Window frame leak

[Crave1957]

• 
  
• Hello,
  
  Another item. I am trying to figure out a leak on my starboard side thats rolls into the head naturally because its the low point. The track is dry forward but fills until it overflows in the rear of the track then spills into the head. I have installed marine gutter above the window frame but it does not seem to be the fix. Any ideas?
  
  Thx Mike​

  ​

 

[SCORPIO]

What condition is the rubber tracking the glass sits is? If its dry and brittle and falling apart, that could be some of the problem. Also, is this a new problem or has it existed for a while?
If its been doing this along time, check the following.

Between the fixed part of the window and the moving panel in the rear, there is a small piece of metal with a rubber insert that fits over the fixed panel. It should have 'fuzz' on one side, that fuzz needs to sandwich between the fixed and moving panels. It forms a seal that keeps water from coming between the panels and then running into the boat.
I had this happen on my 89 300DA. Somebody had reversed the fuzzy stuff and no seal was being made.

Also, be sure the weep slots in the track are open, they can clog with debris and cause the gutter to run full of water.

 

[Crave1957]

So question if the metal part with a rubber stopper is missing where might I find that part? Any ideas?
Thx

 

[Crave1957]

Its been a problem for awhile. The weep holes I can see but I can't see where they drain out to?
Thx

 

[SCORPIO]

The weep slots are under the gray plastic covers, they just drain the track out onto the deck. The rubber is called "Flocking" by Taylor Made Products in NY. It is available directly from them, not cheap but an exact fit.

Check that space between the two panels and see if a prior owner has reversed that material. Mine was and it leaked like a waterfall into the head during storms.

 

[KC_Sundancer]

Sounds like a weep hole draining issue. Remove the plastic covers and clean like previously posted. There is also a plastic dam that may not be sealed properly. This is something else you may want to check, some pictures are posted by pachangaboy in the Official (1982-1988) 270DA Tread on page 5. link: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/52504-Official-(1982-1988)-270DA-Thread/page5

 

[Crave1957]

I have studied this and am frustrated. Are the weep holes just the notches in the felt on the bottom of the track. Also, to replace felt and dams and rubber etc do you some how pull the windows or what? Sorry I could not get to the pachangaboy post> Search on this site I find to be hard hard. The link didn't work.
Thx Mike

 

[Pachanga Boy]

did someone say my name?:grin:
I believe this is the picture you guys are talking about. not sure if it was a common issue across the model lineup but definately an oddball one for the 270. I just used some silicone to create a makeshift dam. which is all the inner plexi peice really is.

 

[KC_Sundancer]

did someone say my name?:grin:
I believe this is the picture you guys are talking about.

Sure did and yes that's the picture-thanks!
Sorry about the link, trying to use my wifes tablet while out of town.:smt101

The weep holes are behind small rectangular pieces of plastic on the outside bottom part of the aluminum frame. Should have 2 screws holding them on. After removing and cleaning, be sure you put them back on with the opening down, that may even be the problem now. :huh:

 

[Crave1957]

Ok now that makes sense. I will study it again to see if I can make a dam like that! Question .... does your window still open just fine ?
Thx Mike

 

[Crave1957]

Thanks for the help KC. I will look for those weep holes now...and see what can be done!
Thx Mike

 

[Pachanga Boy]

Ok now that makes sense. I will study it again to see if I can make a dam like that! Question .... does your window still open just fine ?
Thx Mike

yup, the outer peice slides back and forth just as before. the inner peice is connected to the window frame. I have no idea why, but it's just a touch short from connecting to the front window (which doesn't slide). just make sure that you don't silicone the inner and out together and you'll be fine.
aonther picture if it helps

 

[KC_Sundancer]

Thanks for the help KC. I will look for those weep holes now...and see what can be done!
Thx Mike

You're welcome. The missing dam would explain alot regardless of plugged weep holes. Good luck!

