[tshannoz]

I found 2-3 small, but consistent leaks in my manifold today. These have likely been there for years. I now know why the base of the central vac was so rusted!

Thank you so much for the solution to fix this Sea Tech brass fitting issue as well. I am so amazed at how much better the boat smells since I have kept the shower sump clean and eliminated these manifold leaks. Tom, I hope I don’t have a hose leak like yours, but I will be investigating it soon. 2024 has been a great year for proactive maintenance so far.

Quick question. Has anyone installed a tray below the manifold to route any future leaves to the forward bilge (next to the washing machine)? Like a gutter?

One more question. Has anyone repainted the inside of the original ULine cockpit ice maker? I have a few “low” spots that have collected ice in the past and caused the paint to flake off in 2 places. I would like to re-level the ice maker this year to prevent water from accumulating and give it a cosmetic tuneup for 2024. Would Rustoleum work?

 

[rlynch03]

Those pics look strangely familiar. Re-crimping the brass ferrule looks to me as temporary as the brass will relax again even easier now and leak. Since I used the worm-gear hose clamps I have moved to Oetiker ear clamps. Heat the hose to soften and clamp it on existing or new fittings. Permanent.

Yes I should have referenced you as the author… (smile)

I also have been using the Oetiker ear clamps on these connections without issue.

 

[ttmott]

Yes I should have referenced you as the author… (smile)

I also have been using the Oetiker ear clamps on these connections without issue.

I'm surprised the pics are still around.

 

[tshannoz]

Has anyone ever refinished or polished the galley kitchen floor? I have a bunch of shallow depressions and scratches that look to be in the polyurethane layer.

Also, I am hoping there is a varnish on the market that is close to what Sea Ray originally installed.

 

[rlynch03]

My Starboard rudder shaft is leaking a little. Not sure if ours have the typical flax stuffing materials or I have heard some have a rubber gasket. Also what size is the packing?

It is pretty tight on that side but i will try a monkey wrench.

Anyone been down this road with our boats yet? Thanks for any info.

 

[rlynch03]

Has anyone ever refinished or polished the galley kitchen floor? I have a bunch of shallow depressions and scratches that look to be in the polyurethane layer.

View attachment 162535

Also, I am hoping there is a varnish on the market that is close to what Sea Ray originally installed.

Mine have a few marks like that as well. Haven’t heard of anyone refinishing these floors. Some have replaced their carpet with a hardwood.

 

[rlynch03]

My Starboard rudder shaft is leaking a little. Not sure if ours have the typical flax stuffing materials or I have heard some have a rubber gasket. Also what size is the packing?

It is pretty tight on that side but i will try a monkey wrench.

Anyone been down this road with our boats yet? Thanks for any info.

View attachment 163533

Our Rudder Packing is 1/4”

Found a previous post from 2013 credit to @ttmott for the below info...

Below the packing gland nut is a lock nut that must be loosened first. With a wire brush clean the threads below the lock nut and lubricate with Boeshield or equal. Put the correct sized packing wrench on the lock nut and give it a wrap with a mallet to loosen then thread down the bearing housing several turns. With the wrench then loosen the gland nut a couple of threads and clean and lubricate the threads until you can smoothly turn the gland nut by hand. Tighten the gland nut to the packing and give it another quarter or so turn into the packing. Articulate the rudders to their full extent left and right several times and re tighten the gland. Repeat moving the rudder and tightening until no leakage then tighten the lock nut up to jamb the gland nut.

If you decide to disassemble the gland and rudder retention parts proceed with caution as you could drop the rudder through the boat and possibly sink the boat; if it were mine I would wait until the next haul out.

 

[tshannoz]

I have been replacing my old Rule 2000 gph bilge pumps with new ones and according to the Rule installation guide, check valves are not recommended (can cause airlocks and prevent priming).

Sea Ray has added check valves for each bilge pump. Should these be removed and the bilge hoses redirected with vertical loop before exiting the thru hole? I am curious what the group recommends. Thanks!

 

[ttmott]

I have been replacing my old Rule 2000 gph bilge pumps with new ones and according to the Rule installation guide, check valves are not recommended (can cause airlocks and prevent priming).

Sea Ray has added check valves for each bilge pump. Should these be removed and the bilge hoses redirected with vertical loop before exiting the thru hole? I am curious what the group recommends. Thanks!

