underpowered and frustrated

Mutual Fun said:
thanks Bob for actually understanding the question....the problem is not the top end speed but rather the poor responsiveness when I'm walking it around the marina. I'm looking into some bigger wheels right to gain some control. I've checked the tachs and they are correct. How are the 18x18 working out when you're moving it around.....ie. When you split the shifter sticks is there a long lag before you pivot?
Click to expand...

This is the 2003 prop spec from the Sea Ray site for your boat and engine combination:

2003
340SDA
TVD-MX 6.2 MPI (T-320 PHP) MCM V-DR.INBOARD
2.00:1
PROP, 17"X 19"X 3.55" "C" RH
1752161
PROP, 17"X 19"X 3.55" "C" LH
1752160

WOT 5200

According to this, your boat gets more top end rpm than mine even though we have the same engine and horsepower. I found the 4 blade props gave me a little more low end thrust in both reverse and forward for docking. They also gave me slightly better gas mileage and run smoother than the factory 3 blades. None of these improvements were large but rather incremental. I would suggest you start with a prop shop that has the prop scanning system like Airmarine here in Chicago. If your props are factory, they are 1" less in diameter than mine so I would check first if your prop tunnels can handle a larger diameter prop before considering that type of change. A good prop shop can then make a recommendation on what size and pitch props would be the best fit. Going with new props like mine will run you between $1,800 and $2,200 so make sure that a simple prop tuning which might run around $500 + could give you the improvements you are looking for. You are currently at or slightly above the WOT range but I would check what is stamped on your engines to validate what Sea Ray has on their site or is in your Mercruiser manual.
 
I owned a 320 and you are not going to get what you desire. The only way to make a 320 (or most gas engines in this size boat) is to use a little bit of throttle when trying to spin the boat. By just placing one in forward the other reverse, it moves but it takes time. In the wind or current, forget it, you need throttle.
 
This thread is a prime example of how one gets bad advice on the Internet (and people believe it)...

Time to bring back the red balls.
 
I've still got some greenies for sale. buyer backed out ^^^^^^^^^
 
You may want to try and sell your green balls to the guys telling this poster that, even though his boat is running at the published spec, he should go to the local prop shop because they'll know more than Sea Ray or Mercruiser... And what's wrong with propping the boat for more "bite" even though it won't be able to get to WOT spec?! That whole discussion on "engine overloading" is crap... they guys at the dock "in the know" said so...

This thread is about a guy who doesn't understand the performance envelope of his boat and has expectations that it's a Formula or something and then a few try to convince him that he should head off to the prop shop and spend $$ because... well... just because...

My "advise" is to

1. Call Sea Ray and get the performance specs (speed, RPM, etc) for your boat and engines.

2. Read the manual

3. Go to Boat Test and get the performance specs for your boat and engines.

4. Reset your expectations.

5. Take a boating class and buy some reference material

6. Don't listen to people who don't know which side of the day marker you should be on (The "It ain't boating unless you're bumping bottom" club)
 
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1. If you want to move a big hunk of plastic through the water at a decent speed there in no substitute for cubic inches the bigger the better. :thumbsup:

2. Friction will always slow you down so forget the bottom paint and go for the Hi Performance WAX job:grin:

3. Never believe the sales man on how fast the boat will run :smt018do a sea trial to prove it.:smt017
 
You’ll want to stick around for the sequel to this:

How do I repair my drives since I blew the gear out with these bid a$$ props or I can’t achieve WOT, what’s the problem.
 
Gary......you're not listening to the question becuase your too interested in being entertaining! I don't want to go faster......36 is plenty. The prop bite is for dock control. I'm finding the boat is not responsive when I'm moving it around at idle speed 'There is a lag' that I thought I might try reduce by through re-proping, cupping, etc. In looking at your responces to everyone's posts and it would appear that you must have some experience. If this is the case please answer constructively.
 
What I do when turning my boat is give a bit of throttle to my engine in reverse. This helps the boat to be more responsive when docking... If I a am docking in the wind, the wind tends to to take more throttle to get the boat responding in the direction I want it to go. The bow is easiely pushed by the wind and once you get it going in the direction you want it to go it usually spins too fast... Current can also cause trouble... Gary is in charge of hazzing, and it is a rite of passage here at CSR... If you don't get too upset with his comments you pass.... Welcome to CSR....
 
Mutual
Because SR designs these boats with engines that are set very close together to allow fuel tanks to be set outboard for more even weight distribution, closed quarters maneuvering is a very well know and oft discussed problem. There is no solution other than practice and mastering the technique - the torque of diesel power and/or a bow thruster does solve the problem - but our boats are not available with diesel). You can re-prop with 4 bladers but you really need to tinker with WOT RPM so the engines are loaded properly.

There is no one on CSR with a bigger problem spinning the boat in a breeze in the fairway than the owner of this heavy, fat-ass windsock of a boat. You dancer guys have no idea how easy you have it! Fact is, there's nothing I (or you) can do about it. It's been rehashed a million times here and on the old SRO board - Practice and use throttle! And save all that re-propping money for gas!
 
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Gary has a lot of good information in his post here and elsewhere. Yes, he may haze some people but trying to give advise (bad advise) is just dangerous sometimes. The way you prop a boat is not for docking. You achieve max rated RPM at full load. In other words, put all your crap on the boat, fill water, fuel, holding tank (ok maybe not holding tank) but get everything on the boat and run it at WOT. Take readings and compare to WOT rating from SeaRay, Mercury whatever your engine package is. If you don't reach WOT when fully loaded, either low or high, take this information to the prop shop and he will make adjustments to the props.

At this point, you are correctly proped. You don't prop your boat for docking and low speed. So even though you may not agree with Gary's post, he has some good points on this post.
 
trit21 said:
Gary has a lot of good information in his post here and elsewhere. Yes, he may haze some people but trying to give advise (bad advise) is just dangerous sometimes. The way you prop a boat is not for docking. You achieve max rated RPM at full load. In other words, put all your crap on the boat, fill water, fuel, holding tank (ok maybe not holding tank) but get everything on the boat and run it at WOT. Take readings and compare to WOT rating from SeaRay, Mercury whatever your engine package is. If you don't reach WOT when fully loaded, either low or high, take this information to the prop shop and he will make adjustments to the props.

At this point, you are correctly proped. You don't prop your boat for docking and low speed. So even though you may not agree with Gary's post, he has some good points on this post.
Click to expand...

Well said.

Fella with 6 posts comes into this group here with guns a-blazin' and and then wonders why everone is shootin' back? What's up with that?:huh:
 
I've seen a fellow boater with an older 35' express stern in with a strong crosswind. Even though he has 454's he get's more of a "bite" when engaging forward or reverse by increasing his idle RPM to approximately 1200 in neutral before starting to dock(from what I can determine as I listen to the engines).

I can't help but think that this could cause damage to the trannies, but he purchased the boat new in 1989, has over 3000 hrs on both original Merc engines and has even travelled from Canada as far south as Trinidad during a 6yr journey and back - so he seems to know what he's doing.

It sure provides the desired positive control you seem to be desiring.

Comments???
 
The boat is on spec.....the captain is not. Don't worry about fendering up, I live in Canada and I just put the boat on the hard for the winter. It would appear there is little prop solution for this.

As for the hazing.....by all means! My only beef is that it's criminal to waste really solid one-liners on the wrong topic. Look at the stuff you guys are missing:
1. he's from Canada
2. he's a bad docker


Appreciate your help.
Scott
 
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