Polishing Before and After

Got done what I could this weekend, almost ready. I finished wetsanding this weekend, then went over with a polishing glaze and a Mequirs cleaner/wax I had. Now that I have a base I can start cleaning and waxing like normal. You will notice the white on the bottom paint is the white from the wetsanding. There are also streaks on the bottom that need to be recleaned and waxed. I sure wish mine had the newer rounded corners, all those straight body lines make it interesting sanding and buffing/polishing. SB SeaRay emblem went flying about 20ft after I nicked it!

Yesterday
3477819603_b0ecaf3da2_b.jpg


What it was when I got it
3339190846_9440dbb8ab.jpg
 
I used 3M polishing glaze to get any sanding marks out and then used a cleaner wax that I had a leftover gallon jug of. That was just to make sure it was all sealed up before it oxidized again. I have the flagship wax to do yet, I'm going to go back through and clean up any spots I have and when all is clean I will do the final wax. Next year I should have a good base where I can follow the same system that Jeremy laid out in his post. That way things should only get better down the line as I improve the finish on this old neglected girl.
 
It's really looking great. Congrats on a job well done.
 
I wanted to show you a picture of my floating finger dock, but the dinghy was in the way. So, I took a picture in the side of my reconditioned gel surface so you could see the reflection.

04-22-09_1333.jpg
 
So, after reading every page :smt021 , I ordered a couple hundred bucks of Meguiars products and another 120 for the PC7424.

And that's the easy part...

Many thanks for all the tips. I expect it to look brand new when I get finished. It's not to bad now. But after spending it's first 25 years in dry storage, it is now outside. I need all the protection I can get.

Oh, and especially thanks to Jeremy for taking the time to tell us how this works
 
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Nice job. You willing to describe what you used and how long it took you and to give any suggestions to us "newbies"?
 
Frisky,

Welcome to the forum!!!

You have 21 pages of "suggestions" to read on this thread. I've read this thread once already and will read it again right before ordering supplies. Good info!!
 
Frisky Business said:
Nice job. You willing to describe what you used and how long it took you and to give any suggestions to us "newbies"?
Click to expand...

LmannyR said:
Frisky,

Welcome to the forum!!!

You have 21 pages of "suggestions" to read on this thread. I've read this thread once already and will read it again right before ordering supplies. Good info!!
Click to expand...

Ditto. Welcome. FB, but there is a ton of info here, read it ALL first then let us know if there are specifics you're interested in.
 
Jeremy and experts,

My hull has light oxidation, top has heavy oxidation. There are a few scratches here and there that will hopefully compound out.

Grocery list so far:

Porter Cable 7424
Meguiars Premium Flagship Marine Wash (#65)
Meguiar's Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover (#49)
Meguiars Polish High Gloss (#45)
Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax

What bonnets and pads you recommend for the different steps?


Thanks!!!
 
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Hampton,

So use the orange/yellow during compounding then red to polish and wax?

How about bonnets.

I'm a bonehead when it comes to the applicators so bare with me.
 
Another problem I am having as the summer winds down. How do you seal the non skid surfaces to keep them from oxidizing and running all over your polished finish? I have non skid all over the top side of the bow and when it rain, or I washi it the white oxidation runs down the walk around section and down the sides, leaving a blackish trail. It's also very hard to keep clean, as anything will stick to and stain it. Bird dropping being the worst offender. Has anyone found something to seal it without making it slippery, or does it need to be painted over with something new?
 
I just wax my non skid. I use a Porter Cable on the slowest setting I can to apply it to the large areas, and a terry cloth towel for the small areas near the rail where the PC won't fit. I use Starbright polish followed up with Meguire's Flagship.

I have a medium soft brush that I use to remove the wax. After brushing, I go over it with a microfiber towel. It is a little slick for the first 2 weeks, but after you walk around on it for a little while you wear some of the wax off of the little diamonds and its not so bad.
 
Carver370 said:
After the compounding step try out Meguires One Step Compound And Polish in the big blue bottle. I found that this takes out all the swirls and everything even with the rotary after compounding. Or slap a pad on the Porter Cable and use it with that, YOU WILL BE IMPRESSED
Click to expand...


I'll second this recomendation. I just waxed mine last week with the above....What a difference!!!

BTW, your boats lookin good Todd!
 
LmannyR said:
Hampton,

So use the orange/yellow during compounding then red to polish and wax?

How about bonnets.

I'm a bonehead when it comes to the applicators so bare with me.
Click to expand...

Yellow for Meguir's One-Step Compound with polish or Power Cut Compound
Orange for Meguir's Oxidation Remover
Red for pure polish or wax

It's not too critical. If you use a rotary (like me) for the heavier stuff, use a wool bonnet. I don't use anything electric to remove dry compounds/waxes. I use a big towel.
 
RiverRat said:
I'll second this recomendation. I just waxed mine last week with the above....What a difference!!!

BTW, your boats lookin good Todd!
Click to expand...
Thanks, it's time for a fall rebuff and a few new coats of wax for the fall/winter boating season.

Hampton said:
Yellow for Meguir's One-Step Compound with polish or Power Cut Compound
Orange for Meguir's Oxidation Remover
Red for pure polish or wax

It's not too critical. If you use a rotary (like me) for the heavier stuff, use a wool bonnet. I don't use anything electric to remove dry compounds/waxes. I use a big towel.
Click to expand...

I agree. I use the wool bonnet for the heavier work, then move to the orange pad for the Meguiar's 67 then onto the red for the wax application.
 
Hampton said:
Yellow for Meguir's One-Step Compound with polish or Power Cut Compound
Orange for Meguir's Oxidation Remover
Red for pure polish or wax

It's not too critical. If you use a rotary (like me) for the heavier stuff, use a wool bonnet. I don't use anything electric to remove dry compounds/waxes. I use a big towel.
Click to expand...

Lake country red is a finishing pad. Should I use their polishing pads to polish?

Also, for my 220 da (24ft), how much compound wax and polish will I need?

Thanks
 
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Boat looks great. My question is, how did you get a 6 year old to help? I got a 5 year old grandson who just loves to throw stuff in the water. Like drills, buffers screw drivers and the dog. Hell I am ging to be America's Most Wanted and he going to be the poster child for grandkid abuse. But I still love having him aboard
 
LmannyR said:
Lake country red is a finishing pad. Should I use their polishing pads to polish?

Also, for my 220 da (24ft), how much compound wax and polish will I need?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Once again, not too critcal. If you are going to use the polishing pad to remove the products, I think that may be a good choice, but I haven't done that - I use a towel.



Depending on the condition of your boat, I would purchase one 16 oz bottle of everything except Meg's Flagship Premium Wax -get a 32oz bottle of that. You will have enough to finish the job and not so much that if you don't need one of the products again that you will be wasting it. Personally, I'd get the big bottle of the wax - you can't get enough of that stuff.
 
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