40 sedan bridge forum

Thanks. And you’re right , it may be the dimmer. But my EL backlight is also toast. Let me restate that. It’s gone. The foil that held it on fell apart and it came off the back of the panel. It’s a mess. So I need to clean that out. I like the idea of an LED strips. Those can be dimmed with by a variable resistor (or dimmer switch). Wonder if Carling makes a switch with a built in varistor? The switch lighting is the easier thing in my mind.

So the instruments are illuminated from AC too?
No, the instruments are wired to 12v variable out of the dimmer. The ac inverter is only for the el wire snaking behind the switches. You could replace that with 12v led string then inverter goes away.
 
Looking for ideas as to what to do with the hole that will be left when I remove my old Nutone blender base. Have googled but not found a neat useful repurpose of the hole, and maybe the power supply. Was thinking maybe a single induction burner in bench or over the top of the hole , but not sure if the power supply for the blender is geared up for a 2000w burner. Another idea I had was to simply make a wooden chopping board that locks underneath in the hole , or a removable tray of some sort for chucking dirty utensils in, but surely someone has done something better ?
 
Has anyone replaced the mirrors on the medicine cabinet doors in the head?

Ours are getting “antiqued”.

We stopped by a few local shops and other than “have new doors made” we have not gotten anywhere.

i think I saw some pics online where the mirrors had been made frameless. Maybe they were new doors or they got mirrors cut and bevelled by a glazier, then glued on, removing/cutting off first the timber strips that overlay the glass. Modern look. Avoids the issue of making new wooden trim or saving the old.

But I really like those wooden frames. To keep them as is however looks impossible. I doubt they could be pried off so that means cutting, and cutting would destroy them really, so new trim would be needed and I bet matching the colour of the timber would be a fail. Very interested to see how you go with this
 
i think I saw some pics online where the mirrors had been made frameless. Maybe they were new doors or they got mirrors cut and bevelled by a glazier, then glued on, removing/cutting off first the timber strips that overlay the glass. Modern look. Avoids the issue of making new wooden trim or saving the old.

But I really like those wooden frames. To keep them as is however looks impossible. I doubt they could be pried off so that means cutting, and cutting would destroy them really, so new trim would be needed and I bet matching the colour of the timber would be a fail. Very interested to see how you go with this

We didn’t get to it this winter but want to replace the mirror glass as well. We plan to paint the wooden frames as the oak-y wood looks very dated. I think the med cabinet and wall mirrors can be disassembled without destroying them.
 
Looking for ideas as to what to do with the hole that will be left when I remove my old Nutone blender base. Have googled but not found a neat useful repurpose of the hole, and maybe the power supply. Was thinking maybe a single induction burner in bench or over the top of the hole , but not sure if the power supply for the blender is geared up for a 2000w burner. Another idea I had was to simply make a wooden chopping board that locks underneath in the hole , or a removable tray of some sort for chucking dirty utensils in, but surely someone has done something better ?

i don’t know where this blender base is located - I’m not sure it’s a factory standard option? But you can get a counter top remade and replace the whole thing. Not that expensive. We had a matching counter made for the port side when we removed the forward facing dinette and it turned out fantastic.
 
i don’t know where this blender base is located - I’m not sure it’s a factory standard option? But you can get a counter top remade and replace the whole thing. Not that expensive. We had a matching counter made for the port side when we removed the forward facing dinette and it turned out fantastic.
It was only on earlier models. . Yes there’s the full replacement option, I have a perhaps overly romantic love of the original sea ray fit out, or perhaps it’s just me being frugal . Would love to see pics of your counter
 
It was only on earlier models. . Yes there’s the full replacement option, I have a perhaps overly romantic love of the original sea ray fit out, or perhaps it’s just me being frugal . Would love to see pics of your counter

They can match the counter. It’s nothing special to Sea Ray.
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We didn’t get to it this winter but want to replace the mirror glass as well. We plan to paint the wooden frames as the oak-y wood looks very dated. I think the med cabinet and wall mirrors can be disassembled without destroying them.

looking at my stateroom wardrobes I’m wondering if a new mirror could be slid into the slot created by removing and digging out any glass as it’s not trimmed off on one side. Would be a very delicate procedure

upload_2022-3-18_22-52-1.jpeg
 
looking at my stateroom wardrobes I’m wondering if a new mirror could be slid into the slot created by removing and digging out any glass as it’s not trimmed off on one side. Would be a very delicate procedure

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i see no reason why not. That’s the exact thing we are going to try and do for the mirrors in the head cabinets. Doing it without creating 7 years of bad luck is going to be the trick!
 
