Winterize vs bilge heaters

[docmayo]

Any one have experience / recommendations for utilizing bilge heaters alone, versus bilge heaters + oil heating pads in order to boat year round and not winterize? Obviously, losing shore power and risk engine freezing is a big risk..
I boat on Lake Texoma and it does get below freezing a few times per year. Any comments on which heaters you recommend are welcome. Thanks.

 

[skolbe]

I winterize and use an Xtreme Bilge heater. Mainly to keep moisture down and as a safety precaution. I guess it depends on how hard it is to get to your boat if power is lost from an ice storm.

 

[ZZ13]

I am using the Xtreme 600W heater rather than winterizing my twin engines this year. First time I have done this. All the systems are winterized. I plugged up my engine room vents with foam. We have again had a mild winter so far where it has only been below 20 at night once or twice and daytime highs haven't been below 40 (maybe 38 once or twice). The heater is supposed to turn on at 40 degrees and off at 52. So far it hasn't been below 43 in the bilge based on my temp monitor. I remove the foam vent plugs and start and run both engines until they get to temp every other Sunday. Whenever a threatening freeze is predicted I planned to drain the block and manifolds as an extra precaution through that stretch. But so far haven't had to do that.

 

[skolbe]

The xtreme bilge heater seems to do a great job kicking on via the thermostat. I would think the heater can do a pretty good job keeping the bilge warm. Draining is the key if you can't get down for a period or lose power. I would personally consider winterizing the other systems.

 

[JimFromMD]

I am using the Xtreme 600W heater rather than winterizing my twin engines this year. First time I have done this. All the systems are winterized. I plugged up my engine room vents with foam. We have again had a mild winter so far where it has only been below 20 at night once or twice and daytime highs haven't been below 40 (maybe 38 once or twice). The heater is supposed to turn on at 40 degrees and off at 52. So far it hasn't been below 43 in the bilge based on my temp monitor. I remove the foam vent plugs and start and run both engines until they get to temp every other Sunday. Whenever a threatening freeze is predicted I planned to drain the block and manifolds as an extra precaution through that stretch. But so far haven't had to do that.

Hey Bill, just a question, because I've been noodling this one over for the last 2 seasons too. Are you not winterizing the engines because you want to be able to do an occasional cruise on the random warm winter day (like the 70 degree day we were supposed to have yesterday that didn't materialize)? If that's not the idea, based on what you've described and since you may eventually have to drain the blocks anyway, wouldnt it be more simple to have just run the pink through and not worry about it? I guess the other factor is that you're wet-slipped over the winter, where I'm on a lift which makes it easier to freeze too. I guess you are also avoiding the short haul fee to flush with pink via the outdrives?

 

[ZZ13]

Hey Bill, just a question, because I've been noodling this one over for the last 2 seasons too. Are you not winterizing the engines because you want to be able to do an occasional cruise on the random warm winter day (like the 70 degree day we were supposed to have yesterday that didn't materialize)? If that's not the idea, based on what you've described and since you may eventually have to drain the blocks anyway, wouldnt it be more simple to have just run the pink through and not worry about it? I guess the other factor is that you're wet-slipped over the winter, where I'm on a lift which makes it easier to freeze too. I guess you are also avoiding the short haul fee to flush with pink via the outdrives?

Initially it was financial "experiment" for this season. I had the dealer winterize the engines last year and it was $300 per engine plus $125 to tow back to the slip (I am at a different marina then the dealer and I am not including haulout cost because I get it hauled anyway for annual drive service). So a one time $380 purchase of a heater would eliminate that recurring cost. Then I got confident in just draining and filling the pink myself so that dealer savings is now no longer applicable. But now I get a thrill out of starting and running the engines regularly - so that is kinda fun. As far as going for a ride - I really wanted to several days but I have a Dec 1 - March 1 layup period in my insurance so I can't take it out and be covered - although there is a lot of crap floating in the beautiful pristine waters of the Potomac River this time of year so not sure I would take it out. I am going to check to see what it would do to my insurance premium to eliminate that layup period. So, cliff notes version: its an experiment for this year and I am finding it kinda fun to have the ability to run the engines and monitor/check the bilge

 

[dpmulvey]

Use the pads. The Xtreme will keep moisture at bay, but you still need to winterize. The pads will heat the entire block. With all that iron heated, it would have to get to glacier temps for several days constant to cause any damage. I know a fellow who uses pads and has winter ER hatches in his boat with vents. If he wants to stay on the boat on a winter weekend, he just opens the ER vents and the entire boat is heated.

I wish they made a USCG approved Gasoline model.

My 2 cents.

 

[matthewmiller01]

I had the 210SEL winterized for the years that I had it. When I got the 290DA, with twins, I bought the bilge heater the first winter. With twins, the cost for the heater was covered that first winter. I winterize the fresh water system and head myself and I leave the cabin heat on, set to the lowest setting, all winter. I usually plug the ER vents (but haven't yet this year). I love the cost savings and I love being able to boat year round. I can just head down to the boat and go out on a day cruise. I haven't yet installed the temperature sensors to monitor and/or record max and mins, but I am in the process. I don't live where the river has frozen (since I have been here, at least) but the air has been below freezing for multiple nights and days. I don't have heating pads.

i forget the model of my heater, but I found it to be a good deal when I bought it. Check my started threads for the brand and website.

