Vadney clips on pre 2002 TM windshields

Good point. I will have to remember to take some penetrating lubricant to the marina with me tomorrow.
 
I'll take pics for reference should there end up being a "sticky" or if anyone else jumps on the wagon. This is exciting, now I won't be able to sleep:smt101
 
Henry Boyd said:
LD, you might contact one of the admins about doing a sticky post of your pictures with a brief description. Judging by the number of folks I know with older Sea Rays that detest the rubber insert, there may be more volume for these.



Did you source the inserts, screw, nylon(?) washer and snap head?

That looks really first rate. I did a similar thing using a poly cutting board and my table saw. Not quite the same result.

Guys,

I'll do 50. Chris, Are you going to contact the fabricator?

Henry
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't mean to blow off the rest of your comments and questions.

I'm glad to do the sticky post thing, don't know much about it but can figure it out.

As far as the other parts, I bought them all on the internet after spending a lot of time searching on the internet as well as trial and error buying and trying out various items from the local hardware stores. I will post the details so if anyone wants to do it the same way they will know where to get everything.
 
Here is a complete list of the parts with links to the suppliers, links to the actual order pages, and some notes I thought would be helpful.

Nylon Washers
www.non-ferrousfastener.com
Special Nylon Fender Washer 0.562” OD x 0.141” ID x 0.062” TH)
Item No. (1957) NF5620 Special F/W Nylon
http://www.non-ferrousfastener.com/products.php?cat=153&pg=6
(Note: These washers have a small inner diameter to fit the 4-40 machine screw, and the perfect outer diameter to match the particular stainless snap studs listed below. If you use a different snap stud, you may need to use a different size washer.)

Stainless Machine Screws
 www.boltdepot.com
Machine Screws Phillips Oval Head #4-40 x 7/16”
Product No. 14910
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=14910

Stainless Thread Inserts
 www.globalindustrial.com
E-Z LOK Stainless Thread Inserts 4-40
Product No. 303-004
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/f...s/4-40-303-stainless-insert-for-metal-303-004
(Note: These thread inserts come with red Loctite adhesive on them. When I spoke with the technical department at King Starboard about appropriate adhesives, they said the red Loctite would need to be removed to use the inserts in King Starboard. You can try to remove it yourself, which I tried but it did not work very well, or you can call and special-order them without the Loctite on them, for which there is a 100-piece minimum order, which makes the order expensive.)

Stainless Snap Studs
 www.althafastener.com
Tonneau Convertible Landau Top Boat Snap Studs Stainless Steel
Part No. vl30070
http://www.althafastener.com/stainless-steel-snap-fastener-stud-standard_p_103.html
(Note: I ordered them on eBay, information for that below.)
Item No. 130454393682
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130454393682?item=130454393682&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
 
Update;

I haven't been able to contact Brady for a quote yet because my email hasn't been working since the "experts" fixed my "new" computer for the "third" time. I haven't forgotten 'bout everyone here, just waitin' 'till Wednesday to get the thing fixed again. (I must remain calm. Don't want to be in the headlines :smt021)
 
I've been looking all over for something to fit in my track. I have a 2001 260DA and had that rubber extrusion removed because it was hard and almost impossible to get in. Your info is outstanding and very helpful. Will this fit my 2001 track and where do I get the piece to slide into the track?
 
Chris, where did you get the info to purchase the plastic inserts into the frame, I can't find it?
 
I've got a number of emails in to the guy who we were referred to but I guess he's not interested. I'll search my subscriptions when I get home and forward the info to you. Maybe you'll have better luck.

Post #5 is the contact info that I used;

Brady Watson
IBILD Solutions
i_BILD@comcast.net
www.IBILD.com

Lawndoc forwarded the info and was the guy who originally had Brady fab these things up. I was hoping he still had the drawings or plans for them on his computer and that it would be a simple matter of just doing it. Good luck. It could have been that the guy was really busy back in Oct and Nov when I tried to contact him, and that he just didn't have time to respond. Please let me know if you get anywhere. I'm sure there are others who will want these too. Personally I'm at my wits end with this stupid rubber stuff. Seems to work okay in the summer, but for the other 8 months of the year it's impossible.
 
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Thanks for the info, did you ever get them and how much, if you remember, were they? Do I have to get the drawings off lawndoctor?
 
I emailed Brady recently on something else and he responded within a few days. Suggest you give him a try. He seemed willing to make more of the inserts for people on this board when I mentioned it to him last year.
 
Cod Father said:
Thanks for the info, did you ever get them and how much, if you remember, were they? Do I have to get the drawings off lawndoctor?
Click to expand...

I never did manage to get a hold of him. Let's get the ball rolling again. I'll fire another email off to him right now. If we don't hear anything within a few days maybe you could give him a call on the old fashioned telephone. I'll let ya know. I'm sure there are a few others who would like to try these.

