Winterizing with the pink stuff

[Chris Nowell]

I just can't bring myself to trust this method. For my whole life I've DRAINED the engines in my boats that haven't had closed cooling systems. This year I hooked up a "Star brite" winterizing kit to the muffs and ran the engine until the pink marine propylene glycol antifreeze was running out of the leg at normal operating temp. Then I put the bag over the prop and now I'm supposed to not worry about the block freezing and cracking when it gets down to -20 C this winter. I had a hard time just driving away from it knowing that the block still has liquid in it. Am I nuts?:smt101

 

[Lazy Daze]

I actually prefer to have the AF in there since it helps to cut down on internal corrosion. So, no, from that standpoint you're fine. BUT, if you didn't drain the block/manifolds/PS cooler and remove the t-stat, you will only have some sort of "mix" with the water that was still in there. And, you might still have straight water in the upper part of the engine (intake manifold area).

 

[patokapirate]

I thought you were supposed to run the boat to operating temp, drain the raw water, then run it on the appropriate anti freeze. The benefit of antifreeze over a drained block is less corrosion. For the record, I have the shop at my marina winterize my boat.

 

[MitziGirl]

I let the marina take care of my engine winterizing. I did the plumbing myself, but I don't trust myself doing the engine. I'd rather dish out the winterizing fee than pay for a new engine.

Rob

 

[CV-23]

I use to winterize my 350/Alpha1 by using the outdrive pump do the work for me. The Bravo1 pump is too high a lift and I don't want to burn out a water pump trying it. The past 4 years I've drained my blocks and manifolds after changing oil and fogging....then refill with antifreeze. My friend has a method where he uses a large catch pan under the outdrive and a 12v pump that supplies the outdrive muff with antifreeze out of the catch pan. He does drain his block/manifolds after changing oil and then runs his system to refill everything. He does monitor the antifreeze mixture to make sure it stays below -30 degrees in case some water in the engine mixes with the antifreeze. He does a few boats a year so it's worth the hassle of setting up the system. He is able to reuse some of the antifreeze each year but does use more than me to make the system work. I don't mind pulling some hoses but his system works well for him, Mike.

 

[Chris Nowell]

I thought you were supposed to run the boat to operating temp, drain the raw water, then run it on the appropriate anti freeze. The benefit of antifreeze over a drained block is less corrosion. For the record, I have the shop at my marina winterize my boat.

Yeh, I ran it up to temp, drained the block and manifolds, then ran the pink stuff through. Something in the back o' my head says "don't trust it". I'm probably just being paranoid.

 

[CliffA]

i started this thread which got some attention....you may find it useful....

cliff

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/55853-why-use-antifreeze

 

[rondds]

Chris
By pink stuff do you mean the -50 degree? I'm thinking up there in the Great White North you might need the -100 blue/green stuff (?)

 

[Molson]

-50 is all we use here. I we get colder than -50 days, I'm moving south.

 

[SloBurn]

I winterize with the pink stuff also. I do not/can not drain the blocks or manifolds because there are no petcocks on my block, at least none that I can find. But I run my engine up to temp, 145, and beyond with a hose hooked up to the earmuffs, then shut it off and switch to a 5 gallon bucket of pink. I run all 5 gallons through, and start fogging at about the last gallon. I choke the carb with fogging oil just as the last drops of pink go down to the muffs. I've done this on various boats for years and have not had a problem. But, the label on Prestone pink says "NOT FOR USE ON ENGINES", WTH??? BTW, my brother let his marina winterize his boat and the block cracked, the lawyers fee's to recover from this negligence were more than a new motor would've cost!

 

[rondds]

The "NOT FOR ENGINES" is b/c it has a higher concentration of one of the alcohols (I forget which). Also it doesn't contain anti-corrosives.

 

[Lazy Daze]

The block drains are there. Only use AF that has "polypropylene glycol". The other kind, like Ron mentioned, has ethanol in it.

I'm not saying this an "attack" on you, Slo, but "I've done this on various boats for years and have not had a problem" doesn't mean you will never have a problem. If you're going to do the "bucket" method, the only way to be sure everything is covered is to drain everything, then pull the t-stat, then suck the AF through. Skimping on any step is taking a chance.

 

[fatcatone549]

I ran AF through my motor can I leave it in or do I have to drain it? I don't have a closed system

 

[skolbe]

I drain the engines and remove the thermostat. There is not a need to warm it up if you are draining and removing the thermostat. My dock neighbor tried the warm up method and didn't pull the thermostat and ran 10 gallons through his 454. It was highly diluted. So he started over, by draining and then removing thermostat and running it through. No dilution at all.

 

[src]

The "Not for engines" warning, as I understand it, is basically saying not to use it as your closed-loop antifreeze. Because you know some fool will try to use the pink in their car.

 

[Chris Nowell]

Chris
By pink stuff do you mean the -50 degree? I'm thinking up there in the Great White North you might need the -100 blue/green stuff (?)

Yeh, I bought a case of the pink marine antifreeze with the flush kit from the dealer. They say it'll be good 'till minus 50. It better not get anywhere near that cold here in the Okanagan. We're supposed to be a desert climate. We generally keep our boats moored year round but we'll be putting the new 240 in the slip and have to dry store the 230 'till we sell it.

 

[SloBurn]

Ok Dennis, now you've jinxed me...I'm gonna open up my T-Stat and pour more pink stuff in the hoses to the exhaust manifolds and elbows, as well as into the block, just to be sure.

 

[Chris Nowell]

Ok Dennis, now you've jinxed me...I'm gonna open up my T-Stat and pour more pink stuff in the hoses to the exhaust manifolds and elbows, as well as into the block, just to be sure.

I shoulda done this too. I get too lazy after workin' on trucks all week though. I thought the flush kit and the pink stuff would save me time but now I'm just spending more time worrying. I'll drain it again and pop the stat out so I can fill it manually. I wonder if I can bypass the stat by removing one of the other hoses and pouring the stuff in with a funnel.

 

[rcknecht]

The "Not for engines" warning, as I understand it, is basically saying not to use it as your closed-loop antifreeze. Because you know some fool will try to use the pink in their car.

That's what Prestone says not to confuse the average consumer... The Prestone is good for winterization (its not enthanol)

 

[Lazy Daze]

I know, I know. The bucket method is "made" or "advertised" to look as though it saves a bunch of time. But... do you know how long it takes me to remove the hoses and pour in the pink stuff that way? Let me put it this way... the actual act of pouring the AF out of the jug takes longer than anything else. I find it hard to believe that anyone can do the bucket method faster than I can do it the real way. Plus, I guarantee that when I do it there will be no freezing problems.

I do winterizing on the side, as well - ain't no way in h.e. double hockey sticks that I'm standing behind the bucket method! Unless, of course, you drain... pull the t-stat out... hook up the bucket... run the engine... time the fogging so you don't use too much extra AF... turn it off... probably have to replace at least the t-stat gasket with a new one... you get the idea. Can't see how that neither saves time or money.

Back on track... Slo & Chris: To refill the block/etc with AF, either pull the t-stat housing, remove t-stat and fill there OR just remove the hoses at the t-stat housing. You don't need to do both. For me, I just pour in through the various hoses.