420 DA Thread

SRMark said:
I was on my boat yesterday and I noticed the fresh water pump would come on for just a second every half hour so I know I am losing pressure somewhere. I looked at the water manifold and didn't see any leaks but I remember having problems on my previous boat that had the same hose connections. I had one start to leak and I couldn't get the connection to seal after I had taken it off. Because it was a 3 foot hose that went from the manifold to the water heater I was able to replace it and the new hose sealed. Before I start is there a special procedure to get those hose connections to seal?
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I had a similar problem on my boat last year, I could not find a leak anywhere finally noticed water dripping overboard, it was the hot water tank over pressure/over temperature valve.
 
Blueone said:
For those of you that have replaced the battery charger....how did you do it?
I can see me going head first in there sort of.... there is no way I am fitting in there feet first.
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Blueone...Yes!! I was able to replace mine by just standing upright.....I simply reached into my wallet and handed a small plastic card to a guy behind the counter. It worked like a charm! :)
 
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SRMark said:
I was on my boat yesterday and I noticed the fresh water pump would come on for just a second every half hour so I know I am losing pressure somewhere. I looked at the water manifold and didn't see any leaks but I remember having problems on my previous boat that had the same hose connections. I had one start to leak and I couldn't get the connection to seal after I had taken it off. Because it was a 3 foot hose that went from the manifold to the water heater I was able to replace it and the new hose sealed. Before I start is there a special procedure to get those hose connections to seal?
Click to expand...
I can tell you that I too had a leak due to a very small crack and simply replaced the manifold itself. It was very easy to do and the manifold was pretty cheap too. Some on Club Sea Ray have recommended these: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/watts-aqualock-seatech-cone-seal-1-2-nps
 
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I came across this while bottom painting the boat.... I believe it's the mechanical speedometer sensor. (A spinning paddlewheel) midway down the bottom of the hull. My question is, is there supposed to be some sort of cover on this that is missing?
 
juggernaut1 said:
Is it not functioning on AC, DC or both? In any case bypass the power supply by running 12v straight to the controller on the fridge. If the fridge works it's your power supply. Cheap and easy fix to replace. May also want to upgrade to the BD50 instead of the usual BD35.
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And what if the fridge does not work on direct 12v ?
 
brewster16 said:
View attachment 104326 I came across this while bottom painting the boat.... I believe it's the mechanical speedometer sensor. (A spinning paddlewheel) midway down the bottom of the hull. My question is, is there supposed to be some sort of cover on this that is missing?
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Nope that’s it. Might want to replace it with the airmar service kit while you have it out.
 
brewster16 said:
I can tell you that I too had a leak due to a very small crack and simply replaced the manifold itself. It was very easy to do and the manifold was pretty cheap too. Some on Club Sea Ray have recommended these: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/watts-aqualock-seatech-cone-seal-1-2-nps
Click to expand...
Did the hose connections seal when you installed the new manifold or did you have to replace those washers on all the hoses? It looks like those are made to just be tightened by hand, Does over tightening cause the seal to fail or leak?
 
310sundancer said:
I had a similar problem on my boat last year, I could not find a leak anywhere finally noticed water dripping overboard, it was the hot water tank over pressure/over temperature valve.
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Thanks, I will check that.
 
Chief Ed said:
Got the canvas installed on our new cockpit cover. Came out perfect. Looks like it came with the boat. As promised, here are some pics

View attachment 104156

View attachment 104157

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View attachment 104159

Next phase is adding removable panels around the sides for when the boat is stored. Not a fan of the “camper canvas” look, but should be good to keep the rain out, sun off the upholstery, etc.
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This looks great. Will this stay up permanently? Do you still use slant back canvas and leave this in same position when leaving boat?
 
SRMark said:
Did the hose connections seal when you installed the new manifold or did you have to replace those washers on all the hoses? It looks like those are made to just be tightened by hand, Does over tightening cause the seal to fail or leak?
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Sometimes it is the cone washer that you refer to, however, often times the leak is on the backside of the female connector. Brass clamps show below were used from the factory. Over time, they relax just enough a drip/leak to develop between the clamp and the female connector. In this case, the only recourse is to cut the clamp off, install a new fitting and clamp. Sometimes this can be a lot of fun as the hose is as stiff as steel pipe and SR left about 1/2" of extra hose. Good luck!
Bennett

upload_2021-5-3_13-3-0.png
 
villain style said:
And what if the fridge does not work on direct 12v ?
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I can't help you after that as I've found it was the power supply. But confirm you have minimal voltage drop by comparing the voltage measured at the controller with the voltage on the battery gauges in the electrical cabinet. The controller will shut down the fridge when voltage drops below circa 10.7 volts and will not restart until around circa 11.7 volts. Any substantial voltage drop will cause the fridge to shut down prematurely, and may not restart until the generator or motors are started. These min voltages shutdowns may also be triggered by other 12 volt loads, even if only temporary.

There is a way to override the voltage drop function on the controller by jumping two of the terminals on the controller, but can't recall which two terminals they are. This may be handy to confirm if you are experiencing below min voltage requirements during normal house loads, so that you can rectify.

After all that I can only suggest the controller or fridge is cactus.
 
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ocgrant said:
Nope that’s it. Might want to replace it with the airmar service kit while you have it out.
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ocgrant, after reading your response I did a little research on the Airmar transducer service and watched a few very informative Youtube videos. Wow, I learned something new for sure! I'd never serviced my transducer before and now I know why that black cylinder (the blanking plug) is attached to the transducer down in the bilge floor. My paddlewheel under the boat was caked with debris and barnacle growth. It now spins freely and the O rings are properly lubed. Def looking forward to seeing a working speedometer once she goes back in.
 
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SRMark said:
Did the hose connections seal when you installed the new manifold or did you have to replace those washers on all the hoses? It looks like those are made to just be tightened by hand, Does over tightening cause the seal to fail or leak?
Click to expand...
Well, in my case I simply replaced the manifold and easily screwed each connection by hand. It worked well and I've not had any issues since. But my issue was a cracked manifold not a connection issue. I would not assume you have a connection issue at the manifold until you either see the drip off the bad connection or more importantly reach way down to the floor under the fresh water manifold (in that back berth cabinet next to the television) and feel a puddle on the floor in there. As I'm sure you know there are many culprits when it comes to pressure loss/pump cycling on the fresh water system.
 
As for OTHER things that come to mind when it comes to fresh water pump cycling: a slightly open faucet anywhere on the boat, including such obscure locations as your anchor locker fresh water wash down faucet, your aft locker fresh water spigot, your swim platform shower, your bilge fresh water spigot and your windshield spritzer connections. The more obvious daily use faucets, showers and their connections should also be checked. Oh, not to forget the often overlooked toilet(s) fresh water connections and the previously discussed hot water heater and freshwater pump itself.
 
brewster16 said:
As for OTHER things that come to mind when it comes to fresh water pump cycling: a slightly open faucet anywhere on the boat, including such obscure locations as your anchor locker fresh water wash down faucet, your aft locker fresh water spigot, your swim platform shower, your bilge fresh water spigot and your windshield spritzer connections. The more obvious daily use faucets, showers and their connections should also be checked. Oh, not to forget the often overlooked toilet(s) fresh water connections and the previously discussed hot water heater and freshwater pump itself.
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It looks like I will have to investigate this thoroughly to find out why the pump is cycling. I did check the faucets including the anchor wash down faucet and swim platform shower. I will report back when I have found the source. Thanks for the info.
 
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