EDIT: Email sent to Brady. Hope he'll be able to do it. I'll post the price per unit on this thread and anyone interested can indicate how many they need. That way we can get them all made at the same time and perhaps save some time and extra expense. At least I got all my track screws loosened last fall. Many thanks for resurrecting this subject Guys. I had another bout with that stupid rubber today as a matter of fact :smt021
 
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Now that I've just re read the whole thread I think we need to get input regarding HOW we want to order them. Lawndoc's method looks really professional but I was thinking of drilling each insert out myself and using the snaps that come with the screws already in them. As mentioned, the screws will have to be shortened somewhat but I'm hoping, if one is careful and uses the right sized pilot hole, there won't be an issue with distortion. The screw threads can be secured with a dab of 4200 or epoxy so they don't back out. Another thought would be to ask Brady to make up solid stock in 2 or 3 foot lengths so we can each order a few lengths and cut each insert to the size we need.
 
The idea of having him make up two or three foot lengths would be a great idea!! We could cut the desired length we want to use from the stock. Another idea on inserting them. I personally would want to only use the snaps on the sides, the front windshield is not so impossible to push the rubber into the track plus it's really water tight. So with this in mind, why not take a small dremel tool and on the bottom of the track where it comes in contact with the fiberglass just cut out say a 1.5 inch of the aluminum to open up an insertion area. If done correctly and neatly it would not look bad. Then you could push each individual piece into the opened slot and push it up the track to the desired area and screw in your snap. In the future you could replace broken pieces without removing the winshield again.

The guy who invented this rubber strip system has never been on a boat in open water. Also I'm assuming my 2003 225 Weekender has the same style and depth track. This post was titled "pre 2002 TM windshields."
 
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I actually prefer the rubber strip (and have done so in open water/rain/wind - pretty much everything). It goes in easily, looks better, and seals better. I have yet to find a boat (including three of my own) where I couldn't make the rubber strip work. Although it's not as self-explanatory as snaps, once you know the tricks the entire camper canvas can be up in not much more than 5 minutes. But, everyone likes what they like and that's OK, too. With that being said, I doubt anything is really a "perfect" system - reinventing can be a good thing. Sounds like an interesting venture. Just be VERY careful with drilling, screwing around the windshield - the tiniest mistake (and there are NO warning signs of a fracturing glass) will turn into your wallet being AT LEAST $3,000 lighter, if not more like $7,000.
 
Last Dollar said:
Also I'm assuming my 2003 225 Weekender has the same style and depth track. This post was titled "pre 2002 TM windshields."
Click to expand...

The track dimensions were changed at some point in time but I'm not sure when. The "Vadney" clips are a product from TM that will only fit into the newer styled tracks. Maybe someone can chime in here with some advice.

Dennis, I've gotta be doing something wrong then because I have an elluva time getting these sides and front up. With the snap type tops it's just a matter of clip, clip, and zip. With this rubber and velcro stuff the darn windows are flying around in the wind while I'm trying desperately to hold what rubber I DO have in the track down and trying to force the rest of it in as the Velcro parts stick to each other and I'm trying not to get tossed overboard in the waves. AAAAHHHHHGGGGG!!!!!!! :smt021.
 
Just got an email back from Brady; quote[ Chris, Yes. These are custom machined from HDPE (King Starboard). They are $5 each if you want the holes tapped @ 10-32; $2.50 ea with plain hole properly sized for tapping 10-32 yourself. This is because it is very labor intensive to hold these small parts and tap them on the tapping machine one at a time.]quote. I'll count the number that I need. I'll go with the untapped ones.
Anyone else?
 
Chris, how many of these wedges do you think I would need for my windshield all the way around? I'm curious to see how many you have before I order. Also, did you get the wedges drilled out to 10-32 as Brady was saying to me or 4-40 303 Stainless Insert for Metal that lawndoctor put up links too?
Thanks, Dave
[h=1][/h]
 
Cod Father said:
Chris, how many of these wedges do you think I would need for my windshield all the way around? I'm curious to see how many you have before I order. Also, did you get the wedges drilled out to 10-32 as Brady was saying to me or 4-40 303 Stainless Insert for Metal that lawndoctor put up links too?
Thanks, Dave
[h=1][/h]
Click to expand...

Hi again Dave. Post #24 is a list of all the suppliers. As far as the number of snaps goes, I would THINK a spacing of 6 to 10 inches would suffice. My last boat was spaced at 1 foot intervals and I always had a problem with the wind getting under the canvas and undoing the snaps on the front. (I did save a few bucks at the discount canvas shop though :smt021) Best bet would be to find a boat that already has the snaps and measure the distance between them.

Afterthought; I wonder if Henry changed his over yet.
 
I got rid of mine, I couldn't put the side pieces of my camper in unless I was in my slip. Then I would do one side and pull the boat to the other finger to get the other side. Saw my buddy snapping his easy from his boat and I was sold!!! You must be a contortionist to get your camper top sides on!!
 
I looked at your setup and it looks nice, but Brady said he only tapped out the wedges to 10-32 and you show a 4-40 insert. Did you try the 10-32? I'm wondering if they will fit the inside of the male snaps, guess I'll have to try a SS bolt if I can find that size.
 
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