windlass install on late 80's 250DA? (1986 specifically)

boatman37

Well-Known Member
Jun 6, 2015
4,256
pittsburgh
Boat Info
2006 Crownline 250CR. 5.7 Merc BIII
Previous: 1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer. 260 Merc Alpha 1 Gen 1
Engines
5.7 Merc BIII
anyone installed a windlass on one of these? i'm thinking about it but only if i can get a good price on used parts and it isn't too difficult. i was looking yesterday and i don't think it will be too difficult? i'm sure the bigger boats are similar. running wires along starboard side to helm, through switches, and through head and v-berth cabinet. the only place that looks like an issue is the trim strip towards the front of the v-berth between the cabinets and the anchor locker (maybe 3-4 ft strip). if that strip comes off easily enough then i would think the rest would be pretty easy?

i would plan to install a large backer board under the deck where the windlass would sit.
 
anyone installed a windlass on one of these? i'm thinking about it but only if i can get a good price on used parts and it isn't too difficult. i was looking yesterday and i don't think it will be too difficult? i'm sure the bigger boats are similar. running wires along starboard side to helm, through switches, and through head and v-berth cabinet. the only place that looks like an issue is the trim strip towards the front of the v-berth between the cabinets and the anchor locker (maybe 3-4 ft strip). if that strip comes off easily enough then i would think the rest would be pretty easy?

i would plan to install a large backer board under the deck where the windlass would sit.

No response so I'm posting what I did on our 85 270DA for ideas:
On ours I took the anchor locker hatch away and replaced the existing pulpit with a longer one covering the opening. To securely attach and spread the windlass load; I used (3) bolts through the deck with a backing plate and (2) angles across the hatch opening. The angles "clamp" the aft end to the deck using the threaded rods from the windlass. I also wired the windlass with a reversing breaker so I can add controls on the deck at a later date.

picture2.jpg
 
Interested in what you com up with boatman. Planning on installing one myself on my 245 not too far down the road. Have to get some other things out of the way first. Post some pics if you don't mind.
Nice job KC. Does your anchor drop on it's own or do you have to get it started?
 
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nice KC. where did you get the wood plank? is it original?

i haven't even started on this project yet and not sure i will even follow through with it. i know next to nothing about all the parts and pieces required. i really don't want to spend over $1000 for a new setup as i only plan on having the boat another year before moving up. if i can buy everything and install for $300-500 then i may try it but without knowing all the pieces i would hate to start it and find i need a $300 part to complete it. i would like to find a donor boat that i can buy the whole setup from
 
Look upon anchoring without a windless as a gym membership. Hardly worth it for a year. We (the wife) did it by hand for 5 years. Not happy when I could not set it the first time down.
 
yeah. just did it by hand again today...lol. not too bad but it is a pain
 
nice KC. where did you get the wood plank? is it original?

The new teak pulpit was made by Ship Shop Marine Carpentry in Fort Pierce Florida (772-215-9925). They did an excellent job for about half the price I found anywhere else in the country. I finished it with 5 coats of Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.

Thornton69
Nice job KC. Does your anchor drop on it's own or do you have to get it started?

Thanks. I have to unlock the chain safety latch I installed, hit the down button for 2 seconds then it free-falls.

I have 30 feet of chain and 300 feet of 8 plait rode. The 8 plait is more flexible and falls into the smaller locker better. I'm guessing the 250DA locker is limited in size too.

I got a deal on the windlass but it still cost me about $1,700 all together with the wiring and new pulpit.
We often anchor in 200 feet of water while fishing so it was definitely worth it.
 
The new teak pulpit was made by Ship Shop Marine Carpentry in Fort Pierce Florida (772-215-9925). They did an excellent job for about half the price I found anywhere else in the country. I finished it with 5 coats of Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss.



Thanks. I have to unlock the chain safety latch I installed, hit the down button for 2 seconds then it free-falls.

I have 30 feet of chain and 300 feet of 8 plait rode. The 8 plait is more flexible and falls into the smaller locker better. I'm guessing the 250DA locker is limited in size too.

I got a deal on the windlass but it still cost me about $1,700 all together with the wiring and new pulpit.
We often anchor in 200 feet of water while fishing so it was definitely worth it.

Going to have to look into the 8 plait rode when it comes time for ours. Hoping to fit about 450' of rode in there. Currently doing the pulling with a buoy. Can get a bit exciting when it blows up off shore.
 
Going to have to look into the 8 plait rode when it comes time for ours. Hoping to fit about 450' of rode in there. Currently doing the pulling with a buoy. Can get a bit exciting when it blows up off shore.


Been there with the bouy trick in rough seas - gets old but still better than pulling the anchor up by hand.

Not sure if your locker is bigger than our 270DA but 450' might be difficult.
We are pushing the limit with the 30' chain and 300' rode. 99% of the time there is no issue but I have had to fix the stack a time or two because of it piling up.
You need a certain amount of drop below the windlass for the rode to play out properly.
i was originally hoping for around 500' but there was no way it would work - more chain allowed us to shorten the scope and still get a hook.

You could test it by lowering a line straight down through a 4 to 6 inch ring of some sort and see how it plays out and how much you can fit.
 

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