$1400 to winterize?

[MonacoMike]

For my Monaco I pay $300 once a year to winterize and all annual service items including filters, oil etc. This does not include parts replacement. I asked for an estimate for the 279DA for "everything" it needs winterization and all the annual service. The estimate was $900. What I love most about this is for the above payment on the Monaco I get one free day to do anything I want. How much is that worth? Also every year I have done this the boat performs perfectly at spring startup. WOW!!! What is that worth?

I would not expect shop labor rates to be the same in all states. How long have you been a customer of the shop? These and more can have a significant bearing on price.

For those of you who have the time, place, and inclination to do all your own work, BRAVO!!! Please do not be judgmental of those who don't. There may be many reasons why one may not. Some may not have the physical ability, mechanical aptitude, or a place to perform such tasks. While others may be more efficient to do what they do best (making their living) and paying someone else to do what they do best. (efficiently maintaining and repairing boats)

Each time a project idea comes up I must evaluate the efficiency of doing it myself. What does it cost to be completed by the pros? How much time from my work, family, or other responsibilities? In a world with no time limits I would do it all but, sadly, we can’t. So when this subject comes up everyone’s time and level of interest has a different value to each.

MM

 

[ziekman@cox.net]

amen!

amen

 

[Presentation]

...Use stabilizer in your oil.... George

Hi George,

We are all here to learn so please help us.

Can you elaborate on your above recommendation to add stabilizer to the oil?

Actually I have several questions about your post but I’ll start with this one.

 

[Suthrn]

Does the Single Point Drain System really work in draining the seawater section of the motor and getting the water out of the system or is there more that needs to be done? I've read about draining the mufflers and what not. I can change the oil and fog the motor it's just this part I'm not 100% clear on. Do I put antifreeze in it or just drain it? I guess I don't see how I get the motor fogged and antifreeze into the system at the same time. It seems you either do one or the other. If I pump antifreeze into it and then fog it, I lose the af, if I fog it then do the af I lose the fog. Someone help me understand. Sorry. This is a closed cooling system. Thanks for any help.

 

[rcknecht]

Does the Single Point Drain System really work in draining the seawater section of the motor and getting the water out of the system or is there more that needs to be done? I've read about draining the mufflers and what not. I can change the oil and fog the motor it's just this part I'm not 100% clear on. Do I put antifreeze in it or just drain it? I guess I don't see how I get the motor fogged and antifreeze into the system at the same time. It seems you either do one or the other. If I pump antifreeze into it and then fog it, I lose the af, if I fog it then do the af I lose the fog. Someone help me understand. Sorry. This is a closed cooling system. Thanks for any help.

There are a few ways to do it... I run fresh water with salt away through the muffs on the outdrive. Then, I drain the raw water out form the blue plastic drain plugs under each manifold. Then I attach my container with with antifreeze to the the muffs and start the engine. I only fog my carborator engines. I use the fogging oil until my antifreeze gets low, then I shut off the engine. I change the oil and pull the battery... That's it for my smaller boat... There are many threads on this process on the site... Try a search...

 

[rcknecht]

I see that Milford is in slower DE near Lewes... You might want to start a new thread and ask who lives in Lower DE....

 

[steppinstone]

Suthrn,

I'm not far away in Kent County. I'm in the Milford area almost daily. I'd be happy to help out in any way I can. Drop me a PM and we can connect.

 

[OldSkool]

Make sure you find and open all the drain cocks on the engine. I did mine the first year and in the spring I found a freeze plug in the bilge. Easy enough to repalce and the block didn't crack. I now know where everyone is. Also drain the oil from the outdrive and fill it with fresh. You need to remove the top oil level plug and the bottom drain plug. Refill it from the bottom up to the level plug hole. You can buy an adaptor to fit the drain port with a hose. This fills all the cavities and does not trap air in the drive. In the spring recheck it and top it off if needed.

If there is water in the drive it will come out first when you remove the drain plug. If you see a lot of water then you'll need to check the seals to find out why it's getting in the drive.

 

[Dave S]

My experience is when you go with "package pricing" you may pay to much and possibly that is what is happening here. Decide what you can do yourself and then give them a list of things you want them to do and ask them for a price on just those items.

One of the other things that bothers me is I do not believe that a 496 engine requires any winterizing per-se. Other 496 owners can confirm or correct this if I am wrong). My understanding is all 496 blocks have closed cooling so the block itself is fully protected with anti-freeze. The rest of the fresh water cooling system is quickly drained via the air acuated single point drain system.

Here is a list of other things that I recommend be taken care of in the fall on your boat based on my knowledge of the 260DA which is built on the same hull as your 270AJ

Engine - Change the oil and oil filter.