If the old mirror is 1/4 " thick order a 3/16" thick mirror, should slide in then.
 
looking at my stateroom wardrobes I’m wondering if a new mirror could be slid into the slot created by removing and digging out any glass as it’s not trimmed off on one side. Would be a very delicate procedure

View attachment 122743

Thank you to everyone for all the mirror advice! We’ve tabled the project for now. Assuming a shower door company has nothing to offer, I’ve settled on attempting to cut/break/dig it out as Pgeee suggested when the time comes.

If anyone beats me to this project, I’d love to hear details.
 
Looking for ideas as to what to do with the hole that will be left when I remove my old Nutone blender base. Have googled but not found a neat useful repurpose of the hole, and maybe the power supply. Was thinking maybe a single induction burner in bench or over the top of the hole , but not sure if the power supply for the blender is geared up for a 2000w burner. Another idea I had was to simply make a wooden chopping board that locks underneath in the hole , or a removable tray of some sort for chucking dirty utensils in, but surely someone has done something better ?

I’ve been eyeballing this https://www.thekitchenprep.com/ as a drop in replacement for our broken Nutone in-countertop blender if it’s just a matter of it not working and not a matter of reclaiming/repurposing the countertop space.

If you do get rid of it and it still works, let me know. Maybe we can work out a deal. ;)
 
Has anyone hung a tv on the aft bulkhead in the gust cabin? Any advice? I’m curious how you got power to the tv.
 

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Has anyone hung a tv on the aft bulkhead in the gust cabin? Any advice? I’m curious how you got power to the tv.

I have not, but you might be able to tap off of the AC outlet inside the little cabinet on your left-hand side as you first walk in that state room.
 
Has anyone hung a tv on the aft bulkhead in the gust cabin? Any advice? I’m curious how you got power to the tv.
Yes, my boat has a TV mounted there. Both power and cable snake from the vacuum compartment into the liquor cabinet under the aft dinette seat. It runs between the front of the sliding door and the bulkhead. Then a couple inch diameter hole cut into the bulkhead to get the TV power cable in and the tv cable out. Although now that we stream everything the tv cable isn’t necessary. The 120v outlet and tv cable splitter to split again off of are right there at the vacuum motor. Won’t be at boat for several weeks so I can’t get you any pictures. Take the aft dinette seat out to get to the space between the sliding drawer cabinet and the bulkhead to do the work. There is an access cutout under it.
 
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I’ve been eyeballing this https://www.thekitchenprep.com/ as a drop in replacement for our broken Nutone in-countertop blender if it’s just a matter of it not working and not a matter of reclaiming/repurposing the countertop space.

If you do get rid of it and it still works, let me know. Maybe we can work out a deal. ;)
Yes, those modern day equivalents look interesting, but although it would likely fill the hole nicely , I don’t think we would use it enough. My nutone is inoperative also
 
I have a 2003 Sedan bridge, previously had a 340 Sedan bridge. The PO mostly used the boat as a day boat so a lot is original, including the TV's. I've seen a lot of replacements that don't really look like quality, e.g. held in place by a bungee cord. Thinking of removing the cabinet, which probably means resurfacing that entire bulkhead, right? Also considering removing the sofa and installing a TV lift cabinet to get a bigger screen. That may mean covering the AC vent when the TV is up. Can that vent be relocated? Any other suggestions from those who have redesigned the starboard bulkhead/floor plan in the salon?

Hat Trick - I stumbled on this and remembered your post. Not what you were thinking but, does prove it’s possible. Also it may give you some ideas.
 

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What prop size is everyone using? We have 22x24. While we got 2800 wot on sea trial with five people onboard, three weeks later with only two on board but full tanks and for the rest of the season we only got 2400 wot.
Told they can only be reduced to 22x22 with tuning.
What is evryone else finding on their 400?
Thanks for all input.
 
So during winterization last winter I asked my mechanic to replace the impeller in my Westerbeke 8.0BTDA generator. He said he opened up the raw water pump, looked at it and did not replace the impeller because he said I needed a new raw water pump due to wear. I have had no trouble with the generator and water flow seems good. How would he be able to visually tell I need a new one? Can I just buy a rebuild kit instead? Or is he feeding me a line (maybe he didn’t have the impeller on hand?).
 
Only time I ever replaced water pumps was when they leaked. A leak shows as rust stains around the oval weep holes. if the cover is scored It Can be flipped over. Never seen the internal surface scored but suppose it could happen. The main wear part is the rubber impeller, sounds like smoke to me. If it is leaking which is visible from the exterior a replacement is easier and will last longer.
Btw...whats your prop size, lol
 

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