420 DA Thread

Buyajet said:
I apologize in advance for my continued questions but promise to contribute once I get my boat together.
I cannot find replacement rope hangers for the aft locker. Google, Pounder, and others do not have results. Anyone know a source?
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https://www.defender.com/images/000700.jpg

https://www.defender.com/product3.j...ps-line-holder&path=-1|7504|2290179&id=742214

you could cut the other loop off...looks like Taylor made it...they might have something else.

You could also make a strap and just but a snap on it like your canvas
 
Buyajet said:
I apologize in advance for my continued questions but promise to contribute once I get my boat together.
I cannot find replacement rope hangers for the aft locker. Google, Pounder, and others do not have results. Anyone know a source?

Also-looking for a solution to temporarily "plug" the electrical line hole below the aft locker while underway. Way too much water coming in during rains/running, etc. and I know the locker needs to be vented to dry the ropes as well but...
Click to expand...

The issue isn't the hole. Water is getting in somewhere much higher. In 12 years I haven't figured it out . My hanging lines are soaked everytime it rains … It cant be coming in the hatch as its lower then the lines. Canvas doesn't leak... I just gave up years ago .

Rob
 
I was in search of this cockpit A/C vent that I posted previously. Contacted Dometic directly (thanks to direction on this thread),
Scott Borgman (804) 559-6476 replied instantly and had the solution for $105 through one of their suppliers. Pt# 217316033 if anyone needs one. 36.jpg
 
Robski97 said:
The issue isn't the hole. Water is getting in somewhere much higher. In 12 years I haven't figured it out . My hanging lines are soaked everytime it rains … It cant be coming in the hatch as its lower then the lines. Canvas doesn't leak... I just gave up years ago .

Rob
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Ugh and thanks.
 
kysearay said:
Hey there, looking at doing the same thing - do you know how - which route you used/will use to run the RG cable and 110V for a Plug to that area - I have been contemplating it for weeks and want to reduce the amount of paneling I have to remove - I get really nervous about removing 12 year old panels.....
thanks
Chris
Click to expand...
Thanks to Robski and radaron, we found it moments later. We didn't reroute though nor did I see what route tech took. Just an R/R and I wasn't there to watch how my tech did it so no help...sorry.
 
importmonkey said:
Got tired of the head and shower doors swinging around while at at anchor or even on the slip. They would even bang into the wall when open. Yes, I could just shut them, but when on the hook, I need the airflow from the windows.

So! I installed these.

Cucumis Stainless Steel Door Magnetic Door Stopper Bedroom Door Ultra Mini 2Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076XZN4XV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0gKzBb84CA864

And they work awesome. Just the right size and blend into the "decor" nicely.

View attachment 58589 View attachment 58582 View attachment 58583 View attachment 58584 View attachment 58585 View attachment 58586 View attachment 58587 View attachment 58588 View attachment 58589


Turned out so well I'm getting another to do the guest head door.

Edit. Just installed the guest head door. Screws that come with it are a joke. Get yourself some good SS screws and predrill the wood.

View attachment 58775 View attachment 58774
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I wondered where you put the "3rd" one. I installed the 2 fwd ones and had a hard time figuring where to place so thanks. Agree the screws provided are a joke. Tore off heads on 4 of them before I changed (duh). They make a difference. To the others on this thread, these really work well. Thanks again.
 
Robski97 said:
The issue isn't the hole. Water is getting in somewhere much higher. In 12 years I haven't figured it out . My hanging lines are soaked everytime it rains … It cant be coming in the hatch as its lower then the lines. Canvas doesn't leak... I just gave up years ago .

Rob
Click to expand...

Rob, i had the same issue. So the stern seat back bolster is mounted with screws from bottom. Remove those screws and lift up the bolster. There are pins that drop into the fiberlass which hold the seat back in place. I found the holes where they drilled for these pins to be drilled through the top into the lazarette. Also the area was cored and wet. So i dried it out, enlarged the holes and refilled with epoxy. Redrill for the pins. I then sealed from inside the lazarette with Silicone. Essentially rain water woudl travel under the bolster, down the pin holes and soak everything in the Lazarette.
 
swaterhouse said:
I am in the middle of a full electronics upgrade, including my Smartcraft DieselView and have spent a lot of quality time looking up under the dash and in all sorts of compartments around the helm!

On my boat (2007) the shift is full electronic, but the throttle is short cables to a set of modules located behind the small "chart pocket"/cup holder bin next to the helm seat. I suspect your shift is setup is either setup the same or you will find the shifter modules next to the throttles.
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Which Smartcraft DieselView unit did you go with?
 
Buyajet said:
Which Smartcraft DieselView unit did you go with?
Click to expand...

