Worth changing to Closed Cooling??

[gtfireftr]

Is it worth changing over.......550 hrs

 

[Ten Years Gone]

edit

 

[Henry Boyd]

Actually he already posted this question on THT yesterday and got pretty much the same response; "engines are too old and job is too expensive and not worth it" from everybody that responded. I don't know if the second post here is to find someone to validate a preconceived notion he has, or just timing.

Henry

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[gtfireftr]

Actually he already posted this question on THT yesterday and got pretty much the same response; "engines are too old and job is too expensive and not worth it" from everybody that responded. I don't know if the second post here is to find someone to validate a preconceived notion he has, or just timing.

Henry

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Thanks for your input.
Not trying to validate anything. Looking for pertinant opinions.

 

[Air O'Nautical]

Leave it alone, I've still never seen a motor maintained correctly, last long enough to rust out...
Mostly, neglect kills it long before it has a chance to rust out.
Keep up with it and enjoy the simpler system.

My last boat was raw water cooled in salt water.
I ran it for 9 years and 900 trouble free but, well maintained hours...

 

[IanBat]

Leave it alone, I've still never seen a motor maintained correctly long enough to rust out...
Mostly, neglect kills it long before it has a chance to rust out.
Keep up with it and enjoy the simpler system.

My last boat was raw water cooled in salt water.
I ran it for 9 years and 900 trouble free but, well maintained hours...

Yep


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[scoflaw]

The block can handle it , exhaust and intake manifolds will fail

 

[rcknecht]

Put a fresh water wash down connection and run fresh water through your engines at the end of week end... If your concerned with corrosion.

 

[scoflaw]

You can rinse all you want, rust still happens. It's electrolysis, once it starts it don't stop

 

[fwebster]

100 hours is about the no return mark on Mercruiser engines, so I agree with the previous comments and here is why:

The reason is because the interior surfaces of the cooling passages in the block are all raw cast iron. As the engine heats up and cools down with every use, small particles of rust flake off and settle in the skirt of the block where they get compacted and turn into almost a solid mass of ferrous oxide. Changing to freshwater cooling isn't going to change what has already formed and collected......which doesn't even come out with vatting an engine during a rebuild. Eventually the rust formation is so bad that it is difficult to cool the engine. On an engine that lives in salt water with year round use of about 100 hours per year, the rust/sediment level in the block gets above the block drains in about 10 years.

Note that this has nothing to do with risers and manifolds. The reason is that most of them fail from the exhaust passage in rather than the cooling passage out because it is the salt air in the exhaust passages that causes the rust in manifolds and risers.

 

[gtfireftr]

Put a fresh water wash down connection and run fresh water through your engines at the end of week end... If your concerned with corrosion.

is there a kit that can be purchased?
This is exactly why I asked the question.
Thanks to all who responded with pertinent information.

 

[Bob McDonough]

West marine has a wash down kit and I am installing one this week end. I am sure it can help and the convenience of winterization is a plus. The unfortunate thing is we all know what salt can do to any metal and we obviously can not see every internal part of an engine so maintainance is key. The inevitable is rust will win.
by the way; kit is put out by perko and an easy install from what I can see. As I said; rinse down after run even while in water can't hurt.

Bob

 

[peachypete82]

West marine has a wash down kit and I am installing one this week end. I am sure it can help and the convenience of winterization is a plus. The unfortunate thing is we all know what salt can do to any metal and we obviously can not see every internal part of an engine so maintainance is key. The inevitable is rust will win.
by the way; kit is put out by perko and an easy install from what I can see. As I said; rinse down after run even while in water can't hurt.

Bob

Id be really careful of the perko ones... they are known for cracking and you guess it, when they crack they leak. Lucky its on the suction side so it "may" not be catastrophic, but in my opinion use something else.

I made one for mine.. out of heavy duty poly fittings and a hydraulic quick disconnect system. It goes just before the raw water pump. Comprises of a 1 1/4 ball valve, 1 1/4 barb leading into it... on the other side a 1 1/4 T piece with the hose quick disconnect kit, and then a barbed fitting off the front side... its really strong and definitely wont crack. To use it, i plug the hose onto the quick connect, close the ball valve to stop water going back down the leg.. works a treat and owes me $100AU. I can point you in the direction of the parts if you want to make your own