Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

I had it checked out and they say it is normal. It is a slight noise compared to the other. You can only hear it with the engine hatch open and standing over it. Sounds like a slight clutch plate rattle as it engages. Overall miles away from the way my alphas shifted on my 280.
 
Sea buzz said:
Anyone know where I can get a replacement coffee pot for a 2006 340 sundancer?
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How much is it worth to ya? I have a spare, but I'm not sure I want to part ways with it yet. I did end up buying a Kurig for the boat, as the coffee carafe has a tendency to fall out and be smashed to smithereens.

The microwave has been out of production for a long time, so as far as find a carafe, you are limited to folks like myself who have squirreled a few away.
 
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Sea buzz said:
Anyone know where I can get a replacement coffee pot for a 2006 340 sundancer?
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If Scott wants to hold onto his I have one I will sell you. I changed out my microwave because it died so I no longer need the carafe. Let me know if it doesn't work out with Scott.
 
Jeremygavin said:
If Scott wants to hold onto his I have one I will sell you. I changed out my microwave because it died so I no longer need the carafe. Let me know if it doesn't work out with Scott.
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Yeah, actually I'd like to hold on to my spare, so thanks Jeremy for stepping up!
 
Hello all! I am in the market for a 340 DA between 2003.5 and 2006. Ive looked at quite a few 340s and came across a couple that had deck moisture saturation problems. In fact, the last boat I looked at had soft spots on the forward deck area, and obvious saturation/rot damage to the engine hatch area. How common is this on these boats? Are the hull sides also cored? I believe at the very least the hull bottom is solid fiberglass. In 2005 (vs '04 and '03.5) it also appears the dry weight of the boat goes from 14500lbs to 15500lbs. What changed in the construction to account for the extra weight? Did they remove coring and add more fiberglass?

Any insight is greatly appreciated. We sold our last boat in August and we look forward to finding a new one! Thanks!
 
nvaboater said:
Hello all! I am in the market for a 340 DA between 2003.5 and 2006. Ive looked at quite a few 340s and came across a couple that had deck moisture saturation problems. In fact, the last boat I looked at had soft spots on the forward deck area, and obvious saturation/rot damage to the engine hatch area. How common is this on these boats? Are the hull sides also cored? I believe at the very least the hull bottom is solid fiberglass. In 2005 (vs '04 and '03.5) it also appears the dry weight of the boat goes from 14500lbs to 15500lbs. What changed in the construction to account for the extra weight? Did they remove coring and add more fiberglass?

Any insight is greatly appreciated. We sold our last boat in August and we look forward to finding a new one! Thanks!
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The only thing that I am aware of that changed was the base engine went from the 6.2 L engine to the 8.1 liter. I don't know how much more the 8.1 weighs than the 6.2, but that would account for some of it. The hull sides are not cored, nor is the bottom. The only coring is in the radar arch, engine hatch and dog house, as you have already found.
 
nvaboater said:
Hello all! I am in the market for a 340 DA between 2003.5 and 2006. Ive looked at quite a few 340s and came across a couple that had deck moisture saturation problems. In fact, the last boat I looked at had soft spots on the forward deck area, and obvious saturation/rot damage to the engine hatch area. How common is this on these boats? Are the hull sides also cored? I believe at the very least the hull bottom is solid fiberglass. In 2005 (vs '04 and '03.5) it also appears the dry weight of the boat goes from 14500lbs to 15500lbs. What changed in the construction to account for the extra weight? Did they remove coring and add more fiberglass?

Any insight is greatly appreciated. We sold our last boat in August and we look forward to finding a new one! Thanks!
Click to expand...

Way more common than people realize. SeaRay did a poor job of properly sealing deck hardware during the 2000's when they were selling more boats than they could produce. The deck and the hatch should be the only cored areas. There should be no coring for the bottom half of the boat/rubrail down. Not sure what changed between those years. but I would doubt that they stopped coring the deck. Out of curiosity, how was the hatch rot/saturation obvious? I have recently discovered this, but it was not obvious at all. I am not sure of the extent of damage, but will be meeting with the owner of my dealership next week to assess.
 
sfergson727 said:
The only thing that I am aware of that changed was the base engine went from the 6.2 L engine to the 8.1 liter. I don't know how much more the 8.1 weighs than the 6.2, but that would account for some of it. The hull sides are not cored, nor is the bottom. The only coring is in the radar arch, engine hatch and dog house, as you have already found.
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Are you sure about coring in the arch? I drilled some holes for an antenna in the side over the summer and it seemed to be glass all the way through. I am hoping you are wrong, as my arch has some water leaks. I would hate to discover that coring is wet as well.
 
The deck on two boats had a small area about 1 square foot located by the forward hatch that had suptle flexing. A moisture meter and percussion verified the area was saturated. Also approximately half of the port side deck showed elevated moisture throughout, leaking probably where the sunpad deck rails were bolted to the deck. The engine hatch had a suptle flex in a small area just inside the transom door. Lifted the engine hatch and you could see wood rot on the wood frame. A moisture meter and percussion also verified about 1/4 of the engine hatch was saturated.

Thanks for the replies so far.. glad to hear the sides and bottom are not cored
 
bankyf said:
Are you sure about coring in the arch? I drilled some holes for an antenna in the side over the summer and it seemed to be glass all the way through. I am hoping you are wrong, as my arch has some water leaks. I would hate to discover that coring is wet as well.
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Yeah, I'm sure. Not all of it is cored, but there are areas that are.
 
We closed on our new to us '07 340 last week. So far we like it a lot. We spent some time going over most of the major mechanical during the survey phase so I'm pretty good there. One thing that I haven not been able to get working is the DVD player in the aft. There seems to be no power to it. Also the light in the electrical cabinet is not working. My guess is they are on the same circuit. Does anyone know if there is a fuse or breaker for this equipment? I figured I would ask before I start taking the boat apart.
 
saopm said:
We closed on our new to us '07 340 last week. So far we like it a lot. We spent some time going over most of the major mechanical during the survey phase so I'm pretty good there. One thing that I haven not been able to get working is the DVD player in the aft. There seems to be no power to it. Also the light in the electrical cabinet is not working. My guess is they are on the same circuit. Does anyone know if there is a fuse or breaker for this equipment? I figured I would ask before I start taking the boat apart.
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The light in the electrical cabinet is wired through the floor illumination switch at the cockpit door. The floor lights must be on for it to illuminate. I only spliced in two new lights to figure that one out.
 
My after-market aft TV only works with the generator on and plugged into an outlet. I'm assuming you also have your generator going and the switch set to outlet. I don't know how big your TV is or if it's on 12V for some reason. The main thing is to make sure both your GFCI's are reset. One's in the bathroom and one's in the cabinet next to the outdoor fridge. I don't want to admit to how much time I wasted and it was only the GFCI. Maybe a 340 shouldn't have been my first boat.
 
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