Vacuflush Pump

nymonymgr

nymonymgr

New Member
Oct 18, 2009
157
Long Island, NY
Boat Info
2008 330 Sundancer, Kohler 5KW Genset, Raymarine C80 Plotter/Radar, TracVision M3 - 2009 SeaDoo GTI
Engines
Twin 8.1 Horizon V-Drives, Mercury DTS, Bow Thruster
Does anyone have any feedback for me on this: The pump for the vacuflush head (vacuum pump) that comes on after you flush and stops when the pressure is correct seems to come on intermittently without the head being flushed.

I'm guessing that means that pressure is leaking from the seal in the bowl but how normal is that, if at all? This is only our second season with this boat that was delivered new last year.

The same thing was happening last season. Thanks!!
 
There is a TON of info on this site regarding this. Do a search. basically it is either your ball valve of duckbills. One of those is the case about 95% of the time.

Can you keep water in the bowl? If not, then replace your ball valve seal. have you examined your duckbills?
 
The easiest way I know to see if your seal is going bad is to put water in the bowl and see if it disappears over time. If the water stays - than your seal is ok, and you may have a vacuum switch issue. If the water disappears your seal needs replacing.
 
Does water remain in the toilet bowl?

If the water is gone, it’s most likely a small piece of stuff in between the gasket above the ball. Um, your finger is going to get dirty but reach in the bowl, hold the ball open with your foot and clean around that gasket.

If the water is not gone from the bowl its likely something stuck in the duck valves.
Disassemble the vacuum pump, clean (or replace the duck valves, 4 total, 2 sets) and reinstall.
 
All of the above correct. Definitely check the ring around the half-ball for a piece of TP or corn first. Another possiblility... The Vacuum Pressure switch on the vacuum tank. If the water stays in the bowl and the duckbills are new or you replace them and the problem continues, it's this switch. Once the pump creates the appropriate vacuum pressure, the switch shuts the pump off. If the switch is bad, the pump will not stop at all but it's possible it will work intermittently.

This is a good read...
http://www.northeastsanitation.com/how_does_a_vacuflush_system_operate.html

The switch is at the end of the tank. Picture here are both...
http://www.northeastsanitation.com/vacuum_tank.html

I have replaced duckbills and this switch on mine and neither job is that big a deal, provided you have good access. It's not a bad idea to replace duckbills proactively anyway.

This company is on LI and are very helpful on the phone. You tell they your symptoms they'll tell you what you need.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the information!!!
 
The prices on these parts are sort of fixed. You won't save much by shopping around. The NE people are very knowledgable and helpful. The website is a great resource and they'll walk you through any problem.
 
I was lazy a couple of years ago and just turned off the key switch when it wasn't being used....got me by until I traded the boat.
 
I just resolved this same problem after weeks of trying. Vacuum pump was running nearly continously, no leakage from bowl. It could have been doing that quite a while since the pumps cannot be heard unless one is in the engine room; I noticed it during spring commissioning. I changed all the duckbills even though they were in great shape, no change. The pump stopped running completely so I jumped the vacuum switch to check that but the pump had failed. I called in the dealer so I could get the pump replaced under extended warranty. The tech found that the vacuum leak which had worn out the pump was caused by numerous leaks in the last length of hose from the head to the vacuum tank; there was no smell associated with the problem. He said he has never seen hose failure like this in such a short period of time (mine is also a 2008 boat). He replaced the pump and duct-taped the hose but I need to replace it since there is still intermittent cycling but not as much as before. The tech theorized that it might have been caused by battery acid fumes since the battery banks are in close proximity but I find that hard to believe. I am guessing it is just a defective hose and am wondering if it might be a class problem for boats of similar vintage such as the PO's. Hopefully not but thought I would pass it on.
 
alnav said:
I just resolved this same problem after weeks of trying. Vacuum pump was running nearly continously, no leakage from bowl. It could have been doing that quite a while since the pumps cannot be heard unless one is in the engine room; I noticed it during spring commissioning. I changed all the duckbills even though they were in great shape, no change. The pump stopped running completely so I jumped the vacuum switch to check that but the pump had failed. I called in the dealer so I could get the pump replaced under extended warranty. The tech found that the vacuum leak which had worn out the pump was caused by numerous leaks in the last length of hose from the head to the vacuum tank; there was no smell associated with the problem. He said he has never seen hose failure like this in such a short period of time (mine is also a 2008 boat). He replaced the pump and duct-taped the hose but I need to replace it since there is still intermittent cycling but not as much as before. The tech theorized that it might have been caused by battery acid fumes since the battery banks are in close proximity but I find that hard to believe. I am guessing it is just a defective hose and am wondering if it might be a class problem for boats of similar vintage such as the PO's. Hopefully not but thought I would pass it on.
Click to expand...

If you cannot hear your vacuum pump operate, you can monitor it by watching the DC ampmeter.
 
Never put anything in the head that you already haven't eaten
Click to expand...

Corn often comes out one end in the same exact form as it went in on the other end.
 
Thanks everyone!! Corn? Funny.....haven't banned it...at least yet!! I don't think its the seal as the bowl does indeed hold water.

The boat is under warantee so I'll check in with dealer...they need to fix a non-working bilge blower anyway.

I've also been shutting the key off when we leave the boat unattended.
 
If the bowl is leaking water, it may just need a simple cleaning of the seal...
 
Last edited:
One other area that caused a small leak for me was the large band clamp that holds the upper and lower halves of the toilet together. I had the pump running and the bowl was holding water just fine. I got lucky and heard it sucking air when I started troubleshooting. I tightened the clamp about a turn and a half and the leak stopped.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,241
Messages
1,429,111
Members
61,122
Latest member
DddAae
Back
Top