Trim & Gauge senders are bad

Hai Nhi

Hai Nhi

Member
Feb 3, 2013
184
Hayward, CA
Boat Info
280DA, triple axle aluminum, 12 F350 CCLB 6.7 KR; 06 Yamaha Jetski Cruiser (50 Yr Anniversary Ver)
Engines
T4.3L 220HP w/Alpha I Drives Gen II
The mechanic surveyor said my trim & gauge senders are bad (not sure if only starboard or both, I'll ask today).

I plan to get them both & replace myself. I saw a kit on Amazon from Sierra International but it doesn't say if it'd fit. Also, is there anything else I should get? All the bellows are in good condition.

http://www.amazon.com/Sierra-Intern...282571&sr=8-1&keywords=trim+sender+mercruiser

What's about the Auto Trim Tab Control, opinions? http://www.amazon.com/Bennett-26800...sr=1-1&keywords=Bennett+Auto+Trim+Tab+Control

I'm prepping up for my Memorial Day Weekends first get-away. Wifey agrees to stay overnight. :)

Thank you.
 
I think it's the trim senders that's bad, not the tab.

But thanks for the links. I'm reading posts over there for tab related stuffs. Very helpful.
 
If you have to pull the drives to replace the senders be prepared to replace the bellows anyway,they may look good ,even be new but tear trying to unglue them or get a micro sized puncture in them.If they prove good after removeal and thourogh inspection take the new ones back to the store.Do any related maintainance while in there also.
 
Ok, that sounds reasonable.

Only thing is, it's my first boat. So I don't know what need to be done yet. :). Is there a link? I'll do a search too

I know the outdrives need oil changed. Should I buy all the bellows (u joints, shifts, exhausts) for both?

Thank you
 
Well I was going to say you don't need bellows changed, but unless you're certain of their age and condition it's not a terrible idea. If they look nice and new and aren't leaking you could postpone it a bit but you're going to be digging right back into the drives again when you do change them.

I just bought my boat last year. I knew everything needed replaced. This is my list. Yours should be similar.

Replaced U joint bellows
Replaced exhaust bellows
Replaced shift cable bellows
Replaced trim limit and sender switches
Replaced water pump impeller and housing
Replaced drive gaskets
Replaced all anodes
Changed gear lube
Replaced gear lube drain plug seals
Inspected and greased gimbal bearings
Inspected and greased U joints
Inspected shift and throttle cables
Checked engine alignment

That's a pretty comprehensive list for the stuff outside the boat. Once you get into the drives it really is best to just do it all. Labor will far outweigh the small savings on parts if you only do some of it.

The water pump impeller and housing is Alhpa specific. If you have Bravos you will have a different setup. The rest will be the same.
 
My starboard side does not work. Given the cost and difficulty to replace I lost interest in fixing it. To be honest the gauge is pretty useless with the 280's since they don't like much trim anyway. I'd say spend the time and money somewhere else.
 
Okay, I have to ask, we are talking about two completely different systems in this thread?
1) Outdrive trim position indication.
2) Trim tab automatic controller.
 
:). I'm talking about both:
- my drive trim senders are bad (round things on both sides of the outdrives) according to the surveyor anyway.
- I also read about the trim tab auto controller and was wondering if it's good to have.

The previous owner said if he only used the tabs most of the time.
 
magstang1 said:
Well I was going to say you don't need bellows changed, but unless you're certain of their age and condition it's not a terrible idea. If they look nice and new and aren't leaking you could postpone it a bit but you're going to be digging right back into the drives again when you do change them.

I just bought my boat last year. I knew everything needed replaced. This is my list. Yours should be similar.

Replaced U joint bellows
Replaced exhaust bellows
Replaced shift cable bellows
Replaced trim limit and sender switches
Replaced water pump impeller and housing
Replaced drive gaskets
Replaced all anodes
Changed gear lube
Replaced gear lube drain plug seals
Inspected and greased gimbal bearings
Inspected and greased U joints
Inspected shift and throttle cables
Checked engine alignment

That's a pretty comprehensive list for the stuff outside the boat. Once you get into the drives it really is best to just do it all. Labor will far outweigh the small savings on parts if you only do some of it.

The water pump impeller and housing is Alhpa specific. If you have Bravos you will have a different setup. The rest will be the same.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the list. :). Mines are Alpha too.
 
There is always the option of slicing the wires outside of the boat. I know, it's a much frowned upon method, but when executed correctly it is viable.

Do you want to spend $200 or $2,000?
 
Just to be clear, the TRIM TABS have nothing to do with the the OUTDRIVE TILT senders and limit switches which operate the gauges on the dash showing the outdrive position.

I just had my mechanic replace my senders & limit switches and based on what I saw, it is not something I would consider doing myself even if I had the capability to do it.

As others have said abaove, I dont really use the drive tilt much...basically only when I know I'm going through some shallow water.
 
magstang1 said:
Well I was going to say you don't need bellows changed, but unless you're certain of their age and condition it's not a terrible idea. If they look nice and new and aren't leaking you could postpone it a bit but you're going to be digging right back into the drives again when you do change them.