The VV 403, I got it from Seaboard Marine sbmar.com

Still working out some bugs, and I lost the ability to use the analog (dial) guages. Once I get bugs worked out I will share my experience.

Mercury did not make the upgrade to newer displays easy. Unfortunately the 7" display would have been easier (and has connectors for the analog style guages), but does not fit in the space we have where the old one is located.
 
SALON HALOGEN OVERHEAD LIGHTS LED REPLACEMENT PROJECT

I just undertook a mini project to replace the overhead bulbs in the salon with low wattage LED lights:

1) Screen Shot 2018-08-12 at 10.26.51 PM.png - To get the spring fixtures pulled away, I used the plastic squeegees that Boat US supplied when I purchased boat lettering from them. Much better than using my fingers or a sharp metal chisel or screwdriver.

2) Screen Shot 2018-08-12 at 10.31.45 PM.png - Once you pull away the fixture, you there is quite a bit of extra loose wiring you can pull out so you have room to work. The old bulb will burn to the touch so you need to let it cool to the touch.

3) Screen Shot 2018-08-12 at 10.33.44 PM.png - My first attempt at purchasing replacement LED bulbs off of Amazon was a *FAIL*. I didn't read close enough the dimensions of the LED, and it was too long to allow the fixture to screw shut. I returned it to Amazon and went shopping again.

4) Screen Shot 2018-08-12 at 10.37.15 PM.png - These LEDs fit perfectly in the fixture. They are available on Amazon for $16.77 for a pack of 10 bulbs ($1.67/bulb). Longest Amazon product name ever: "Yup No Flicker Led G4 Bulb Bi-Pin Base 2700K Warm White Light Bulb, Dustproof 12v 10W Halogen Replacement (2rd Generation Shockproof AC/DC Lamp) for Landscape RV 10 Pack"

5) Screen Shot 2018-08-12 at 10.44.58 PM.png - Original 10W Halogen is in one fixture, 1.2W LED replacement is in the other fixture. Can you tell which is which? ;)

6) Screen Shot 2018-08-12 at 10.47.07 PM.png - Side by side comparison. Original 10W halogen on the left. "Cool white" LED the PO installed in a few of the fixtures in the middle. "Warm white" LED described above on the right side.

These LED's are a big improvement over a previous generation LEDs that I used in my old boat (those required correct polarity insertion to work - these can be inserted either way and work).

Does anybody know if these same LED's will also work in the cabin reading lights as well? I haven't taken one apart yet - so not sure if it is the G4 pin type.
 
swaterhouse said:
The VV 403, I got it from Seaboard Marine sbmar.com

Still working out some bugs, and I lost the ability to use the analog (dial) guages. Once I get bugs worked out I will share my experience.

Mercury did not make the upgrade to newer displays easy. Unfortunately the 7" display would have been easier (and has connectors for the analog style guages), but does not fit in the space we have where the old one is located.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I appreciate the insight. I had heard about the analog issue.
 
Rocket said:
Rob, i had the same issue. So the stern seat back bolster is mounted with screws from bottom. Remove those screws and lift up the bolster. There are pins that drop into the fiberlass which hold the seat back in place. I found the holes where they drilled for these pins to be drilled through the top into the lazarette. Also the area was cored and wet. So i dried it out, enlarged the holes and refilled with epoxy. Redrill for the pins. I then sealed from inside the lazarette with Silicone. Essentially rain water woudl travel under the bolster, down the pin holes and soak everything in the Lazarette.
Click to expand...

Mike ,
even with the canvas on ?? CRAP.. I did notice the nice brown stain of coring ….. thanx pal .

Rob
 
Robski97 said:
Mike ,
even with the canvas on ?? CRAP.. I did notice the nice brown stain of coring ….. thanx pal .

Rob
Click to expand...
Yes, I found water traveling the back side of the bolster. Yep those brown marks is the core rotting.
 
So,, I have an 05 - 420 and a quick question on the thruster.... when I pulled the boat a couple of months ago i had them replace the prop with the new 4/5 blade instead of the 3, the blades were pretty nicked up. It is much more quiet now but also seems to have less thrust - also sounds like battery is low when i am using.
Has anyone updated the prop and if it is a batter issue ( not fully charged) what is the recommended high output battery for the ventus thruster?
Thanks all!!
chris
 
villain style said:
Great write-up. Did you do the shower light also? It looks different then the others...
Click to expand...
I was going to move the “cool white” LEDs that I removed from the Salon into the shower - but the prongs seemed to be too thick to seat correctly. The original bulb was slightly different than the others as well. I ordered a second 10 pack from Amazon - I’ll try this weekend to see if the “warm” LED prongs are skinny enough to fit the shower fixture.
 
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