My vacu flush pump keeps running . I found out that it was the pressure switch, the one that has the sping in the center of it that senses the vacume pressure. So I bought a new one from Marine Max and the spring on the new one was a lot heavyer than the old one that I took off, so I installed it anyway and the pump will still not shut off no matter how long I let it run. Any Ideas anyone:smt100
Vacu flush keeps running
- Thread starter beachnut
- Start date
It is pulling water out of the bowl? If so replace the seal under the bowl, it is an easy fix. It could also be the duckbills in the pump assembly, but if the vacuum is running and sucking water out the bowl I would start with the seal first. If you loosen the ring clamp at the bottom of the bowl, the bowl will come right off and expose the seal underneath.
Yep, either the bowl seal or the duckbills.
- Oct 3, 2006
- 4,404
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer, Westerbeke MPV generator
- Engines
- twin 5.0's w/BIII drives
Duckbills last about 5 years. When did you last change them?
About every 5 years you need to replace all 4 duckbills
If the water is remaining in the toilet bowl yet the pump continues to run the most likely issue is a out of shape duckbill. These four flexible "duck bill" shaped rubber pieces act as a one way valve to allow the pump to create suction for the vacuflush system.
The part number for the duckvalves or duckbills for the vacuflush is Sea Land 310076.
You need 4 total and the part number is a kit of 2 duck valves so you need to ordcer 2 #310076 to change them out. Cost is just over $20 per kit.
The below is the vacuflush. The pump is black in this photo. This pump is before your holding tank and under a white plastic cover. Remove the screws on the top of the cover then lift the cover up to remove the cover.
Next disconnect the wires, 4 pump mounting screws, the waste hose then remove the pump. Take the pump out and replace the 4 duckbill valves. Clean and reinstall in the reverse order.
You will get dirty. You will also need to clean the bilge area after this project.
This shows the pump and the location of the 4 duckbills.
No. Part No. Description
1 385311323 KIT, PUMP COVER
2 385311324 KIT, PUMP TOP-CLOSE W/SCREWS
3 600344087 WASHER, #10 X 5/8 OD SS
4 600342332 SCREW, #10-32 X 1/2" HEX WASHER
5 385311065 KIT, SW MOTOR 12V
385311423 KIT, SS/SQ TO SW MOTOR 12V (INC. ITEMS 4,6,8,9&10)
385311066 KIT, SW MOTOR 24V
385311424 KIT, SS/SQ TO SW MOTOR 24V (INC. ITEMS 4,6,8,9&10)
6 385310644 KIT, ECCENTRIC/SCREW
7 385310151 KIT, O'RING
8 385311226 KIT, PUMP BELLOWS CLAMP
9 385310242 KIT, S/T PUMP BUSHING
10 385230980 KIT, BELLOWS (INC. ITEM 9)
11 600341504 BODY, PUMP (8 BOLT) S PUMP
12 385310076 KIT, DUCKBILL VALVE (2)
13 600347801 ADAPTER, VALVE
14 600347800 NIPPLE, VALVE
Beachnut, did you find this information helpful? Please post a follow up post letting us know if this fixed your problem.
About every 5 years you need to replace all 4 duckbills
If the water is remaining in the toilet bowl yet the pump continues to run the most likely issue is a out of shape duckbill. These four flexible "duck bill" shaped rubber pieces act as a one way valve to allow the pump to create suction for the vacuflush system.
The part number for the duckvalves or duckbills for the vacuflush is Sea Land 310076.
You need 4 total and the part number is a kit of 2 duck valves so you need to ordcer 2 #310076 to change them out. Cost is just over $20 per kit.
The below is the vacuflush. The pump is black in this photo. This pump is before your holding tank and under a white plastic cover. Remove the screws on the top of the cover then lift the cover up to remove the cover.
Next disconnect the wires, 4 pump mounting screws, the waste hose then remove the pump. Take the pump out and replace the 4 duckbill valves. Clean and reinstall in the reverse order.
You will get dirty. You will also need to clean the bilge area after this project.
This shows the pump and the location of the 4 duckbills.