 

[Southpaw II]

I've used a bilge heater on my last 3 boats. I don't winterize anything, but leave my boat heat system at 55 degrees. I get to the boat about every 7-10 days to crank it up and let the engines and genset get to temperature. Only one in the last 5 years has it gotton cold enough to freeze the Crusair heat system, and that was when the lake froze over. When that happened, I just put an electric heater in the cabin till things thawed a day or 2 later. I keep a thermometer in the cabin, and another remote in the ER to record minimum and maximum temps.

Don

 

[Xplicitlnck]

I have a question to ad to this. What do you use to cover the boat if you don't shrink it? I would imagine the winter months really take a tole on your summer canvas.

 

[docmayo]

Under a covered slip, and don't use any other coverings. Canvas still looks great.
Thanks for everyone's input. Installing extreme bilge heaters now. Still trying to decide whether or not to add the oil pan heating pads. I live about 2 1/2 hours away from my boat, so getting to it in an ice storm would be treacherous. Good advice I think on draining everything else.

 

[Southpaw II]

I'm in a covered slip as well. I normally install my (winter) canvas, which is the covering with the Eisenglass. Having that airspace provides a bit of additional insulation above the cockpit. This year I haven't done it yet.

Don

 

[matthewmiller01]

I have a question to ad to this. What do you use to cover the boat if you don't shrink it? I would imagine the winter months really take a tole on your summer canvas.

Summer canvas? My canvas comes off in late spring and stays off until late fall. I have the camper canvases. I also have a cockpit cover. It goes on occasionally in the spring and fall when I will be away for an extended period of time. Also, it's under a covered slip.

 

[Dave S]

I use a bilge heater in my 260DA and I am in a covered wet slip. If I loose power I still am not too concerned since the lake water is always above freezing and that alone tends to keep everything in the engine bay above freezing as well. Many people in our Marina don't even have bilge heaters and don't winterize their engines either and over the last 6 years I have been wet slipped not one of them has had any engine damage.

Dave

 

[Southpaw II]

It does get cold enough to freeze and break engine blocks where I live. The shop at our marina replaces several every year. This past weekend the air was in the mid-thirties, and the lake was still 47 degrees.

Don

 

[Uplate]

I have the Boatsafe 750 watt. Plug vents with foam. This year is the first year I have not run pink through AC and FW systems. We blew them out with air instead, and drained the HW tank. Only pink used was for Genny, shower sump, and head system.

As others mentioned, if it looks like it is going to get real bad I will go pull the blue plugs on engines and manifolds.

Have the temps remotely monitored from the Internet is real piece of mind. This year have not seen the ER go lower than 43 degrees.

Also have winter canvas up.

Last year my mechanic pinked the engines via muffs and the drives raised up to trailer mode. Seemed to work OK.

 

[matthewmiller01]

I have the Boatsafe 750 watt. Plug vents with foam. This year is the first year I have not run pink through AC and FW systems. We blew them out with air instead, and drained the HW tank. Only pink used was for Genny, shower sump, and head system.

As others mentioned, if it looks like it is going to get real bad I will go pull the blue plugs on engines and manifolds.

Have the temps remotely monitored from the Internet is real piece of mind. This year have not seen the ER go lower than 43 degrees.

Also have winter canvas up.

Last year my mechanic pinked the engines via muffs and the drives raised up to trailer mode. Seemed to work OK.

I got the wifi interface the other day and am about to purchase the Acu-rite temperature monitoring stuff. I can't wait to have that info and piece of mind.

Additionally, isn't it bad to leave the drives up in trailer for extended periods (bellows deformation)?

 

[Uplate]

I got the wifi interface the other day and am about to purchase the Acu-rite temperature monitoring stuff. I can't wait to have that info and piece of mind.

Additionally, isn't it bad to leave the drives up in trailer for extended periods (bellows deformation)?

Yes, that would be bad. We only raised them to get the muffs on, once pinked, they were lowered down.

 

[Larry&Leisa]

Doc,
im up on Keystone and for the past several years I've never winterized anything. I do shut the water off and open the faucets. Otherwise with an Extreme bilge heater and a cabin heater set to its lowest setting I've been able to enjoy many winter days out on the lake. If its going to be below 20 for several days ill plug the ER vents with foam. I have monitored the lowest, furthest point from the bilge heater and a couple winters ago when it stayed below zero those several days the coldest the ER got was 34.

And do you not maybe have a slip neighbor that lives closer who could start your genny if you lost shore power? There are about 5 of us here that look after one another's. Couple of them live in OKC, I'm in Enid ( although I'm at the Lakehouse most every week) , and a couple that live close to the marina. Get some phone numbers, install your heaters and enjoy the winter!

 

[docmayo]

Larry&Leisa,

That is great advice! We have several other sea ray owners next to us.
We just got this new slip and I haven't had a chance to meet hardly any one yet.
I am reassured that you haven't had any trouble on Keystone, Texoma should be fine.
Installing heaters AND oil pads this week.