Wow that brings back memories... congrats on the new baby, wishing you the best with both of your new projects...
1980 Sea Ray 245 Sundancer
- Thread starter Rittles
- Start date
CV-23
Active Member
- Jun 25, 2010
- 1,891
- Boat Info
- 1990 270 Sundancer, 2003 Ford Excursion 4x4 Limited
- Engines
- 454 merCruiser w/Bravo 1
Well...your motor has center-bolt valve covers so the heads/motor is an 1988 or newer and roller cam! It is using the old log style exhaust manifolds which are fine. That's quite a project for your first boat but enjoy her!...Mike.
Rittles
New Member
Thanks!
Is that a good thing or a bad thing? And I do plan on upgrading to the "center style" manifolds when I replace them. When I was looking for the thermostat housing, I bought the 1978-1982 style as that is what was on it (I have the old one). Should I be using 88+ parts or 78-82 parts?
CV-23
Active Member
- Jun 25, 2010
- 1,891
- Boat Info
- 1990 270 Sundancer, 2003 Ford Excursion 4x4 Limited
- Engines
- 454 merCruiser w/Bravo 1
You will be able to mix and match a few items. The intake is a 1988 of newer because the bolt pattern/angle near the carb requires it. The Thermostat Housing could be the same....I'm not sure. Your distributor looks pre 1988 and may have points in it. I can not see an electronic control module in the picture. The center style exhaust manifolds are better so I would go that direction also but you may need a different thermostat housing. Mine has two large and four small outlets/inlets.....Mike.
Rick K
Member
Nice! These boats clean up really nice. I see you have the "hanging molding" on the left storage bin, just like I do! Must be a known issue LOL. Do all your cupboard (those door things that slide open and closed on a track - not sure what ya call 'em) pulls still work? A little silicone spray and they'll work like new. I like the bench on the starboard side. Makes it a little awkward to get down into the cabin, but then again, I'm 6'-2", and it's awkward getting down there anyway. At least you have a nice blue interior; mine's yucky brown. Good project, you're gonna love this boat!
Rittles
New Member
No, the slides do not work well. Maybe that's why the WD-40 is there. One of them was really tough to get open and I think it may be broken now. I'll give the silicone spray a try and see if they loosen up a bit. The bench is movable. It is on that side because I was opening up the engine hatch and needed it out of the way. The top flips open and it is also a storage bin. The covering is very brittle and falls apart when you touch it, so I'll have to get some new vinyl for it, if I decide I even want to keep it. The interior isn't too bad, only a few areas that need more than just a cleaning.
I've been trying to learn out as much as I can about the engine but not really sure where to start. It is sort of a Frankenstein of an engine, as it still has a lot of the parts from the original 1980 engine. The power steering pump is mounted low under the alternator, where the 82+ engines had them mounted above. As mentioned before, it uses the "log style" manifolds of the pre-82 engine. Anyone know of a site that specs out the differences between years?
Rick K
Member
My bench swings up and snaps outta the way. Like yours better though. Thinking about this more, the fact that the block is newer, and that all the old stuff is bolted up to it, leads me to think that you'll want to stick with the older parts. Hopefully, someone with way more knowledge will jump in here and offer up an opinion. Why they woulda robbed the thermostat housing off it is beyond me, but you should be able to find one easy enough.
Rittles
New Member
The old thermostat housing was very rusty, so they removed it and were planning on replacing it. They gave me the old one with the boat so I could order a new one. I did get a new one last week, which is the old style, same as what came off. Going on discussion here, I think the thermostat housing depends more on what type of manifolds you have, log vs center style. I still need to get all the hoses to connect it up though. I've seen the molded hoses ($$) but I am hoping to use straight hoses and bend as needed.
Rick K
Member
Page 7A-36 of Service Manual 3 will show you the correct routing of all the hoses. For thermostat gaskets, you're gonna want:
Upper: 27-48818 (quicksilver/merc)
Lower: 27-53045 (quicksilver/merc)
And for a thermostat, you're gonna want a 27-59137. These part numbers were probably upgraded/updated but any dealer/service center can look them up. You should be able to grab everything for less than 20 bucks.
Them hoses are pricey. As far as using straight hose, I don't know of any reason why you couldn't use it, other than it kinking. And you certainly don't want THAT to happen. Also have a look at the riser hoses which are the 3x4 hose between the exhaust riser and the exhaust pipe. Make sure there's no dry rot or cracks, etc. I blew one in the beginning of last season and it made a complete, oily, watery MESS outta my bilge.
Upper: 27-48818 (quicksilver/merc)
Lower: 27-53045 (quicksilver/merc)
And for a thermostat, you're gonna want a 27-59137. These part numbers were probably upgraded/updated but any dealer/service center can look them up. You should be able to grab everything for less than 20 bucks.
Them hoses are pricey. As far as using straight hose, I don't know of any reason why you couldn't use it, other than it kinking. And you certainly don't want THAT to happen. Also have a look at the riser hoses which are the 3x4 hose between the exhaust riser and the exhaust pipe. Make sure there's no dry rot or cracks, etc. I blew one in the beginning of last season and it made a complete, oily, watery MESS outta my bilge.
Rittles
New Member
West Marine has the thermostat kit with the gaskets for $19.99. I plan on picking it up as soon as I make it over there. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=50366&subdeptNum=50367&classNum=50368
I figure that I'll use the straight hoses for now and keep an eye on them. If I run into problems with them, I can always change them out pretty easy.
I see that "hump hose" on the West Marine site... Do you have to use the "hump hose"? Or can I just get some exhaust hose and replace it?
I figure that I'll use the straight hoses for now and keep an eye on them. If I run into problems with them, I can always change them out pretty easy.
I see that "hump hose" on the West Marine site... Do you have to use the "hump hose"? Or can I just get some exhaust hose and replace it?
Rick K
Member
You don't want a hump hose, you want what's on pg 663 of the catalog. They call it an exhaust connector. I call it a riser hose, some call it a exhaust bellows hose. I'll tell you though, the quality differene between Merc and Sierra are day and night. Like I said, I blew one last year, but replaced both. They only had 1 merc, and I took it, and the other was a sierra. The merc hose was much heavier and better quality than the sierra. West has 'em on the shelf, but I don't go there becasue for some reason, they feel the need to price themselves completely outta the market. I try and stick with Merc/Quicksilver or GLM parts whenever I can. Mallory comes in second. Without fail ALL parts in the outdrive are Mercruiser.
