DMarcel
Member
How difficult was it to replace the gypsy?
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ThanksA lot easier than I thought it would be. Just remove the two Allen bolts (sorry, I forgot the size), and watch that the plate under the top piece doesn't slide off the deck into the drink. Then, undo the large Torx screw. Hopefully you have the tool that came with the windless. Then it's a simple matter of lifting the gypsy out and putting the other in it's place. A very easy job. I'm enjoying the new gypsy and worth the $184.00. Or at least it will be when I have an approaching storm and need to get that anchor up quick!
Trim tabs - I'm feeling totally lost regarding these tools. When someone references having the tabs "down", does that mean the buttons to bring the bow down? Or is just the opposite? Currently, I press both trim tabs using the "bow down" buttons. They are in the extreme "bow down" position when I take off. However, once I plane out, I gently adjust the "bow up" buttons. Am I doing this correctly? Again, maybe it's late in the day.......or maybe I just need the reassurance I'm doing it right........not sure. Either way, can someone provide the "right" answer??? LOL
My bow tends to move starboard while backing into my slip, so I use full right down trim (which is left down on the instrument panel) to counteract this.
Of course, if I had twins I wouldn't need to use this technique!Never heard of this approach but cool idea! Learned something new today.
Trim tabs - I'm feeling totally lost regarding these tools. When someone references having the tabs "down", does that mean the buttons to bring the bow down? Or is just the opposite? Currently, I press both trim tabs using the "bow down" buttons. They are in the extreme "bow down" position when I take off. However, once I plane out, I gently adjust the "bow up" buttons. Am I doing this correctly? Again, maybe it's late in the day.......or maybe I just need the reassurance I'm doing it right........not sure. Either way, can someone provide the "right" answer??? LOL
I had a similar problem on the starboard side. It drove me crazywe have a 2005 280 sundancer that has water leaking in the port side v birth. Anyone have a similar problem and solution?
we have a 2005 280 sundancer that has water leaking in the port side v birth. Anyone have a similar problem and solution?
I had a similar problem on the starboard side. It drove me crazy
it turned out to be the port hole latch was too loose
a turn of the screw fixed my problem
we have a 2005 280 sundancer that has water leaking in the port side v birth. Anyone have a similar problem and solution?
Minor problem here..... One of the two bow hatch screws stripped, so only one side tightens to hold the hatch open. It looks like it is riveted on, so it will have to be drilled out. Has anyone done a repair on this part? Are parts available for the hatch, which is made by Taylor, or must I buy the whole unit?
Update: I should have done a Google search first. Looks like parts are available, but they are pricey: http://www.go2marine.com/category/12263/spare-boat-hatch-parts.html
I'll remove it and see if it can be fixed.
Very good. I didn't know the collars were available separately. I love that "$25.00" handling fee. I guess they use the "everything for boats is three times as expensive" rule. I jury rigged it today by drilling a hole in the plastic arm and using a nail as a stopper. My wife complains she has trouble loosening the screw because I screw it in too tight. Now, she can't complain. I actually did the same to the working side also, so she won't have to unscrew that side either. I'll use it this way for a while and see how it works out. Total cost for two nails: about 10 cents!Been there-done that. Read my thread here from post # 7 onward.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/27938-Taylor-20x20-Hatch-Maintenance