40 sedan bridge forum

Yeh, I get what you all are saying with a snake. I agree, the blockage is past that Y
 
Maybe a bad breaker. Do you have a Digital amprobe that measures DC amps . Maybe you can watch the amp gauge on your panel and see how much current it is pulling before it trips. Not sure how much the breaker is rated for but if it is tripping before the the rated amperage then its the breaker. That would be some coincidence if both pumps shorted out.
 
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I bet the pumps are fine, Like you said the block is after the Y. We also installed a on/off switch in the wiring to the pumps. That way if one pump fails, we still have the other head to use.
 
Leaking Port Lights in both the Portside Head and Master head.

Anyone have this problem? I haven't had time to look at it closer, but I am assuming the gasket is failing. I plan to remove and clean up old gasket (caulk) and add new caulk then replace the port lights.

Any thoughts or input would be appreciated!

Thanks!
 
truk911 said:
Leaking Port Lights in both the Portside Head and Master head.

Anyone have this problem? I haven't had time to look at it closer, but I am assuming the gasket is failing. I plan to remove and clean up old gasket (caulk) and add new caulk then replace the port lights.

Any thoughts or input would be appreciated!

Thanks!
Click to expand...
My master window leaked and I only needed to tighten the screws on the latch tabs to increase the pulling pressure against the seal. Others have had to remove the entire window and re-bed it to the hull. Just depends on your situation. One thing, my latch tabs had developed a curve to them from the constant pressure over the years. I took them off and flipped them around so the curve was against the glass not away from it.
 
I strated a thread on USB outlets

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/78336-USB-Outlets-(Vimar)

fdzfvp.jpg
 
FeLizDream said:
I just starting to move the faucet left to right, several times until it got loose, then the difficult part, I put my head under the sink and try to get my body as far as I could inside the cabinet, then unscrew the screw underneath the sink, the difficult part is the access , after I removed the old faucet, I just screwed the new one.
I had to buy an extra extension for the faucet supply to reach the existing connection.
Click to expand...


Beautiful job!

What type of connections did you use to go from the Sea Ray water supply to the faucet?

If you have any photos of the undersink connection that would be great.

Thanks for your help!
 
Aviator said:
Beautiful job!

What type of connections did you use to go from the Sea Ray water supply to the faucet?

If you have any photos of the undersink connection that would be great.

Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

I just went to Home Depot and use standard connections, it fits perfectly , remember the connection is long so I use an extension
I am going to the boat on Friday , I will post pictures of the connections
 
FeLizDream said:
I just went to Home Depot and use standard connections, it fits perfectly , remember the connection is long so I use an extension
I am going to the boat on Friday , I will post pictures of the connections
Click to expand...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-C...d-Polymer-Faucet-Connector-B1-16A-F/100056596

This connection work perfect with No Adapters, see the link above, just remove the old faucet and remove the existing old plastic, install the new faucet, connect the new line.
at the beginning I tried to buy the PET Lines ( the plastic lines in red and blue) but they don't fit the Shark and bite Sea Ray connections, the lines from Home Depot wok perfect.
 
FeLizDream said:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-C...d-Polymer-Faucet-Connector-B1-16A-F/100056596

This connection work perfect with No Adapters, see the link above, just remove the old faucet and remove the existing old plastic, install the new faucet, connect the new line.
at the beginning I tried to buy the PET Lines ( the plastic lines in red and blue) but they don't fit the Shark and bite Sea Ray connections, the lines from Home Depot wok perfect.
Click to expand...

As promised, here are the pictures of the Kitchen sink faucet connections
1a77b9891767219cb3a50ad4f473b629.jpg

defc73e71c4c8619e0c5c127f57d4b3f.jpg

1996f804cd0d0a0d93e6d9b2da49c1f5.jpg


Just connect all the faucet supply lines to the existing bronze connection , the line is long from the sink faucet to the supply connection line, the job is super easy the hard part is the access, I had pain everywhere on my neck, head, back, and my abs, but at the end it was worthy, and the Admiral very happy
The connections are the same for the master and the Guest head rooms
Have a good Scotch after the job to celebrate...
 
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New Project: kitchen Sink drains directly overboard.

I just finished to do this job, I didn't like the sink drain water going to the sump, so today with help of Capt. Drew, we opened a trhu hull using trhu hull 1 1/2" from West marine, we used the same existing line, we just cut it to he right length, It will help keep the sump tank clean and no smell. I close the sink line in he sump pump with a " 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Flexible Cap" from Ace hardware.Very easy job. The Hull is balsa core about 1/2", I kept the piece just in case in the future I will need to match the gelcoat or something.
 

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Nice job. I don't like the sink draining into the sump either. Yet, it's always a little nerve-wracking drilling holes into a perfectly good boat - and one that's in the water no less!

I have a couple questions:
1. Where is the new hose outlet in relation to the sink? Is access through the cabinet below the sink?
2. If I wanted to do something similar, but without drilling a hole in the boat, do you think it would be possible to "T" into the existing outlet hose from the sump box? In that case, the sink water would bypass the sump box and would join the join the sump box discharge hose somewhere downstream of the check valve.
 
cwiert said:
Nice job. I don't like the sink draining into the sump either. Yet, it's always a little nerve-wracking drilling holes into a perfectly good boat - and one that's in the water no less!

I have a couple questions:
1. Where is the new hose outlet in relation to the sink? Is access through the cabinet below the sink?
2. If I wanted to do something similar, but without drilling a hole in the boat, do you think it would be possible to "T" into the existing outlet hose from the sump box? In that case, the sink water would bypass the sump box and would join the join the sump box discharge hose somewhere downstream of the check valve.
Click to expand...
I would think a check valve would be too restrictive with a gravity feed drain. From the perspective of the sump pump, you might get away without a valve if the least resistant path is out the boat, and not back up the sink drain. Best location is behind the fridge
 
I think if you pull the fridge you will find the other discharges. Just drill one right next to the others. If you try to tee into the other hose, it will probably back fill through the hoses to the valve. You would trap scummy water there.
 
Concerns? .....YES!

Anytime you drill or bore a hole in a cored area, the exposed core material and the FRP layers of the structure you expose should always be sealed with epoxy.
 
cwiert said:
Nice job. I don't like the sink draining into the sump either. Yet, it's always a little nerve-wracking drilling holes into a perfectly good boat - and one that's in the water no less!

I have a couple questions:
1. Where is the new hose outlet in relation to the sink? Is access through the cabinet below the sink?
2. If I wanted to do something similar, but without drilling a hole in the boat, do you think it would be possible to "T" into the existing outlet hose from the sump box? In that case, the sink water would bypass the sump box and would join the join the sump box discharge hose somewhere downstream of the check valve.
Click to expand...

1.- the new hose is just under the sink cabinet, is the most direct line to the outside, in my last sea Ray 320 the sink was setup originally to overboard, I don't know why sea Ray did that in this model, just be sure after you open the core to seal it very well with a good marine sealer, I use west marine sealer, don't use 3M 5200 it is too strong and will be very difficult if you decide later on to replace or re install a new thru hull.

2.- I checked that, and it is not a good idea, is better to overflow directly like Searay did in my older boat totally separate from other lines, if you check YouTube, "bogabboo" post a video with the same job, you can do all the job under the sink cabinet, without removing the refrigerator, access a little bit tight but easy job.
 
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