 

[Crave1957]

Man I have been racking my brain on this one. Spoke with Taylor Made and studied some diagrams that they sent. In making sure I do not turn this into a bigger project than it is here is what I know. 1) the window frame/frames seem to be bedded just fine as there is no water anywhere but in the head 2) flocking and rubber could be old but appears to be sufficient and replacing them seems to be be a big project for one that has zero experience in this area 3) vertical piece on the window (which slides outside) is rubber and looks ok 4) weep holes are on the outside of track and the one in the rear is ok MY CONCLUSION (probably incorrect) is has to be this dam thing. Hoping I can silicon from where the vertical rubber ends down I am thinking the gap should only be as high as the track separating inside from outside? Comments
Mike

 

[SCORPIO]

Look forward from inside the head at the place where the sliding panel moves past the fixed panel. See if you see a gap there. I could slide a pocket comb thru the gap on mine which is why so much water was getting into the head. If there is no gap, you may have an issue with that dam. Mine was there but water overflowed due to that gap I mentioned.

Also, I had to put some holes into the rubber flocking so the water running aft down the track could get out of the flocking and enter the aluminum frame and exit via the weep slots.

To remove the flocking, all I did was start at the bow end of the window and begin pulling the old out with a small screwdriver. Mine was so old and brittle that it was like a beer pretzel. I actually had to tap the screwdriver with a hammer to break up the old stuff and dig it out. Once the old is removed and the track cleaned, the new stuff just slides into the track. Start at the front and feed it aft. Some WD-40 worked nicely to lube the track and allow it to slide into place. I didn't need to remove the window to do this, but after the bottom section of flocking was out I did remove the panel so it wouldn't fall out of the frame. Easy to reinstall after top flock installed.

I did both windows on my 300 in a less than a day.

 

[Crave1957]

So if I were to drill holes in the inside track in the head area does that water then fall inside the frame and go underneath the tracks and drain thru weep holes on the outside? If so that is my answer!

I have been worried that if I drill the inside track I would be into fiberglass...hoping there is a gap underneath

Mike

 

[SCORPIO]

If you make holes, ONLY make them in the rubber track. It is shaped like a the letter "H" in cross section. The glass runs on the top of the "H" and there is a space underneath where water can run out. I made some holes in the rubber to allow water to get under the "H" and find its way out of the aluminum frame via the weep slots.

 

[KC_Sundancer]

If you make holes, ONLY make them in the rubber track. It is shaped like a the letter "H" in cross section. The glass runs on the top of the "H" and there is a space underneath where water can run out. I made some holes in the rubber to allow water to get under the "H" and find its way out of the aluminum frame via the weep slots.

+1 on that - DO NOT DRILL ANY ALUMININUM :smt018

 

[Crave1957]

I still can't solve this leak I think my window frames are different I have no visible covers on the outside and have checked dams etc......its driving me crazy but I am out of ideas. Any comments are appreciated :smt038

I have uploaded photos to ....the photobucket link below
Thx Mike

 

[Tritone]

Look forward from inside the head at the place where the sliding panel moves past the fixed panel. See if you see a gap there. I could slide a pocket comb thru the gap on mine which is why so much water was getting into the head. If there is no gap, you may have an issue with that dam. Mine was there but water overflowed due to that gap I mentioned.

Also, I had to put some holes into the rubber flocking so the water running aft down the track could get out of the flocking and enter the aluminum frame and exit via the weep slots.

To remove the flocking, all I did was start at the bow end of the window and begin pulling the old out with a small screwdriver. Mine was so old and brittle that it was like a beer pretzel. I actually had to tap the screwdriver with a hammer to break up the old stuff and dig it out. Once the old is removed and the track cleaned, the new stuff just slides into the track. Start at the front and feed it aft. Some WD-40 worked nicely to lube the track and allow it to slide into place. I didn't need to remove the window to do this, but after the bottom section of flocking was out I did remove the panel so it wouldn't fall out of the frame. Easy to reinstall after top flock installed.

I did both windows on my 300 in a less than a day.

Thanks for the description. I have the same boat as you and my flocking is just as you describe. But I am unclear on how you get the new stuff in there. So you're saying that you can just slide it in under the window? Without seeing it I am having trouble imagining how it looks. Is there no flocking around the perimeter? Just the bottom? What seals the top of the sliding window?

Tritone