40 sedan bridge forum

Arickosmo said:
Salon light bulb replacement...how do they come out of headliner? I have two different trim colors too...
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They are simply held in with spring clips. You gently pry them out with a flat head screwdriver. Be prepared for many of the spring/clips to break, as mine did when I swapped over to LED.
 
Keith the Cop said:
My air horns stopped working. I was reading the forum and looking for the selenoid placement. I took some pics in the windlass locker and saw the air tubes running into a blue protective sleeve. The sleeve went into the master stateroom and the selenoid is located behind the TV on the port side. Easy to get to being I replaced the tv w a flat screen on a swing mount. Can definitely access it through the access hole in the closet if you have the original TV.
In the end it was just a wire off the selenoid. Popped it on and works fine. Figured since there was some confusion on posts I would share the placement.
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Interesting enough, the horn says to oil on a frequency. I had no idea until I replaced the TV, and stumbled on the compressor
 
cwiert said:
They are simply held in with spring clips. You gently pry them out with a flat head screwdriver. Be prepared for many of the spring/clips to break, as mine did when I swapped over to LED.
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Agreed and they will bite back at your finger tips when the spring clips clear the headliner.

Soon after acquiring my 400DB I changed 32 bulbs to leds like 2-3 bucks a bulb on Amazon. Huge difference in amp draw. Main salon was over 8 amps (9 bulbs) now barely one amp.


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Windscreen mounting screws were mostly stripped upon re-installation. I think whoever put it together or the yard that took it a part really had trouble with the windscreen install. I'm going to have to drill out all the holes and patch them, redrill them and reinstall the screen. Really a bummer.

Side note. Does anyone know if the long side windows are available still? One of mine is less than perfect and if I can't fix it up I'd love to replace it.

Pics to follow while I repair.

I'm sorry to be such an internet o=loser but I can't figure out even "how" to search for the spring clips on the salon lights. My wife would like me to change them all to brushed nickel and I figure I'll break a few clips. Found the lights but can't find the clips.
 
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We stay anchor at Coconut island, in Marco island, I just want to share a picture of our boat at the sunset, that why we love boats.
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On the older 400DBs, like mine, the impeller on the Westerbeke generator is impossible to get at. It's on the back side, against the water tank. I had a mechanic at the boat yesterday helping me with some routine maintenance items, and towards the end of the day, the genny impeller was next on the list of things to address. After looking at it, he was in awe that an engineer could be so stupid to place it there. He said the genny needed to be disconnected from all hoses and then at least 3 motor mounts needed to come off in order to swing the genny out to gain access to the impeller. He estimated a 3-hour job to change it and we didn't have time for that yesterday.

How did anyone else with older boats overcome this? I think newer boats (maybe 2000+) have a remote location for it and the impeller is now on the side. I'll call Westerbeke to see if they sell an adapter kit in order to overcome this problem.
 
I just finished mine. First time, so took 12 hrs. Could do it in maybe 4 hrs next time.

My steps:
1. Remove at least 2 of the batteries, port side, closest to the stern.
2. Remove the vertical support post, port side right next to generator drive belt.
3. Disco the top water supply hose going into the fresh water pump. (Seacock first)
4. Disco the bottom hose from fresh water pump. (this was a real PITA, needing screwdriver shoved in, to break the hose/fitting grip)
5. 4 Bolts to remove the entire water pump.
6. Now impeller is easy.
7. Before starting, you need impeller kit, gasket for impeller cover, and gasket for water pump.
8. Special tools would include small mechanics mirror for the blind work you need to do, putty knife or preferably sharp paint scraper to remove the rest of the old pump gasket, and marine grease for getting any stubborn hose bits back in place. Bolts are metric, but 1/2" is close to the 12mm. Deep sockets needed for at least one of the bolts. I also used a 1/2" open wrench.
9. Reassemble in reverse.

(There is a similar post in the Diesel forum)

After completing this &%^E%^*$^#E%^& job, I feel that I can tackle more advanced tasks now. A real PITA.

Hope this helps,

DAVE
 
david_h said:
I just finished mine. First time, so took 12 hrs. Could do it in maybe 4 hrs next time.

My steps:
1. Remove at least 2 of the batteries, port side, closest to the stern.
2. Remove the vertical support post, port side right next to generator drive belt.
3. Disco the top water supply hose going into the fresh water pump. (Seacock first)
4. Disco the bottom hose from fresh water pump. (this was a real PITA, needing screwdriver shoved in, to break the hose/fitting grip)
5. 4 Bolts to remove the entire water pump.
6. Now impeller is easy.
7. Before starting, you need impeller kit, gasket for impeller cover, and gasket for water pump.
8. Special tools would include small mechanics mirror for the blind work you need to do, putty knife or preferably sharp paint scraper to remove the rest of the old pump gasket, and marine grease for getting any stubborn hose bits back in place. Bolts are metric, but 1/2" is close to the 12mm. Deep sockets needed for at least one of the bolts. I also used a 1/2" open wrench.
9. Reassemble in reverse.