No. Part No. Description
1 385311323 KIT, PUMP COVER
2 385311324 KIT, PUMP TOP-CLOSE W/SCREWS
3 600344087 WASHER, #10 X 5/8 OD SS
4 600342332 SCREW, #10-32 X 1/2" HEX WASHER
5 385311065 KIT, SW MOTOR 12V
385311423 KIT, SS/SQ TO SW MOTOR 12V (INC. ITEMS 4,6,8,9&10)
385311066 KIT, SW MOTOR 24V
385311424 KIT, SS/SQ TO SW MOTOR 24V (INC. ITEMS 4,6,8,9&10)
6 385310644 KIT, ECCENTRIC/SCREW
7 385310151 KIT, O'RING
8 385311226 KIT, PUMP BELLOWS CLAMP
9 385310242 KIT, S/T PUMP BUSHING
10 385230980 KIT, BELLOWS (INC. ITEM 9)
11 600341504 BODY, PUMP (8 BOLT) S PUMP
12 385310076 KIT, DUCKBILL VALVE (2)
13 600347801 ADAPTER, VALVE
14 600347800 NIPPLE, VALVE
Beachnut, did you find this information helpful? Please post a follow up post letting us know if this fixed your problem.
Last edited:
Yea and if you have a nosey slip neighbor who is always watching you work and always bugg’n you with “what you doing now” you can do what I did last time I changed mine. He asked me “what is a duckbill”, so while I was down in the bilge I grabbed my channel locks, picked up the old one and handed it to him to examine. He later came over to my boat with a beer in his hand for me, I declined….
rcknecht
Well-Known Member
I have flipped my duck bill seal over in a pinch to stop the leaking... Good idea to carry a spare duck bill for you vac flush...
NOTE: Run a lot of water thru your head system prior to pulling everything apart. Maybe a touch of bleach as well. This makes for a slightly less nasty job when you get everything apart. I had to get into my pump once over last summer as someone had flush a feminin hygiene product and it stopped the actual pump. 2 of them actually! I could not run water thru first and it was nasty. Changed the duckbills at the same time (they were only a year old, but hey, I had it apart).
Greg
Active Member
Rod,
Did you flip your duck bill or the bowl seal? I haven't been lucky enough yet to need to take mine apart but can't imagine turning the duck bill over or inside out? :huh:
The rebuild kit is cheap for these heads. And VERY easy. I would just rebuild it with all new seals and duckbills. I had never done it before and it took me less then an hour. That was mostly because I did not have the right tools next to me at the time.
A quick rebuild is a smart investment.
A quick rebuild is a smart investment.
rcknecht
Well-Known Member
Greg,
Actually it was seal around the rotating ball valve... I guess I assumed wrong that these are also called "Duck Bills"
Since the contributors to this thread all appear to be qualified "headologists," what head chemical(s) would you guys recommend for the holding tank? Since I will be taking delivery of my boat this Spring, this would be among the first things I would like to do.:smt001
KHARRIMAN
New Member
- Dec 15, 2008
- 203
- Boat Info
- 2005- 280 DA
AIR,WATER HEATER,
5K GEN, 2007 DODGE 3500
- Engines
- TWIN MERCRUISER 5.0
BRAVO III DRIVES
Not discounting the other advice here, but also.....
Check to see that a ring of Sh** isn't smushed along the ball valve- then when you flush it gets stuck between the ball and seal.
My head kept running, and sucking water from the bowl(thought it might be a seal),- a dock hose spray (sideways) while the head/flush is held open will hopefully dislodge any leftover nasty.
Easy to try before you start tearing things apart.
Check to see that a ring of Sh** isn't smushed along the ball valve- then when you flush it gets stuck between the ball and seal.
My head kept running, and sucking water from the bowl(thought it might be a seal),- a dock hose spray (sideways) while the head/flush is held open will hopefully dislodge any leftover nasty.
Easy to try before you start tearing things apart.
Woody
Well-Known Member
I pimarily use the Sealand products for my system
http://www.sealandservices.com/marine_consumables.htm
mawyatt
New Member
I had a similar problem to Khairrman. Used the cleaning kit from Sealand and found a small peice of tissue between the ball and seal.
Asureyez
New Member
- Apr 22, 2007
- 1,535
- Boat Info
- Sea Ray 460 Sundancer Hardtop 2001 - SOLD
- Engines
- Cummins 450 Diesels
Being the resident King Of Crap as Gary donned me once. The two things that will cause a Vac system to run constantly, all of a sudden is
#1 Poorly flushed bowl. if the bowl is dry and sucks the water out even slowly, the ball seal is fouled. I keep a small toilet brush under the vanity and when trouble strikes I hold the ball valve open and scrub the inside of the waste compartment with the brush, making sure to get the tracks and ball seal as well. 97% fix. Periodically put on gloves and smear a very light coat of super lub on the seal and track while ball is open.
