Waxes & cleaners

[BSenzina]

Well, from a previous post it sees the Porter Cable polisher is pretty popular. I am SOOOOOO glad I wont be renting a buffer this year....oh the soreness ! ! ! :smt021

So now, what brands of polishes/waxes/cleaners do you guys like?
With the weather finally cooking off, my thoughts turn to bringing back that showroom shine. If tis some special brand, pleaee include the websight. THANKS ! !

 

[PMvdb395DA]

Hello Bsenzina,

Here you got a link to a post here on CSR to wax and polish topic.

http://www.byowneryachts.com/forums...1&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Succes Peter

 

[First Born]

My program which I stole from someone on SRO contains the following...I hear for best results you should always wear bunny slippers while doing the work :huh: Some people do not like the wash and go for something a little tougher but it helps to keep the wax on the boat.

http://www.meguiars.com/estore/

Boat wash: Safely removes grime and dirt. Refreshing scent. Biodegradable.

Color Restorer: Safely removes light oxidation, stains and blemishes on all fiberglass and painted marine or RV surfaces. Revives faded, oxidized surfaces to their original vibrant color.

Polish: Creates a brilliant high gloss finish. Restores optimal gloss on fiberglass and painted marine or RV surfaces after cleaning. Restores valuable oils to feed and nourish the fiberglass or painted surfaces. Especially effective on dark colors.

Wax: Durable high gloss protection for fiberglass and all painted surfaces. Blend of pure Brazilian carnauba wax with silicones, polymers and resins to maintain extraordinary gloss and protection. Protects against the sun's ultraviolet rays.

I am sure others will chime in but I think there are several that say Meguiars is the best. Good luck with it. :thumbsup:

Wesley

 

[Dave M.]

Here is a nice link to use of the Porter Cable on cars. I think it gives some good tips, but there is one bad one that I want to point out.

DON"T leave your polisher sitting pad down, with the pad pushed off at an angle towards the handle. Doing so just invites the pad and backing to take a set at that angle. Leave the pad pointed up when the polisher is not in use.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-pc7424.html

 

[BSenzina]

OHHHHHHH ! ! I see how it is....You are a Bunny Slipper kinda guys huh???? To each his/her own ,but i am partial to the clown shoes and glasses/nose/moustache combo myself. :smt021
Thanks for the tips ! ! :smt038

 

[tc410]

Only "wheeled-on" 3M Finesse-It followed by random-orbital applied 3M UV marine wax for me. I use a foam applicator on my variable speed rotary polishing wheel for those that were wondering (or care) if I use foam or wool pads.

 

[BSenzina]

OK...now i am really corn-frused... :huh: ..You used a foam pad to put the polish on??? I have no clue when it comes to this kind of thing. Last time i used wool on/wool off. Does the foam pad "rub" harder to clean off the oxidation??? :smt021 I need to remove some mild oxidation before i wax. I REALLY want to do this job right. Doing a 31 alone is rough enough, so i only want to do it once. Someone please give me some tips. Remove Oxidation with the foam pad and buff up with the wool or how?? :smt017

 

[Dave S]

OK...now i am really corn-frused... :huh: ..You used a foam pad to put the polish on??? I have no clue when it comes to this kind of thing. Last time i used wool on/wool off. Does the foam pad "rub" harder to clean off the oxidation??? :smt021 I need to remove some mild oxidation before i wax. I REALLY want to do this job right. Doing a 31 alone is rough enough, so i only want to do it once. Someone please give me some tips. Remove Oxidation with the foam pad and buff up with the wool or how?? :smt017

Check out the "how to" links I gave in this posting................these will be real helpful in answering your questions http://www.byowneryachts.com/forums/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1030&highlight=

And I hate to say this, but if your oxidation is bad enough, you may have to use a Rotary Polisher first to bring the finish back.

 

[rktktpaul]

New question! Wax to the water line or below it?

 

[190SigSeaRay]

From what I remember back at SOR, it's not a good idea to wax below the water line, because it can affect overall peformance by increasing drag on the hull.

Paul

 

[EKM]

I'm sure you'll gets lots of opinions but I buy a gallon container of the below product and it last for years....last time I bought it was 20 bucks or so. My top coat wax is airplane wax which I don't remember the name (on the boat). But Meguirs fine cut will clean it up fast too.

MEGUIARS MIRROR GLAZE FINE-CUT CLEANER #2

 

[STIHLBOLTS]

Mcguire's does the trick for me. :grin: Bunny Slippers are optional on second Tuesdays after the full moon and when the Bud Light is just cold enough.

Unlike the others I don't use a Porter Cable polisher. I sell Hitachi power tools so I bought their polisher. Pistol grip, tee handle, variable speed. I don't know if it's better or worse than the Porter Cable, it just does the trick for me. :thumbsup:

Our "Wax and Wash" guru flies out once a year and washes and 10 step waxs and polishes my boat for me. It was part of the golden parachute retirement plan I contracted before SRO closed up. (I got some beach front retirement property in Florida to sell you for only $10k if you believe that).

 

[ImpulseIII]

If it were not for the bunny slippers...your boat would not look nearly as beautiful as it does! I am still shopping for a pair so ImpulseIII can shine like yours. :smt038 2 degrees here in southeastern PA this morning...what happened to global warming??? :smt017 I want it back.

