Windlass or not?

CoralReefer

CoralReefer

New Member
Mar 26, 2008
685
Nashville, TN
Boat Info
1987 250 Sundancer
Engines
260 Mercruiser w/Alpha I
I've been considering adding a windlass. The thought of being able to drop anchor from the helm is appealing. I currently have a teak pulpit with standard bow cleats and stock anchor locker. Mostly boating by myself, it's a pain in the @$$ to maneuver, climb out on bow, drop anchor and set...not to mention if there's a high wind or current.

Should I just bite the bullet and go windlass?
 
Should I just bite the bullet and go windlass
Click to expand...
YES !!, Once you go windlass you'll never go back to manhandling a anchor again. :smt038
 
I'm sure its easier said than done. Its a very nice feature no doubt, but adding one will carry a hefty price. Between the price of the unit, new rode, hardware. Just sayin. If you go forward, I'm sure it will be nice though.
 
It's a nice thing to have. With my setup, there's also a short length of cable that secures the anchor once it's up, so the windlass isn't holding the anchor under tension. So, lowering the anchor still requires me to go out and unhook that before I lower it (using the foot switches out at the bow, which half the time I forget to power up before going out there...). So, you may still have to go out there. The manual for the windlass recommends this type of setup.
 
Thanks for the responses. I'm about 50/50 on the idea. I don't mind the labor of dropping or pulling. The folks I take out know nothing about boating so I can't really ask them for help and expect results. I'm going to keep watch for a good deal and may go for it before Spring. I've seen several setups with the foot switches. Is anyone out there using a hand held remote?
 
Teach them - I have a 270 Sundancer and a 400EC. The 270 doesn't have a windlass. Most of the time I can do it by myself. However, I decided to teach my wife how to operate the boat while I dropped the anchor. I also showed her how to drop the anchor in case of rough weather. I worked out well.
The 400EC has the foot switches. Haven't used the switches or the anchor, only b/c we just got the boat in Oct. Not sure if we have a remote. Could I just don't know yet. So I am praying for an early summer start!!!
 
My previous boat did not have windless and we went to the beach alot so my wife operated the boat when I did the anchor. With my new 32 with windless it is a breeze, if I know we are going to the beach I unhook the safety cable at the dock and head to the beach drop the anchor from the helm and when we head in I pull the anchor from the helm if some one is on the bow I have them hook the safety latch If not i just keep an eye on it and get it at the dock. Now that I have it I will not be without it.
 
Don't take my post wrong. I agree with these guys about having one. I have watched my father-in-law, my friends and other boaters that have a windlass. Sooo much easier. And that pulling the anchor is getting to be a pain in the back!!!
I can only comment on what I have done without having a windlass. Give me 120 days from today when I am back in the water and hopefully I comment on having used one on my new boat. Bottom line - Get it!!!
 
I've been considering a windlass as well for the same reasons. Not to hijack this thread, but can anyone suggest some good windlass manufacturers? I have a 240DA.
 
As Scott said above.
The idea of being able drop the anchor from the helm is great, but....
being able to retrieve the anchor from the helm in sometimes dicey situations is the reason to have one.

Where we boat and anchor ( sometimes the same areas as Scott) there maybe 50-100 boats side by side, stern in at the beach.
After we retrieve our stern anchors we are at the mercy of the winds and boat movement.

Being able to power up and drive up and over the anchor assures us of not getting into a BAD situation with the nearby boaters.

By all means go for it.

Dan
 
As posted by several others, yes! :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for all the responses. I'll start the research process for installation and for the right unit. Since I'd probably mount on anchor locker door I'm sure I'll need to strenghthen it to hold the weight of the unit and to be able to hold the force from the retrieval. I've seen other threads were people use wood backing under the locker door or entire width of the anchor locker to make nice, sturdy mount. I'm going to see if there's any pics of this type of setup. I made an nice anchor locker door out of starboard for my 260 that came out great. I might fabricate something that's more solid than the factory locker door.
 
Yeah, one last thing - We are going to need to see some pictures of this windlass. And on the boat - :thumbsup:
 
Someone one this thread asked for recommendations on windlass manufacturers... If I were looking for a windlass, I would buy one that can take both chain and rope. The motor on my current windlass in mounted under the deck... My old 300 had a Good Windlass, which was has motor mounted above the deck... Check to see where you plan on mounting it, then look for manufacturers...
 
Put me in the camp of "Get it".

One of the first times out I anchored for a few hours it started RAIN nice and hard. And it was past sunset. It was time to go home! I tell you what. . not having the skipper going out on the foredeck in those conditions was a definate safety feature.
 
Hi All,

I work for the windlass manfacturer Quick. Sea Ray are currently using our windlass' on all models.
Feel free to pm, call, or e-mail me with any questions.
813-753-9439
bgivens@quickusa.com

Safe and Happy Boating!

bg
 
Check out my project in the "90s 270 DA windlass retrofit II" thread. This project will cost more than most expect. The first item that surprised me was how much power cables cost for that length and the time to fish them through the boat as the batteries are at the stern and windlass is as far away as you can get. I chose to upgrade the cables from minimum required to avoid voltage drop and get full power from the windlass.

I was able to cut a hole in the wall behind the mirror in the cabin to gain access under the deck and locker door. The door was reinforced to support the windlass and screwed through the lip into the surrounding deck. Then the door was sealed with 5200. I was able to fill the door latch with one of the foot switches.

I got the Lewmar on price match at West Marine at a great price. DO NOT SKIMP ON RODE. The rope chain windlass will work better with a 8 plait line. Expect $1500-2000 in parts for this project if done right and searching for the best prices.

MM
 
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