though, so much more practical and enjoyable. Enjoy it!
 
Another update - replaced some panels along the inside of the transom.
See end of top story.
 
Some may have already seen this post - I have added to this thread to keep all the restoration / maintenance work together:

New life in the shift cables

I had done this a few years ago and thought some may be able to put this to use on the older craft and save a few bucks.
After putting the new drives shifting was becoming an issue. To extend the life of the shift cables I did a bit of maintenance which can be done much easier than just replacing them. This also let me inspect them for wear in case they really did need replacing, which they did not. Shifting has never been smoother.
This is done on a pair of Mercruiser 185's (V6's) with Alpha drives and should be similiar to most cable set-ups. (Note the outdrives are already removed) The pictures will help in knowing what small parts are coming out.

cable1lg.jpg

Step 1 was to remove the shift cable attachment on the engine end.


cable2lg.jpg

Tape the barrel nut to keep your shift setting saved.


cable3lg.jpg

Remove the set screws that clamp to the shift cable.


cable4lg.jpg

This is what the end cable clamp assembly looks like when removed.




cable5lg.jpg

Cable end removed




cable6lg.jpg

Here is the outdrive end of the shift cable.
Check and /or replace the vertical shift shaft seals while apart.


cable7lg.jpg

Pull the shift cable out through the sleeve. Inspect for any broken strands. If there are any the cable assembly will need to be replaced.
If good; clean and apply a coat of thin marine lubricant.



cable8lg.jpg


Lubricate the cable sleeve.
This is an attachment I rigged up with a silicone sealant tip and hose clamp.
I clamped this to the engine end of the sleeve.​
Then I used my outdrive lubricant and pump to force lubricant through the sleeve.



cable9lg.jpg

I had someone watch the outdrive end to let me know when it started coming through.



cable10lg.jpg

The cleaned and greased shift cable was then fed back through the sleeve.
Last step was to put everything else back together.
You may also need to fine tune the shift linkage with everything moving smoother - I did.

Less expensive and much easier then replacing the cable assembly - 2 years since it was done and still shifting like new.
 
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Fantastic work with the boat! I'm going to be replacing my motor this fall and am wondering if I will have to do much of the same. Has anyone ever had to replace their stringers? I notice that my motor mount bolts are pulling out and the wood remnants on them feels wet. Is that something that you could put git rot in them or is replacement preferred?

Yup. I replaced my transom and stringers. Replacement is definitely preferred over a patch type job. The stringers are like your houses foundation. They have to be good.
 
Well just was bummed about my 79' 268 slightly rotted transom but after seeing your detailed progress and tips I have a better feel about doing it hands on. Thanks
 
Well just was bummed about my 79' 268 slightly rotted transom but after seeing your detailed progress and tips I have a better feel about doing it hands on. Thanks

I'm glad this helps and hope everything goes well with your project. Take and post pictures along the way so we can see your progress. :thumbsup:
 
KC, if possible can you post some detail pics of how the 1 piece jump seat bracket is fab'd? I'd like to duplicate it.
thanks,,,,,
 
KC, if possible can you post some detail pics of how the 1 piece jump seat bracket is fab'd? I'd like to duplicate it.
thanks,,,,,
Yep - I am right in the middle of putting everything back together with new shift cables, cut-out switches and bellows so I'll get them together in the next day or so.
The PO had the frame made, I'll point out a few mods I did and suggest some improvements with the post.
 
KC, if possible can you post some detail pics of how the 1 piece jump seat bracket is fab'd? I'd like to duplicate it.
thanks,,,,,

Not sure who the PO had fab this but it's a bit crude. I know it would look much better if the guys at the place I work for did it.
Get a good fab shop or experienced aluminum welder and it will look much cleaner.
All in all it holds up great after my few modifications and is very comfortable when running, sitting on it or kneeling facing forward.
Here are a bunch of pictures with a few notes:

st1.jpg


2" aluminum channel
attached with (2) screws into the helm base.
I chamfered and rounded the end of the channel here.
It was originally left a straight cut and is at just the right height to catch and scrape your calf when getting in and out of the helm area - all fixed.

st2.jpg


st3.jpg


st4.jpg


Track used for dive tanks - not needed if you don't scuba dive.

st5.jpg


Here you can see how it sits on the raised deck.
I would take the intermediate pieces of channel and run them forward to the next cross piece for added strength.
Notice jump seats and cooler have been removed. PO had left them there - why i don't know because there is much usable space there.

st6.jpg


Folding legs added for support and to allow access to hatches if needed.
People tend to step on the seat when they enter the boat and I was worried it would get bent by (with all due respect) a larger guest.
You can see a slight bend in the center from before I made ownership.
I also put a few holes in the seat bottom to allow air to escape when it was stepped on.

st7.jpg


I added this post in the center - people would lean on it and it wanted to bend.
Now it's a comfortable sturdy frame to lean and/or hang on to when kneeling on the seat.
I would have incorporated this into the welded frame.

st8.jpg


The eyes were there so straps can secure tanks. Makes for good Jig holders

st9.jpg


Gusseted sides - welding could be much cleaner.
 
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Hi KC, thanks for posting the pics, gives me some ideas I think my 268 helm bench on the back is dif. Looks like welds may have been done with a mig spool gun or a tig with no High Frequency.
I may down laod the pics if it will let me and zoom in. :)
 
Hi KC, thanks for posting the pics, gives me some ideas I think my 268 helm bench on the back is dif. Looks like welds may have been done with a mig spool gun or a tig with no High Frequency.
I may down laod the pics if it will let me and zoom in. :)

You're welcome.
My daughter just said, while we were out yesterday, that to give more room when we are not scuba diving I should make it so we can slide the cushion forward.
I'm currently looking into making a simple slide/track with small ball lock pins to mount the cushion on.
With the current overhang we can move it forward 6 inches which will really help.
Something else to consider if you are looking at the scuba diving part of it too, if not just secure the cushion further forward.
 

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