(There is a similar post in the Diesel forum)

After completing this &%^E%^*$^#E%^& job, I feel that I can tackle more advanced tasks now. A real PITA.

Hope this helps,

DAVE
Click to expand...

Sounds amazing. Thanks for the write-up and instructions, though.
 
the 450DA has the same configuration.

Pivoting the generator out is a lot easier than your mechanic envisions. Westerbeke mounts the entire generator on 2 rails. Removing the motor mounts separates it from the mounting rails which complicates the process exponentially because the 4 motor mounts have washers, isolators, more washers and nuts and bolts. Sea Ray mounts the generator with 4 bolts or screws (depending upon the model boat) thru the rails on the generator. Leave the motor mounts alone and you need to remove only 3 of those fasteners, the seawater and exhaust hoses then the whole shooting match will pivot on the 1 remaining fastener.

I don't usually repair the generator seawater pump, I replace them instead. I have found that a new pump lasts 3-400 hours and a rebuilt one will begin leaking long before that. The other thing is that replacing the cover gasket is really hard to do correctly. They seem about as thick as typing paper and any little debris left on the cover plate or mounting surface will cause a leak. Couple the above with the fact that just getting to the water pump requires you to work mostly blind and it is a recipe for failure.
 
fwebster said:
the 450DA has the same configuration.

Pivoting the generator out is a lot easier than your mechanic envisions. Westerbeke mounts the entire generator on 2 rails. Removing the motor mounts separates it from the mounting rails which complicates the process exponentially because the 4 motor mounts have washers, isolators, more washers and nuts and bolts. Sea Ray mounts the generator with 4 bolts or screws (depending upon the model boat) thru the rails on the generator. Leave the motor mounts alone and you need to remove only 3 of those fasteners, the seawater and exhaust hoses then the whole shooting match will pivot on the 1 remaining fastener.

I don't usually repair the generator seawater pump, I replace them instead. I have found that a new pump lasts 3-400 hours and a rebuilt one will begin leaking long before that. The other thing is that replacing the cover gasket is really hard to do correctly. They seem about as thick as typing paper and any little debris left on the cover plate or mounting surface will cause a leak. Couple the above with the fact that just getting to the water pump requires you to work mostly blind and it is a recipe for failure.
Click to expand...

Thanks Frank. So you replace the whole pump assembly, and that has the new impeller already in it?
I may have to go that route.

Also, thank you for 10,000+ posts. The vast majority which I'm sure were incredibly helpful to CSR users everywhere. Thank you for your dedication and input for the last 10+ years. It's appreciated. :)
 
Thanks guys........I must admit that I never look a the post count, so I had to figure out what you were talking about!

John....yes, I replace the whole pump assembly. This is one of those jobs I just let the marina handle. When you consider labor rates as high as they are now, it doesn't take long to burn up the cost of a whole new pump in the rebuild labor. Changing the pump is a 15 minute job (if you are little bitty and are right handed, which lets me out on both counts!) vs. 2+ hours to remove the old pump, take it to a bench, go to the parts counter for parts, then tear down the pump and clean it and reassemble everything and reinstall the pump.
 
If anyone needs to replace toilet to vacuum generator hoses, or remove the toilet, it turned out to be much easier than expected. First disconnect hose at union next to shower sump. Disconnect water line from toilet. Remove base shroud. Remove four bolts holding down base. Stick arms/head in guest stateroom floor storage and feed hose toward toilet while a helper pulls toilet out. You may need to clip a zip tie or two to feed the hose. Took no time at all.
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Finally addressed an issue I've been having. Or at least tried. I've had issue where the port motor would start to run rough and almost die & the boat would make a left turn. This would happen when the port tank would get between 1/2 & 1/4. Never when full. This time slightly over 1/2. Switch port motor to starboard tank and back to normal.

Today I cut an access hole under the ice maker that's under the steps to get to the fuel pick up. I got the connection out expecting a pickup tube to come out. I wanted to check it for a crack to see if it was maybe sucking air. No such luck. It's built into the tank. So I'm trying to figure out if I can sleeve the pickup w another slightly smaller tube.

Anyone ever have such issue?
 
The wife and I didn't like the AC blowing right on our faces when we slept. This little mod is working perfectly to divert the airflow.

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Hello
I hope you guys can help in gloving my issue 96 searay sedan bridge
I have water coming into the storage box under the guest room and were the grsyv water tank area
it seems it's when I plug the water directly into the boat or wine I use the water pump too
any suggestion will be appreciated
 
ynot said:
Hello
I hope you guys can help in gloving my issue 96 searay sedan bridge
I have water coming into the storage box under the guest room and were the grsyv water tank area
it seems it's when I plug the water directly into the boat or wine I use the water pump too
any suggestion will be appreciated
Click to expand...

Check the switch on the sump pump, may be the sump is full, bilge pump not working, it happens to me, I replace the switch and the sump pump, now is working fine, I also changed the sink to flow outside the boat.



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