Winterizing Myself

Mstrlucky74

Member
Jul 6, 2015
191
NY
Boat Info
1998 sea ray 215 express cruiser
Engines
Mercruiser
So I thinking about changing it up this year and to possibly save money and store my boat in my yard this winter. Trying to determine what things I won't be able to do myself.

Thinking has to be done by other:
Shrinkwrap
Hauling

I can possibly do:
Winterize engine....what exactly does that entail?

Any other things I'm forgetting please let me know, thanks.
 
Would need a serial number, type of engine , type of drive to give a better answer
Flush the motor for a few minutes, after temp reaches normal spray fogging oil into the carb body untill the motor smokes heavily and stalls.

Remove all drain plugs, engine, manifolds, cool fuel units, power steering units, etc and probe holes to insure they are not clogged

For FWC drain heat exchanger , manifolds, riser, raw water inlet lines, cool fuel, power steering , etc.

For multi-port motors, hook up a winterizing mix from a remote tank,
 
If you are new to winterizing, go to youtube and watch every video you find. Not all will apply, but you need to understand the scope of what you are taking on. Missing something will lead to a costly repair.
Once you have the basics in place, then start asking specific questions.
 
Here is my checklist for winterization (Sorry, some of the indentation didn't come through):

Ø Main Engine (Port)
□ Change oil and Filter
□ Drain seawater from raw water cooling side
□ Run antifreeze through raw water cooling side
□ Run engine on fogging mixed fuel
□ Spray engine and parts with Boesheild
□ Check for signs of wear to prep for next season
Ø Main Engine (Starboard)
□ Change oil and Filter
□ Drain seawater from raw water cooling side
□ Run antifreeze through raw water cooling side
□ Run engine on fogging mixed fuel
□ Spray engine and parts with Boesheild
□ Check for signs of wear to prep for next season
Ø Generator
□ Change oil and Filter
□ Drain seawater from raw water cooling side
□ Run antifreeze through raw water cooling side
□ Run engine on fogging mixed fuel
□ Spray engine and parts with Boesheild
□ Check for signs of wear to prep for next season
□ Drain and clean strainer
Ø Fresh water system
□ Empty fresh water tank
□ Empty freshwater pump and strainer
□ Empty hot water tank
□ Empty bypass valve
□ Empty mixing valve
□ Blow out all air lines with compressed air set at 50psi Max.
□ Head faucet
□ Galley faucet
□ Toilet
□ Cockpit faucet
□ Transom shower
□ City water connection
Ø Waste water system
□ Pour antifreeze in
□ Toilet
□ Clean toilet
□ Put toilet seal lubricant on ball seal
□ Head vanity
□ Shower sump
□ Clean sump
□ Antifreeze in sump
□ Galley sink drain
□ Cockpit sink
Ø AC system
□ Drain and clean strainer
□ Pump antifreeze through system
□ Spray AC condensate drain pan with Boesheild
Ø General
□ Wipe down all seats with vinyl protectant
□ Wipe down all cockpit surfaces with cleaner
□ Wipe down all cabin surfaces with cleaner
□ Set out damp-rid bowls
□ Set up dehumidifier
□ Put cockpit seats in cabin
□ Vacuum bilge dry
□ Make list of repairs for spring
□ Set up frame for shrink wrapping
 
Would need a serial number, type of engine , type of drive to give a better answer
Flush the motor for a few minutes, after temp reaches normal spray fogging oil into the carb body untill the motor smokes heavily and stalls.

Remove all drain plugs, engine, manifolds, cool fuel units, power steering units, etc and probe holes to insure they are not clogged

For FWC drain heat exchanger , manifolds, riser, raw water inlet lines, cool fuel, power steering , etc.

For multi-port motors, hook up a winterizing mix from a remote tank,

Thanks. I have a Mercruiser 5.0 I/O.
 

1. Attach muffs to your outdrive and run fresh water through your engine until the thermostat opens.

2. Drain your manifolds (open blue petcocks)… Then close those petcocks.

3. Attach Pink Antifreeze bucket or container with 3-5 gallons of antifreeze. Put it on your swim plat form. (Make sure the valve and vent are open on the container.)

4. Run your engine until your pick is almost all gone. Then shut off your engine.
 
1. Attach muffs to your outdrive and run fresh water through your engine until the thermostat opens.

2. Drain your manifolds (open blue petcocks)… Then close those petcocks.

3. Attach Pink Antifreeze bucket or container with 3-5 gallons of antifreeze. Put it on your swim plat form. (Make sure the valve and vent are open on the container.)

4. Run your engine until your pick is almost all gone. Then shut off your engine.
You forgot the final step :
In the spring replace the engine because of the cracked block.

As soon as you shut the engine down to drain the manifolds the engine starts to cool down and the thermostat starts to close. You would be lucky if you got more than a gallon of antifreeze to mix with the water in the block.
 
I like to remove the thermostat for this reason.

Run on the muffs to flush out the engine/cooling system.
Remove all blue drain plugs.

With the engine off, remove the engine block drain hoses at the drain manifold mounted below the crankshaft pulley.

Make sure each side of the block drains properly, I've used short blasts of compressed air into the hoses to clear any debris if they don't drain properly.

Then I remove the thermostat and pour the antifreeze right in, making sure it runs from each drain plug before closing it up for the winter.
 
You forgot the final step :
In the spring replace the engine because of the cracked block.

As soon as you shut the engine down to drain the manifolds the engine starts to cool down and the thermostat starts to close. You would be lucky if you got more than a gallon of antifreeze to mix with the water in the block.
Good point... You need to make sure the temp stays up so the thermostat stays open... I did it this way for many years and never had a problem, but I don't live in Canada... To be safe, pull your thermostat...
 
I don't winterize my boat since I'm boating year round but have some snowy/freezy days and I only empty/blow the fresh water system between 12-2 months.

Do you guys apply vaseline or something similar to that to the porthole gaskets for freezing temperatures to protect the gaskets ?

Thanks
 
I have always used the drain and fill method, I know lots of boats are successfully winterized every year using the suck it in method, but guessing if the thermostat is opened or not is not for me. It literally takes 30min to winterize my boat - run it to fog the engine, pull the 5 blue plugs to drain everything, 2gal antifreeze in the block and 1 each in the manifolds until it runs out the exhaust. I don't even pull the thermostat, I pull the circulating pump and manifold hoses and fill it that way. Some engines might be easier to pull the thermostat, but this is easier on mine.
 
Can't you just drain your engines and pull the hoses from tstat housing to fill? I know one is the inlet, 2 are going to each exhaust and the last is going to the block.
 
I don't winterize my boat since I'm boating year round but have some snowy/freezy days and I only empty/blow the fresh water system between 12-2 months.

Do you guys apply vaseline or something similar to that to the porthole gaskets for freezing temperatures to protect the gaskets ?

Thanks
No, but it might not be a bad idea... I put Vaseline on the cockpit cover snaps for lubrication...
 
I winterize raw water cooled motors by draining them, and then pulling hose off of T-stat housing and pouring anti freeze down that hose. Never had a problem.
 
No, but it might not be a bad idea... I put Vaseline on the cockpit cover snaps for lubrication...
Tube of chap stick works great for application
 
No, but it might not be a bad idea... I put Vaseline on the cockpit cover snaps for lubrication...
Tube of chap stick works great for application
Thanks,
I apply shurhold snap stick lubricant to the snaps, so gonna apply them to the gaskets when the time comes.
 
Suggest watch youtube video or buy one of Ed Shermans books from Amazon for boaters.
 

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