Water / Oil Mix. - Heads off... Brown Mayo Clean up? Fill Block Diesel

[JohnEGraham]

Hi, Had bad Water into the Oil Leak which is being fixed. The Aftermath is a semi thick Mayonnaise on everything. stuck under the intake manifolds, gunk from the top to the bottom of the Distributor:smt089 ( all Removed ) Going to try to suck the observable gunk off the top surfaces of the motor...
MY QUESTION: Can I fill the Block, sitting in my boat with Diesel or Kerosene for an Hour / Day? to try to Dissolve the mess inside the block, then use the Extractor to pull it out? I could Crank the Motor by hand to get the Mix to agitate... and of course than I would than and do a couple of Oil Changes before putting the motor back together.
Will I do more harm? Whats in the Engine that the gunk could now float up to
As a test: I thinking of putting some of this gunk in a bucket with the Diesel as a test to see how long it will take to dissolve and than use the Extractor.
Thanks

 

[northern]

If you fill an engine with a liquid that has no lubricating ability and is also a solvent you will remove any lubricants between wear surfaces. Then when you replace the solvent with oil you will have a time when the wear surfaces are run metal to metal. With watery oil you still have some lubricant. Changing the oil several times should remove the water and sludge to the point the remaining water is minimal and will evaporate. That is what I did when I got salt water in one engine when a cooler failed. All is still well after running the engine 1,000 hours or so. i

 

[fwebster]

Changing the oil several times does work. The idea is to run the engine a few minutes after each oil change to get the water mixed with the lube oil. The last step in the process, after you get essentially clean oil on the last change is to refill the engine then run it for several hours at operating temperature under load to "boil off" any remaining oil that might be trapped in the engine.

 

[SloBurn]

Changing the oil several times does work. The idea is to run the engine a few minutes after each oil change to get the water mixed with the lube oil. The last step in the process, after you get essentially clean oil on the last change is to refill the engine then run it for several hours at operating temperature under load to "boil off" any remaining oil that might be trapped in the engine.

I have done this to 3 different motors, Merc 7.4L, Merc 5.0L, and a Honda 440 quad(don't ask). It worked for all 3, and they ran for many happy hours after.
After first change-run for 5 minutes, 10 for the second, 20 minutes for the 3rd, and finally, run for many hours, (6-7) for the last change out.

 

[scoflaw]

How did all that water get into your oil ?

 

[northern]

Oil cooler failed and salt water entered through a failed tube. That is why you replace coolers form time to time. After 9 years I replaced the cool cooler and cut the old one in two. It looked in excellent condition but only cost $120. It failed under way in 3 foot waves. When I shut the engine off it filled it with sea water.

 

[JohnEGraham]

Well. I am completed all the repairs.

Things learned: Getting the goooo and cooling passages clear is not a quick job... There end up with a Bad Head Gasket, an Bad Intake manifold was one cracked head.
Found junk yard head Casting "906" from Chevy 2500 Pick up. $100. I found out there are two different 906 units. The one out of the larger trucks have the Harden Seals...Machine Shop charged $320 valve job. RE: Risers gaskets, Only The OEM Gaskets are worth using( Graphite )

The Cooling Chambers in the block had a Major amount of Crap inside them blocking any cooling flow...It Took hours to flush them out using High pressure water. Wet vac and many sized probs. Used a Magnet to help clean and to see when clear. Sealing up all opening but one opening, The water input hole and an exit hole for the rusty junk...
I had a mechanic look at the Block and said that they would condemned the Block because the time needed to flush the junk out. Lucky I have plenty on sick days...

I Changed the water Circulator pump since its been pumping the junk around.
I Filled The Block with Diesel fuel for 3 days, twice with the second fill up with 25% of 5-25 Oil. Turning the motor over by hand and then 4 Oil Changes. I Borrowed a Primer pump at the End to circulate fresh Oil since the Diesel Baths can be an issue on start-up

Overall must of Spent about 100 plus hours but sounds and runs great. apox 1,500 on parts mostly Sierra. I had no where to bring the boat if I was to change the Block so this was the result...

 

[JohnEGraham]

duplicate

 

[JohnEGraham]

Installed new throttle and Cables and Took the Boat out for its post repair cruise. Runs / sounds great... Weekend at 60 degree here in NY... one last weekend and Winterizing next step...