yeah...but what will the Admiral think?
:smt001
She is already angry so does it really mater:lol::smt043:lol:
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yeah...but what will the Admiral think?
:smt001
So on a freshwater only boat, how often should those be replaced?
Salt water corrodes a riser in 5 or 6 years with zincs... their lifespan is affected by the waters conductivity plus the amount of electrical current created by disimilar metals... and the marina itself if you're at one. Failed risers are quite common in salt water boats. Most humans don't do preventive maintenance as diligently as regular maintenance.
I don't think I've seen a 'fresh water boat' that had a riser fail. They may last as long as the engine... or close to it. My neighbor has a '95 205 Monterey / 5.7 volvo. He uses it regularly in both fresh and salt and hasn't replaced his yet.
Great, thank you for the info. I was worried that it was time to check mine on my 2005 since it's 4 years old now. Good to know for the upgrade to a 280/300/320 as well. Definitely going to go for a freshwater only on the upgrade to avoid things like this.
So here's one...
My boat (new) was sitting on a MM lot for 600 days before I bought it. Because the oil has been sitting so long in the AZ heat, might it need changing right away? I think I have about 5 hours on the boat.
Going for fresh water only? That would be like prison! haha
We're all ocean boaters almost exclusively in this area but we do have some beautiful lakes to enjoy on occasion.
Don't be afraid of the salt. Sea Ray uses good quality materials that don't deteriorate like some other manufacturers do and a little preventive maintenance goes a long way.
Salt water is more dense than fresh so your boat has better buoyancy. It'll make you faster and get better fuel economy by around 10%...
The other factor to consider on replacing risers and manifolds is that they usually rust from the outside in........i.e., from the exhaust passage into the water jacket, not the other way around, as you might think. Every time you run your boat, the exhaust tends to clear away some of the surface rust on the interior walls of the castings...you put the boat up for a week or 2...the freshly exposed cast iron rusts again..then, next week, you fire up the boat and do it all over again.
The riser is particularly subject to corrosion because there is a tight bend in it just a short distance away from the water's surface.
The aluminum sea water cooled manifolds and fuel coolers don't last long enough to know if they corrode in the same manner or not.
Freshwater boats are not immune from exhaust system corrosion.........it just takes them linger to show the effects.
This is also another area where an automotive comparison just doesn't work.
Original question: Delaying the 100 hour service should not be a problem as long as your oil changes are current in accordance with the service manual, usually 100 hours or 1 year, whichever comes first. You have to agree that this is a conservative service interval - there is no way they would push the limits on this one. I wouldn't either, for two reasons 1) Warantee would be void 2) It's your engine's life blood - keep it fresh. I wouldn't push it to two years under any circumstance. You might get away with it if you constantly had the oil tested, but what's the point? I do it myself. $100 for 5 gallons of Merc Synth Blend, about $15 for oil filters, and maybe 30 min's per engine after you get them warmed up.
Impeller: Depends on which drive we're talking about. 8.1's - 300 is a long shot. I'm going every 2 years (150 or so). I wouldn't compare it to a tiny, little, fragile generator impeller. That needs to be replaced every year. I don't see any difference in changing the impeller in the water or on the hard. Never check it - just change it - seeing it is 99% of the work. It's easier if you remove the exhaust tubing and rotate the muffler out of the way (from our local SR mechanic, Sean).
Engine tune up: 8.1's - They don't need anything until 3 - 4 years, then consider new plugs. I wouldn't change an IAC valve as preventative. Carry a spare. They only take a second to change out (engine runs, but won't idle = change IAC valve). The are the same as car IAC's, as I understand. They don't withstand the harsh environment of boating as well as a warm, dry car engine. The parts fail, then you replace them.
Hurth transmission service - very limited. I'd change the fluid now, if you haven't done it yet, and clean the filters with solvent (if metal, which they are). Dry them, then replace. Suck the oil out through where the filters goes before replacing them. The dealers do NOT do this on a regular basis, even though it is in the service manual. The fluid lasts quite a long time. It's good to change it out to remove contaminants every few years.
....
I need to update my "list" on my profile page....
I do hate gas engines. I worked on a 150 HP outboard all afternoon... pain in the a$$.
(It runs properly now)
Union wages, I presume? : )