Why Shrink Wrap?

[rondds]

a friend of mine posed this question on sunday while we all sat around the marina solving the world's problems. it is expensive (some would say overpriced), it is wasteful, and it doesnt do a very good job of keepting the boat clean. UV light, you say? what about the UV exposure that warm-climate boats boats get all year around?. they arent EVER covered clear down to the water line? so, outside of keeping the snow off, which could be accomplished with a well-made and well supported bridge and/or cockpit cover, why shrink wrap??:huh:

thoughts, comments...

 

[CSR_Admin]

Because its quick and easy.

 

[Against The Wind]

Here's Some info that may help :
http://www.boatshrink.com/tips-faqs.htm#moisture

 

[Henry Boyd]

Ron,

Down in temperate NJ you might be able use a blue tarp tent. Here in New England, a tarp tent has to be so solid that it exceeds the cost of shrink wrap.

All you have to do is spend some cold day pulling the 30 pound ice cubes out of the depressions in the tarp, and you are sold on shrink wrap. In the past twenty winters; problems with tarps 4 out of 4, problems with shrinkwrap 0 out of 16.

Ok I'm not the brightest bulb on the Christmas tree, every once in a while I think I can make it work.

Henry

 

[avguy]

When Searay replaced the entire deck of our boat they threw in a lot of free "sorry for your trouble" stuff one of which was one of their transport covers.

I will say when I removed the cover this spring I was pretty impressed by how clean the interior of the boat had remained over the winter. Even got it off without tearing it up so it'll be put back on here shortly.

 

[Mr Salt]

Remember the people in the warmer climates can wax their boat all year round. We up north can't do that so the shrink wrap performs some protection over the winter months. If you leave the canvas up all year to protect the interior the canvas will deteriote much more quickly than if you take it down and cover the boat with something else. Having said all of that I am not a fan of shrink wrap, unless it is recyled.

Mr Salt
2001 540 CPMY
Caterpillar C-12s
Cape May NJ

 

[Jack380AC]

The most compelling answer I got to this question was that keeping moister out of any and all nooks and crannys (highly sophisticated nautical terminology), especially where any fasteners or deck hardware meets the deck/fiberglass, prevents the possibility of expansion and resulting damage during freezing temperatures. This sounded like a good investment to me since I plan to keep the boat a long time a nd hopefully as bristol as possible.

 

[brad10281]

I shrinkwrapped the first year and after removing the wrapping found that the stainless cleats and hull/gunwales were all scuffed up from it. The last two years it has been in my garage over the winter and will again be retired to the garage soon.

 

[comsnark]

I am personally very unconvinced regarding the merits of shrinkwrapping. It just seems WAY too expensive.

There are a number of advocates of custom tarp covers on this forum. They make a compelling case. The blue tarps CAN work. . but you have to support the cover properly so you don't get pooling. And you have to tie it properly so it doesn't blow off.

I would not advocate setting in October and not looking at it till May. A quick check every few weeks will see you through.

 

[RubberDuckeeToo2]

I agree that shrink wrap seems wasteful and needlessly expensive. Maybe I'm cheap and maybe if I ever tried it, I might like it better. But I've been using the KoverKlamp system for about ten years both on my current boat and my last one.

So it may have cost $300 - $400 to set up the framework the first year, but it is entirely reusable and reconfigurable. I got a great tarp from them last year. It is very durable and you can cut it to fit like a custom cover. I got the black cover to take advantage of the sun to melt off the snow, but you can get white or clear as well.

I like to make an investment one time and not pay year after year to cover the boat.

Gene

 

[Sundancer]

This will be my 6th year on a 60 x 40 silver/black truckers tarp. It's got nylon straps every four feet and cost me a WHOPPING $95 bucks when I bought it back in 2021. I built an A frame out of 2 x 4's that sits over the windshield with spines over the foredeck and cockpit. I run support ropes from the spine to the railing and then cover it with the tarp. I tie the tarp to the trailer and I'm done. Takes about an hour to setup and even less time to take down in the spring. It sheds the snow and rain and I don't have any cuts or holes in it yet. It covers the boat on all sides with no exposure. I can get underneath it to work on it if I need too or just to sit in the drivers seat and make engine noises. Of course, that was on the 250 DA. . . I'm hoping to use the same tarp on the 300 DA. I just need to re-engineer the A frame or take advantage of the arch. It's too early to be thinking about this! I still have some more weekends to get out and boat!!

 

[Woody]

I actually planned to build a big storage bldg/shop for my boat and other things this summer. It first started out being 20'x40' but grew into 40'x80' as I decided to do other things with it. Unfortunately I had a problem with line blockages and my pump(boat lingo) this summer and didn't feel up to it. Good thing in the end because I think I'm going to make it bigger anyway. So this winter I'll tarp it one more time.