#2: Duck Bill valves in the vacuum pump are A. fouled by a towette hung up or B. the valves are worn. Either way, open up and pop in a new pair., unless the existing ones are less than a year, then a cleaning should do it.
Take care of your Vacuflush and it will take care of you!
#1 Poorly flushed bowl. if the bowl is dry and sucks the water out even slowly, the ball seal is fouled. I keep a small toilet brush under the vanity and when trouble strikes I hold the ball valve open and scrub the inside of the waste compartment with the brush, making sure to get the tracks and ball seal as well. 97% fix. Periodically put on gloves and smear a very light coat of super lub on the seal and track while ball is open.
#2: Duck Bill valves in the vacuum pump are A. fouled by a towette hung up or B. the valves are worn. Either way, open up and pop in a new pair., unless the existing ones are less than a year, then a cleaning should do it.
Take care of your Vacuflush and it will take care of you!
Thanks Woody for the link and since these are the folks that made the toilet can't go wrong.
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,524
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Thanks for the great advice Chad. What is the brand of "super lube" that you use?
A "head" mechanic in our area says to occassionally dump 8 oz of mineral oil in the bowl. He claims that will lube the seals, duckbills, and keep the insides of the tank cleaner. Any thoughts on that?
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,524
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Found an answer to the mineral oil question on Motorboating Online:
Don't overlook the maintenance that your marine head requires.
By Pierce Hoover
Of all the on-board systems that require maintenance or repair, one of the most often overlooked — or shunned — is the marine head. But you ignore the issue at your own peril. There are nautical disasters more dangerous than a backed-up toilet, but none more disgusting.
Inspecting and maintaining the various components of the toilet, waste lines and holding tank are probably the first jobs you'll hire out to a professional, and who could blame you? But even if you never want to hear the words "marine sanitation device," there are a few simple steps of prevention that will greatly reduce the chances of that device becoming unsanitary during an afternoon cruise.
It's a given that everyone who comes on board should be made aware of the various things that should not be flushed down the toilet. This list should also include cleaning products. Detergents and many household cleaning products — especially those that contain pine oil or alcohol — should never be poured into a marine toilet, as they can damage or destroy the system's various gaskets and valves as well as the waste hose itself. There are a number of good cleaning products geared specifically for marine sanitation systems, and you should use only the types recommended by the system's manufacturer.
Another no-no is vegetable oil. In the days of direct-discharge heads, some boaters poured a bit of oil through the toilet every so often to keep the moving parts lubricated. But when you introduce this oil into a holding tank, it accumulates on top, sealing the contents below from the airflow needed for beneficial odor-controlling bacteria production. This leads to unpleasant odors.
Don't overlook the maintenance that your marine head requires.
By Pierce Hoover
Of all the on-board systems that require maintenance or repair, one of the most often overlooked — or shunned — is the marine head. But you ignore the issue at your own peril. There are nautical disasters more dangerous than a backed-up toilet, but none more disgusting.
Inspecting and maintaining the various components of the toilet, waste lines and holding tank are probably the first jobs you'll hire out to a professional, and who could blame you? But even if you never want to hear the words "marine sanitation device," there are a few simple steps of prevention that will greatly reduce the chances of that device becoming unsanitary during an afternoon cruise.
It's a given that everyone who comes on board should be made aware of the various things that should not be flushed down the toilet. This list should also include cleaning products. Detergents and many household cleaning products — especially those that contain pine oil or alcohol — should never be poured into a marine toilet, as they can damage or destroy the system's various gaskets and valves as well as the waste hose itself. There are a number of good cleaning products geared specifically for marine sanitation systems, and you should use only the types recommended by the system's manufacturer.
Another no-no is vegetable oil. In the days of direct-discharge heads, some boaters poured a bit of oil through the toilet every so often to keep the moving parts lubricated. But when you introduce this oil into a holding tank, it accumulates on top, sealing the contents below from the airflow needed for beneficial odor-controlling bacteria production. This leads to unpleasant odors.