I just bought my boat last year. I knew everything needed replaced. This is my list. Yours should be similar.

Replaced U joint bellows
Replaced exhaust bellows
Replaced shift cable bellows
Replaced trim limit and sender switches
Replaced water pump impeller and housing
Replaced drive gaskets
Replaced all anodes
Changed gear lube
Replaced gear lube drain plug seals
Inspected and greased gimbal bearings
Inspected and greased U joints
Inspected shift and throttle cables
Checked engine alignment

That's a pretty comprehensive list for the stuff outside the boat. Once you get into the drives it really is best to just do it all. Labor will far outweigh the small savings on parts if you only do some of it.

The water pump impeller and housing is Alhpa specific. If you have Bravos you will have a different setup. The rest will be the same.
Click to expand...


My 190 SD is getting all of the above done at the marina, this week... Just one engine and I anticipate it costing about $1,000... It has less than 50 hours on the bellows I am replacing, but since the senders are being replaced, I plan on having it all done... I would do it myself if I had the time and tools, but I don't... Its worth doing for your peace of mind...
 
RE: the trim position sending units

The Sierra kit you linked to is for one drive's position trim limit sensor and trim position sensor. You'll need to buy two of those kits to fix both drives, even if only your trim position senders are bad.

As you already know, in order to replace the sending units, you'll need to remove the drive and the gimbal housing. You'll need a hinge pin tool at a minimum to get the gimbal housing off (and a nice long breaker bar as they are torqued in pretty high and use thread locker). Then at this point, you might as well replace all of the bellows and the water pump hose (all included in a kit). And maybe even the shift cable while you are at it. To replace the bellows, you'll also need a couple of special tools like the exhaust bellows installation tool (a must have).

I did a writeup a few years ago in the technical forum on doing this, but I have no idea where it's at. Basic mechanical skills are needed. It's not a difficult job. The hardest part is getting the water pump hose installed! There's not a lot of room to work in there. Patience is as important as skill here, though I admit I may have thrown a wrench or two at some point. :smt001

Good luck,

Tom
 
:) sounds ... "interesting".

I do have time, and NOT the extra dough ($$$) at this time after getting all the toys at way way way over my original budget (my boat budget was $10-$15k, ended up getting a $35k boat and still need work). On top of that, I "HAD" to trade my 2012 F250 for a F350 diesel, CCLB. So now you guys understand where I'm at, hopefully!!! Hehehe.

So yeah, I do agree that having a mechanic does all the work is a big plus, even for an oil change. I do get oil changes for my vehicles. But for now, even the drive oil change (it's time) will be done with my elbow grease.

In short: Please help as much as you can in directing me toward DIY guides. At least I know what's going with the boat and how it operates along the way. So next time when I have a choice, I can pick a mechanic or not. :thumbsup:

Back to the "list", for my sender units (I know I need two), do I have an option to buy rebuild kits so I don't have to open up all those? Splitting the wires anyone? :)

Thank you.
 
I'm not advocating paying anyone to do anything on my list. If I had a trailer for my boat I would have done everything myself. I did it once with a 20' cuddy cabin I had.

Trim senders and limits can not be rebuilt. Just buy two new Sierra kits.

The only choices you need to make now are:

1) Do you want to remove the drive and install them "correctly", or do you want to splice outside the boat?

2) If you do remove the drive, are you going to change the bellows?

At a minimum I would buy two impeller kits and change those as well. They cost about the same as the trim sender kits and are fairly easy to change.

I would also change the drive oil. You need new gaskets for the upper and lower drain plugs, an oil pump, and some oil. That's it. This one is simple.
 
Agree with the above. When I had my sender/limit switches changed I had the gaskets, impellers (Alpha's) and drive oil changed at the same time since the drives were going to be off anyway
 
If you are removing the drive you should grease the u joints and gimbal bearing while its off. All you need is a grease gun and the right grease.

You will need a new gasket and water jacket o ring as well. They come in a kit for about $10 at West Marine.

Gear lube, impeller, greasing of the u joints and gimbal are all annual service items anyway.
 
When we bought our boat a couple years ago the trim senders didn't work either I bought new ones that are still in the box I'll replace them next year when the new bellows and gimbal bearing are put in. After you have used your boat for a while the gauges really don't matter on how to trim your boat you'll get a feel for it and know how your boat is reacting even if mine were working I wouldn't be looking at them. The decision is yours but I wouldn't worry to much about them right now if it were me.
 
Bob & Sue said:
When we bought our boat a couple years ago the trim senders didn't work either I bought new ones that are still in the box I'll replace them next year when the new bellows and gimbal bearing are put in. After you have used your boat for a while the gauges really don't matter on how to trim your boat you'll get a feel for it and know how your boat is reacting even if mine were working I wouldn't be looking at them. The decision is yours but I wouldn't worry to much about them right now if it were me.
Click to expand...
I'm with Bob or Sue (whoever posted). I have two Sea Rays. Trim limit switch doesn't work on one. I bypassed it. Trim position sender doesn't work on the other. I could care less. I hardly ever trim when under power and when I do its all by feel anyway. Based on your financial summary, I'd spend my time and money on other more important things right now.
 
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