 

[J Levine]

I agree that shrink wrap seems wasteful and needlessly expensive. Maybe I'm cheap and maybe if I ever tried it, I might like it better. But I've been using the KoverKlamp system for about ten years both on my current boat and my last one.

So it may have cost $300 - $400 to set up the framework the first year, but it is entirely reusable and reconfigurable. I got a great tarp from them last year. It is very durable and you can cut it to fit like a custom cover. I got the black cover to take advantage of the sun to melt off the snow, but you can get white or clear as well.

I like to make an investment one time and not pay year after year to cover the boat.

Gene

This company has never come to my attention. Very interesting option thanks for the idea. Looks like the kit, the 300 feet of EMT and the cover would still cost me less than one shrink wrap job. Do you have any pictures of your 370 under this cover system?

 

[dpvandy01]

Shrink wrapped the 280 for the first time ever last season and it spent the off season in Cincinnati Sea Ray's lot.... still very dirty but I was pleased with the protection from the snow. This year it's back to the barn with the horses and all of their freakin dust... blue tarps but no UV and no snow... Damn those horses and their dust:smt021

 

[Alex F]

Remember the people in the warmer climates can wax their boat all year round. We up north can't do that so the shrink wrap performs some protection over the winter months.

I totally agree that a cover or shrinkwrap provides protection from rain, snow, dust, UV and everything else while you have limited access to the boat to keep it clean and safe. It's also critical to keep the water out preventing chances to expend when teps drop below freezing.

I think Jim had nailed the primary reason for shrinkwrap, quick and easy, while with custom covers you have to do all the work mostly and it takes some time.

I personally prefer covers over shrinkwrap. Here's my setup on 240DA and I plan on having similar for my 320DA.

 

[Sundancer]

I totally agree that a cover or shrinkwrap provides protection from rain, snow, dust, UV and everything else while you have limited access to the boat to keep it clean and safe. It's also critical to keep the water out preventing chances to expend when teps drop below freezing.

I think Jim had nailed the primary reason for shrinkwrap, quick and easy, while with custom covers you have to do all the work mostly and it takes some time.

I personally prefer covers over shrinkwrap. Here's my setup on 240DA and I plan on having similar for my 320DA.

I have a very similar idea for the 300 DA! The 11 foot beam and arch will be a challenge, but I'm thinking the pipe will be easier to work with and won't have any sharp corners like the 2 x 4's did. I just need a slightly steeper angle to shed the snow or I could spray the tarp with silicone! I like the picture of the framework! NICE!!! More green balls for you!!

 

[Alex F]

Thanks Sundancer,

As you can imagine, it takes a little while to get it setup, but I've used color coded tags with numbers to help identify what goes where. It helps a lot and makes the installation process faster. I hope the new owner of my 240 will be able to understand the idea (I did my best to expain it to him).

I'm waiting to get my custom cover and then I'll start designing frame for my 320DA.

Alex.

 

[comsnark]

Alex;

I currently use a 2x4 system for my boat. That is not the best, however, and the amount of screws I am using is ridiculous.

I am thinking to swtich to the PVC system. How are you securing those joints? Are they just loose fit? Duct taped? Glued? I image they need to be loose so that you can disassemble the system in the off season.

 

[rondds]

friends with cruiser type (low slung) boats just fit the joints together. my boat didnt last a week with that type of connection. i predrill a hole on either side of the flange of the tee and drive an ordinary sheetrock screw in on each side. this is how i connect the pieces that make up the "spine." to keep the ribs in place, i drill holes in each rib and in the spine and wire it together with regular copper #12 wire. the ligatures give the frame some sway. the wind resistance that i create is obscene and if the cover didnt have a bit of movement, the boat'd probably take off. you may be able to see the black wire holding the ribs to the spine as well as the screws in the flanges in this photo. btw, the ribs are held to the bowrail using ordinary clear stretch wrap that you can buy in staples.

 

[Alex F]

Alex;

I currently use a 2x4 system for my boat. That is not the best, however, and the amount of screws I am using is ridiculous.

I am thinking to swtich to the PVC system. How are you securing those joints? Are they just loose fit? Duct taped? Glued? I image they need to be loose so that you can disassemble the system in the off season.

comsnark,
I have only glued the "Ts" and elbows to a single leg (either side) just to prevent loosing smaller components, which will impact the setting up time. Everything else is just slide-in method. It's pretty hard to get those all the way in, so nothing else is needed to keep connections in place. None of the piping will get loose b/c when the cover is on it will keep everything in place by it's weight. I also use few pieces of ropes to tie few legs to rail or whatever is available, just to keep them better in place. As you can see in the picture Ron had posted, I also use this type of method to secure the top part of the frame to the rails.