If you want what is in that long hose run back into the bilge area you just pumped out then remove the check valves. I know you won't. In this case Rule does not Rule. Use only the flapper style check valves for the application.

 

[tshannoz]

If you want what is in that long hose run back into the bilge area you just pumped out then remove the check valves. I know you won't. In this case Rule does not Rule. Use only the flapper style check valves for the application.

Haha! Thanks Tom. This makes sense. I will be getting new Whale check valves as well. The old ones are a bit stiff and leaky.

 

[tshannoz]

Hi everyone. Do you know where I can find replacement foam inserts like these to slide into the notches under the bridge windows?

View attachment 149413

I have an update for a vinyl alternative to cover the bridge window screw channels. I ordered these from Amazon and they have been great. $50 for 50 feet as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H3F2H4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here are some before/after pics as well:

Here is the new vinyl up front

This is the old foam insert. Mine were super short and did not fill the channels.

Here is the new vinyl

The new vinyl matches the original vinyl channel around the window as well. Super sleek.

 

[tshannoz]

One more windshield-related issue. Last summer, I attached a GoPro suction cup to my bridge windshield. Well, what I thought was dust around the suction cup were hundreds of short craze lines. Ugh. In the pic below, you can see my futile attempt at polishing out the craze lines, but they go all the way through the panel. Does anyone have a source who can make me a new plexiglass panel? Taylor Made hasn’t responded, so I am hopeful there are alternative sources.

I am glad that a rectangular panel was affected. I have nightmares about ever having to replace the curved glass or plexiglass. Hopefully, someone has replaced one of these before.

 

[rlynch03]

One more windshield-related issue. Last summer, I attached a GoPro suction cup to my bridge windshield. Well, what I thought was dust around the suction cup were hundreds of short craze lines. Ugh. In the pic below, you can see my futile attempt at polishing out the craze lines, but they go all the way through the panel. Does anyone have a source who can make me a new plexiglass panel? Taylor Made hasn’t responded, so I am hopeful there are alternative sources.

View attachment 163983

I am glad that a rectangular panel was affected. I have nightmares about ever having to replace the curved glass or plexiglass. Hopefully, someone has replaced one of these before.

Many of my windshield panels have crazing so it is on a list to replace but not excited to get into it. Likely won’t until I have to…

There are a number of plastic companies near me (MD) that will fabricate panels, I always suspected I would go to one of them for help when the time comes.

Keep us up on your progress this is an interesting one.

 

[tshannoz]

500/520 DB pearl #631:

The GFCI outlet in the V-Berth head (in the vanity) is the fuse for the V-Berth AC lighting and outlets. Very interesting.

 

[ttmott]

500/520 DB pearl #631:

The GFCI outlet in the V-Berth head (in the vanity) is the fuse for the V-Berth AC lighting and outlets. Very interesting.

Not the "fuse" but the ground fault device - different. The circuit breaker for that circuit is in the main panel in the Solon.

 

[ttmott]

Question - does anyone see signs of water under the engine room blowers? The raw water pump for the bridge AC is directly under the blower inlet. I see signs that water has been dripping on the pump.
With that said the boat has seen some significant waves in the ocean possibly water getting into the hull side vent grill and find a way into the blower discharge hose????

Maybe next haul pull the side grills off and "investigate"??

 

[spikedaddy99]

1st figure out what type of water (salt or fresh) but I would be pretty concerned about water dripping on the pump.

 

[tshannoz]

1st figure out what type of water (salt or fresh) but I would be pretty concerned about water dripping on the pump.

Not dripping “on” the bridge AC raw water pump, but yesterday I just replaced the impeller housing because I had a leak “through” the pump. The shaft for my magnetic impeller pushed a hole in its plastic housing. Super weird slow leak that was showing up in the starboard bilge.

 

[spikedaddy99]

I wish I had those...

Not dripping “on” the bridge AC raw water pump, but I just had to replace the impeller housing because I had a leak “through” the pump. The shaft for my magnetic impeller pushed a hole in its plastic housing. Super weird slow leak that was showing up in the starboard bilge. Only a $70 fix though.

 

[ttmott]

1st figure out what type of water (salt or fresh) but I would be pretty concerned about water dripping on the pump.

Saltwater for sure. The front of the engine room grill on the sides of the boat is the vent and the rear section is where the blower discharges. I don't know what is in there to prevent water from getting into the blower hose.