 

[280 SeaRay]

Frank..... you buy dinner I will come help polish and wax :smt001 I cannot help you at 2 degrees... as I would not know what to do in that kind of weather... I dont think my freezer is that cold... :grin:

I have a pair of bunny slippers thanks to the guy with the $10k waterfront property. How did I know the bunny slipper thing would never die..... hahahaha :smt043 I would be happy to come out and use your Hitachi as well sir.

and how did I miss this one when Wesley pulled it out of the closet and dusted the "slippers" off.

I have really enjoyed the meguiars line.... I have been experiementing with a couple of new items lately that I like as well....

 

[Dancin Dave]

meguires cleaner wax after washing the boat and then the mequires wax both by machine leaves the boat looking brand new. I had it done at the new year and will have it done again early April and the stainless gets the same treatment.

 

[Alex D]

Ipositively swear by Meguiar's Flagship Boat Wax. This is actually a polymer and not a true wax. I wax the boat once in the spring and wash it with Starbrite Wash & Wax (the only one I found to work well), which is absolutely fabulous too because alos polymer based and it lasts! This way I do not need to wax my boat more than once a year and still don't get waterspots while the hull looks like new.

 

[Bottom Line]

I used Meguiars products last year...I was pleased with their performance. I am curious...what is the difference between marine products and car products? I have a good shine on my boat, but I have seen other boats that almost appear to be "wet" ...an excellent shine.

 

[280 SeaRay]

the wet look is attained by polishing with a good polish with lots-o-polishing oils

Many of the folks around my area (and I suspect other areas as well) simply wax their boats once a year. A wax is made to protect the surface from contaminents (making it harder to stick and damage the surface) and UV damage, etc while making dirt grime and othr crud that falls out of the air easier to clean off the boat. Some waxes are "hybrids" containing cleaning agents or polishing agents.... which help to bring back the wet look but will not get fantastic results. I am of the opinion that all-in-one products or what I like to call short cut products can provide decent results but not fantastic results.

I personally believe in using separate distinct steps with separate products meant to be the best at that step. The following is the process that I like to use

1. Wash - This is washing your boat with a good quality boat soap often. I like once a week.
2. Inspect - Take a careful look at the condition of the gel coat in good light. Spend some time marking areas of attention with a grease pencil or painters tape. On my current 280 I spend about an hour on inspection.
3. Clay - This is a recent newbie to my process. I have always clayed my cars to remove bonded on contaminents and I liked my results on the boat as well (now that my current boat is stored outside)... it was pulling stuff off the gel and did make the surface smoother so I added it to the process. This would use a good quality clay kit with recommended lubriscant
4. Clean - This is where you would clean all or remove all of the surface defects. It dock rash, scratches, dings, oxidation, etc. This step is not always needed which would be determined in step #2
5. Polish - This is where you bring home the wet look. Now that the surface is free from junk due to the previous steps you have performed. A good polishing with a DA polisher, polishing pad, and a polish rich in polishing oils will leave the surface as smooth or smoother than you could every believe was possible.... silk smooth... baby butt smooth.
6. Wax - Whew... now that you are done with the hard work the wax is applied to protect that beautiful wet finish you just created.... I like 2 very thin coats of wax to be applied.... I will do this by hand... or with the DA polisher and a finishing pad.... work the first very thin coat of wax into the finish and let dry or haze per the directions on the bottle. Then remove completely with good quality microfiber towels..... then repeat. Now sit your exhausted butt down and admire your work.
7. Maintain - I like to maintain the finish by using a good quality quick detailer to remove water spots and build up after a trip on the boat. A good rinse with the hose to wash away all the dirt (which can scratch under a microfiber or terry cloth) then a nice application of the quick detailer.

A couple of things to remember.... this is not a race... and this is not a 1-2 day project. I find that I spend 40-50 man hours completing steps 2 through 6 on my 280DA. This obviously cannot be done at a single time... so I wash -->inspect --> clay --> clean(as needed) --> polish and wax sections at a time.

I like you really enjoy the wet look..... a flawless finish is the only way to float on my boat but it takes a good deal of time... and hard work.... but just think.. it is a great workout (this gets credit with the wife).... and your spending time on the boat... does it get much better?

*** My disclaimer... most people here, neighbors, and local friends think I am nuts and very over the top in regard to my finish care practices. I admit I am a nut.... but if it is worth being done... it is worth being done right IMHO of course. :smt001

 

[First Born]

I have adopted Jeremy's clean boat program and will say I am very satisfied. The trick that I have found is to stay on top of it. Do not let it get to a point where the boat looks bad and it is easy to keep it looking great. Set up a routine that works for you to keep it in top shape at all times. I still get laughs from friends when they are waiting inside the house to go out to the lake because I am washing the boat (which just came out of the garage) and as soon as we get back start washing it again. But they never complain about riding around in a clean boat :huh:

I have Jeremy's complete program on the wall out in the garage and will paste it here later on (I will leave out the part about the bunny slippers :lol: ). That is the only thing I saved from the other site. Thanks again for all the tips on keeping the boat looking great Jeremy!!!

Wesley