Outdrive - Pull the outdrive and check the engine alignment and the condition of the gimbal bearing, the u-joints, and the bellows. Lubricate the drive splines and the gimbal bearing. Torque the gimbal ring. Change the outdrive fluid as well.

Fuel system - Add fuel stabilizer

Freshwater System - Empty the freshwater tank, the hot water heater, and blow out all water lines. You can also add a few gallons of pink antifreeze for safety sake afterwards. Leave all your faucets open afterwards.

A/C Heat - Empty strainer bowl and blow out all lines.....or run a gallon or two of pink stuff thru it.

Head and Waste tank - Empty waste tank fully. Flush a gallon or so of Pink antifreeze thru the head itself. This will protect the pump as well. If you have a macerator I am not quite sure what you do about that since I don't have one. Maybe someone else
can advise you about that.

If you have a generator it also needs an oil/filter change and the cooling system needs to be winterized as well. Maybe others can tell you how to handle this since I don't have a generator.

Since you also have a live well I would assume you could winterize that in a similar fashion to the freshwater system.

If I were in your shoes I would decide which of these things I wanted to do on my own and what I wanted to pay the dealer to handle.

Dave

 

[Suthrn]

Thanks everyone for your input. I'm sure I can handle the ac, generator, water system, bait station, and toilet. That being said just getting all my ducks in a row and I think I'm going to tackle the motor and drive too. I have someone locally that might be able to assist as well.

 

[Presentation]

.... I think I'm going to tackle the .......drive too..

By far, properly pulling, inspecting and servicing the drive is the most difficult item on this list.

I assume your buddy knows enough little things like checking for streaks in the drive oil, knows to fill from the bottom up, knows what nut to remove last when pulling the drive, has a drive stand, alignment tool, tork wrench, knows the correct tork for the gimble, etc.

 

[Whitenights]

Good idea to learn to do it yourself. I do my entire boat, including oil changes, in about 2 1/2 hours by myself. My dealer wanted over $600 plus trip charge.

Our group of dock neighbors usually do them all the same weekend so we help out each other as needed. New guys can get some reassurances that they are doing it right as well.

Try and find somone who has done it to help so you can be confident about it this winter when it gets below freezing the first time.

Dean

 

[HUMPH]

I would simply move...

 

[Suthrn]

By far, properly pulling, inspecting and servicing the drive is the most difficult item on this list.

I assume your buddy knows enough little things like checking for streaks in the drive oil, knows to fill from the bottom up, knows what nut to remove last when pulling the drive, has a drive stand, alignment tool, tork wrench, knows the correct tork for the gimble, etc.

I have the manuals for this stuff and with info from this site and other resources it wont be hard. I have enough tools to do just about anything. I admit I will need the alignment tool though. I'm pretty good at mechanical work and have always done what I could when I could on everything I've owned. Be it replacing a transmission, fixing a rear end, installing a supercharger, swapping heads or something as simple as changing my oil. I know this is not a car but by reading, asking, and researching I will be able to handle it.

 

[Suthrn]

I would simply move...

I can only do that when Uncle Sam says. :grin:

 

[Presentation]

I have the manuals for this stuff and with info from this site and other resources it wont be hard. I have enough tools to do just about anything. I admit I will need the alignment tool though. I'm pretty good at mechanical work and have always done what I could when I could on everything I've owned. Be it replacing a transmission, fixing a rear end, installing a supercharger, swapping heads or something as simple as changing my oil. I know this is not a car but by reading, asking, and researching I will be able to handle it.

Gotcha.

I would not remove a Bravo III drive humped underneath a swim platform unless I had a drive stand. The odds of hurting my back or dropping it on the ground as I was taking it off or putting it back on are too great.


Somewhere around here forum member Dennis posted photos of his home made drive stand. He did a very good job but I can’t find his post. I’m hoping another forum member can find this post and give you a link.

I do recommend you buy a drive stand or make your own like Dennis did.

 

[Presentation]

I just wanted to add one more thing.

Some DIY do it yourself jobs have a fast payback.

For example, buy a cheap rotary tool from Harbor Freight, some wool bonnets, some oxidation remover, wax, a few other things and for under $200 + your time you can get your hull looking very nice versus spending over a grand having someone else do it. The payback is immediate.

Buying all the necessary tools for your drive service to DIY will take years to recoup your savings by doing it yourself.

Given the fact that you have a single drive vs twins, your payback will be twice as long unless you intend to start a side business.

By that time you may have moved onto a different boat.


By all means if you are capable and want to do it, go for it. I just am making the point that the payback is less advantages then some other DIY projects.