Water leaking from engine

[FreeBacchus]

I am new to posting on CSR but have noticed how helpful the community seems to be in addressing maintenance concerns so I thought I would try my luck.

I started my 2006 240 Sundeck for the first time this season and was underway for about 2 minutes when I checked the engine just to make sure everything was ok.

To my surprise there was 3-4" of water in the bilge area. I returned back to the dock and noted several observations.

1. The leak is coming off the bottom near the rear starboard side of the engine.

2. It only leaks when engine is running.

3. The engine is getting extremely hot and the computer shows zero (0) H20 pressure.

4. The leak takes 20 seconds to begin flowing after I start the engine and continues for 20 seconds after I turn the engine off.

5. I found one hose clamp was completely loose (I could stick my pinky under it) - I tightened that back. I am not sure which hose this was or to where it goes.

6. I removed drain plugs and water from the engine this winter and engine sounds find when running, so should not be a cracked block.

Taking all of these facts into account I would think I have some sort of cooling system leak but I cannot see where the water is coming from, only feel it by stretching as far as I can (I am 6'3" tall to give you perspective on how far back / underneath it is). Thoughts / Ideas?

Thank you

 

[Kreole Kid]

I'd say check the impeller and it's housing on the engine.:huh:

 

[tobnpr]

I don't winterize, but I'm pretty sure you need to drain the manifolds as well when doing so. Did you drain the manifolds?

 

[mwph]

A couple of questions may help others trouble shoot your issue...

1. Which outdrive is on the boat?
2. What maintenance was recently done that would account for the clamp being left so loose?
3. You mentioned Zero water presure... any water temp reading?

 

[FreeBacchus]

The boat has the 350 MPI Bravo III

Good question about the maintenance. The only maintenance performed since the last time it ran was the marina repairing a chunk of the hull that they “nicked” with a forklift and performing some routine lubrication on the grease fittings. I have no idea how a worm drive hose clamp comes completely loose – seemed very odd to me.

I did not think to check the water temperature, BUT the engine was definitely cooking – assume not getting any water circulated around it.

I did not drain the manifolds, I was not aware that was part of the process for this engine. I live in North Carolina and the boat stays in a covered storage facility, so I typically just pull the blue drain plugs and let the water drain so that I can come up a few times during the coldest 2-3 months and run it for 15-20 minutes a few times.

I did not check the impeller (to be honest I wouldn’t know where to look… poor excuse I know) but can do that next time I make it to the lake.

 

[mwph]

"routine lubrication on the grease fittings".?


I would think you really need to determine if the drive, the cooling system, or any of the exhaust system was removed for maintenance. That clamp did not loosen up so much on its own. Any chance the hose has burst? - Is water dripping or pouring?

With the Bravo 3 the water pump is mounted near the front of the engine. Seems your problem is before the water gets there. The hose that feeds that (from the rear) would not be removed for any routine lubrication, but if it has burst or somehow come off - well that would of course cause a problem.

 

[katricol]

freeze plug came out? anything on the floor of the bilge?

 

[FreeBacchus]

No plugs on the floor.

I am wondering if the hose blew off some how. The water is definitely pouring out - not dripping out - almost like a steady strem out of a faucet.

I am going to call the shop today and see what they say. Will report back any details.

 

[Dave S]

Assuming you don't have closed cooling, it is OK to just drain the block like you did if you do it properly. It is not necessary to drain the mainfolds. They will drain with the engine block.

If you read your Mercury manual closely, in addition to removing the blue drain plugs they also tell you to bump the starter a few times to get trapped water out of the sea water pump. Did you do that? If not the pump may be damaged if it froze. Also, there are two blue plugs on the water pump. Did you open both of them? One is a real bugger to reach on a 240 Sundeck and it is easy to pass that one over. (I know since I owned a 240 Sundeck.) If you did not open that hard to reach plug, the water in the fuel cooler does not drain and that unit could be damaged as well.

You mention the loose hose and I suppose that could be the problem. But the other things I mentioned would be likely suspects if it turns out to be something other than the hose.

Dave

 

[skolbe]

I agree it sounds like I would be investigating freeze damage.

 

[Dave S]

One thing I like to do is take a lot of digital pictures because you never know when they might come in handy. When the engine (350 MAG) was out of my boat to repair an oil leak awhile back I took these pictures of the starboard side of the engine. What it shows pretty clearly is how the water enters the water pump (the red hose is the inlet from the outdrive) and where it goes out of the water pump. You can also see the two blue plugs on the water pump and you can see the fuel cooler right above the water pump.........it has two small hoses attached to it. After seeing this it is pretty clear where water can be trapped if you don't remove both of those blue plugs on the water pump.

 

[mwph]

Dave, great pics, Thanks.

Question for you - The OP states that the leak only happens when the engine is running (and for 20 seconds afterwards). Does this tell us that the pump is actually sucking up water but leaking on the way out?

 

[FreeBacchus]

Those pictures are incredibly helpful AND a great idea. I do the same thing when I work on my motorcycles and it does make diagnosing / reparing problems much easier.

I did not know about the two plugs on the back and that is about the position on the block where the water appears to be coming from. The water coming out was warm, which suggests circulation. Also, as it continues to drain after the engine turns off, that may suggest that it is the blue line in your picture.

Thanks for posting those pics. Very helpful!

 

[mwph]

1. The leak is coming off the bottom near the rear starboard side of the engine.

I cannot see where the water is coming from, only feel it by stretching as far as I can (I am 6'3" tall to give you perspective on how far back / underneath it is).

I read the thread again thinking that maybe I was out of line commenting on a problem I have never had to fix But according to the original post (qouted above), something isn't matching up.

Sorry if Ive muddied the waters. Maybe I'm missing something.

 

[Dave S]

I did not know about the two plugs on the back and that is about the position on the block where the water appears to be coming from. The water coming out was warm, which suggests circulation. Also, as it continues to drain after the engine turns off, that may suggest that it is the blue line in your picture.

The two points shown below taken from your first post, and the fact you indicated that you did not remove those two blue plugs on the water pump tell me there is likely some freeze damage.

From your post:
3. The engine is getting extremely hot and the computer shows zero (0) H20 pressure.

4. The leak takes 20 seconds to begin flowing after I start the engine and continues for 20 seconds after I turn the engine off.

With the engine running hot and no water pressure there may be damage to the water pump. And if it is cracked water is drainng out and that may explain why it takes awhile for it to show back up when you first fire up the engine as well. But the Cool Fuel unit which is the big black box right over the water pump may be damaged as well. I would have a good look at both units with a mechanics inspection mirror to see if you can find any cracks. Barring that not turning anything up then fire up the engine on muffs and do the inspection again (but don't let the engine overheat). The Cool Fuel unit is pretty expensive to replace and needs to be dismantled because it also contains the fuel pumps. The water pump is also pretty expensive. If you are a DIY person, you may be able to do the work yourself. If you don't think you can do the work then have your dealer take a look at it. I don't know where you are located in North Carolina but my dealer at Lake Wylie is expecting a lot of freeze damages to start showing up because of our very cold winter. Personally, I would winterize with antifreeze in the future because it minimizes the chances for problems like this if you forget to drain something.

Dave