Transom very soft

Crave1957

New Member
Oct 30, 2011
231
Portland, or
Boat Info
1984 Sea Ray Sundancer 270
Engines
Volvo Penta 5.7l, Merc Cruiser top half w Alpha 1 Outdrives
Hello all,

Well, to top off losing a motor this fall I have discovered a soft transom in the boat (I had suspected). Not sure quite how to handle this one. We plan to have the boat for a long time. So, we want to have it fixed. It appears the softness extends side to side and as high as the bar that controls the steering. The bilge has had unwanted water leakage since we purchased it. It took awhile but eventually, they attributed it to steering linkage leaking which could not be fixed properly without pulling the starboard engine. The motor is out so I decided to have it all surveyed before reinstall. Blocks the engine mounts to are in good as well as the sides/chines.

So, the question becomes one of cost and processes. Wanting not to lose this season and contain the cost is the biggest concern. Could I have it towed and do the work with limited experience and facilities (I am handy, I have done some fiberglass work)? What should a reasonable price be to have the shop do the work? It seems there are several ways proceed from inside or from outside? Pull port engine or do it from outside and leave engine in place? Redo with foam? How long does it take?

Most likely I could boat this summer and have the work done next year. But what are my risks?

Any thoughts are appreciated in advance

Thanks Mike
 


moparlvr beat me to the thread share.
I went through the same thoughts before tackling this transom rebuild.
The time it takes to pull everything is minimal compared to how much easier the work is to now do.
As with most cases of rot, ours went further than I initially thought and with the empty engine room that was not a big deal - just keep digging.
It's a big project that cost wise should be done completely, you don't want to have to do other areas in a year or two.
 
Last edited:
moparlvr beat me to the thread share.
I went through the same thoughts before tackling this transom rebuild.
The time it takes to pull everything is minimal compared to how much easier the work is to now do.
As with most cases of rot, ours went further than I initially thought and with the empty engine room that was not a big deal - just keep digging.
It's a big project that cost wise should be done completely, you don't want to have to do other areas in a year or two.
:thumbsup:
 
If you love the boat and plan to keep it "forever" then doing a thorough and proper transom job will be well worth the time and effort. A solid boat that you know is done right is a rewarding thing. When and if the time comes for our boat to be structurally rebuilt, KC-Sundancer's thread is a great step by step tutorial on doing it right.
 
Yes it is great! I am just not sure I have all the resources to complete it myself. Logistics being the biggest one missing
 
You can change the name on your boat WTD "what to do",sorry just kidding.
 
You can change the name on your boat WTD "what to do",sorry just kidding.

Just needs a "?" :grin:

I never looked into it but I bet having the work done by someone else would be very expensive.
Another tip: There is not much for wiring but if you do pull everything take a moment to label wires with masking tape or something. Makes putting things back much easier.
 
Oh yes thanks. I would be on that for sure! Transducer, trim tabs and housing and some others I will find. Hopefully the wetness is contained as it is reading to the below the steering tie bar. But while we are there I plan to work on a much better system for securing all wiring across the stern of the boat. so, far I have not decided the course of action. Have some estimates low to high. Considering doing the peel and removal myself and then hiring the install and fiberglassing. Just the logistics are tough with engine r & r and storage we shall see
 
Oh I love the "what to do" name hilarious if any of this is funny!
 
But while we are there I plan to work on a much better system for securing all wiring across the stern of the boat.

That sloppy wiring was driving me crazy before doing the work.
I ended up using plastic, cpvc conduit straps with stainless screws to securely hold everything in place.
In the picture below you can see one in the upper left corner:

TR_REP_16.jpg
 
hey Kc I have been thinking about this……..what did you screw into? I never want to create another hole in my fiberglass if possible! I have been thinking of gluing sealed wood all around to the fiberglass to screw into. any comments appreciated …..although I have a long ways to go to arrive at that phase

Thx Mike
 
hey Kc I have been thinking about this……..what did you screw into? I never want to create another hole in my fiberglass if possible! I have been thinking of gluing sealed wood all around to the fiberglass to screw into. any comments appreciated …..although I have a long ways to go to arrive at that phase

Thx Mike

You could glue the sealed blocks in for screws.
I had the same thoughts but ended up just screwing into the transom, removed the screws and re-installed with some 3m 4200.
That was just for wiring and such. In the post I show the fiberglass tubing liners I used wherever I could or sealed with epoxy for through bolts.
I figured it's all an improvement over the factory work that made it over 20 years.
 
We had a 28 footer with upper and lower helm 10.5 foot beam. The previous owner replaced the transem and the stringers in the engine room in 1995 the cost was 15,000. In 2003 I replaced the deck at the bow it was 12,000. Most of the cost is labour. If you get it done by others it probsbly will be more than the boat is worth.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,185
Messages
1,428,146
Members
61,094
Latest member
Linword
Back
Top