Trailering a 260DA?

Properly Equipped a 1/2 ton with sufficient rated capacity is capable of towing the 260. This means weight distributing hitch, Factory HD tow package that likely includes a larger radiator, transmission & oil coolers, and a higher rear end gear.

The down side to this is if you are towing the max rated weight, you have likely maxed your GVWR and technically shouldn't be putting any weight in the truck aside from the driver. This makes it hard to get your crew & gear to the lake.

Over short distances this would likely not be an issue, but since the intention of the OP is to take road trips (~250 miles) In this situation a larger tow vehicle is called for. The vehicle will last longer, and the ride will be more comfortable. As for 4X4, it isn't likely necessary the vast majority of the time, but when you need it, you'll be glad you have it. In addition, in most areas the 4X4 is a more desirable package when it comes to resale (ask me how I know).

To qualify my answers, I was in a similar situation when I bought my 260 in June. My Expedition is capable of moving the boat the 5 miles from the storage to the launch, but its not a comfortable ride as the boat is nearly 2X the weight of the truck.

I've been actively searching for a new tow vehicle since I bought the 260, as we would like be able to tow it to Lake Powell, and possibly CA for a Catalina trip. Considering the mountain driving and distance involved, I wouldn't think of making either trip with the Expedition.

The good news is (for me) I found an 05 Excursion on Saturday that is equipped the way I wanted it (6.0L powerstroke 4X4 eddie bauer) with low miles (40K). Catalina Island, here we come!
 
I sold my '05 1/2 Ton Suburban right after I sold my 230OV. That's what I used to tow that. I did my research and bought an '04 Chev Silverado with 6.0L gas 2500HD. I removed the Class III factory "HD" Hitch and installed a Class V hitch to accomodate the weight. My Boat and trailer weight 8440 on the hitch of the truck. The Truck weighs 6400 on the scale with the boat attached. I highly recommend that you upgrade your truck if you have any distance between towing. I don't believe the 1/2 ton Burb is enough. I have a triple axle King trailer with hyraulic surge brakes. It works great. I dunk it in saltwater 90% of the time and it's performed well. With this set up I don't have a need for a weight distribution hitch.

The Tundra has a Class III hitch so if you are using it to tow 10000 lbs you're well over the 6000 Class III rating. Most stock hitches are Class III.
 
Pete,

We don't disagree. I have towed extensively with Equal-i-zer's hitch both with and without surge brakes. I find it does work well with surge brakes. My comment was related to the fact that most actuator manufacturers prohibit it. So, by the book, it contradicts requirements.

Todd, it sounds like your rig is well set up. The class V is a good margin of safety. Again, by the books, you are exceeding your tow rating. Even though those "in the know" realize the rating in the case of your truck was limited by the hitch, you won't find that fact anywhere in writing from GM. Nevertheless, I am confident your set up performs very well and is safe.

1st SeaRay, I know firsthand that Excursions make a very, very fine tow vehicle. The very stout frame (strengthened by a full body), axles, brakes, long wheel base, and inherent weight (8,000lbs empty) work quite well to control towed loads. But... be careful about that 6.0. They provide great power, but have been problematic as far as reliability. I would recommend keeping it bone stock. Also, if it has factory shocks, change them to Bilstein or Rancho 9000's and you'll be impressed with the improvement.
 
I agree with others: the factory tow rating is the tow rating. How can anyone second guess it?

It is kind of like this: if you can afford a boat like we are talking about, and you can't afford the right tow vehicle, then this is not the lifestyle for you.

Boating is expensive.


That is exactly what I was asking about. Is the factory rating based on pulling a dead weight with nothing else to help (weight distributing hitch, better brakes, etc.)? Or is that the towing capacity with OPTIMUM conditions and/or added accessories (see previous)?

Also, with the kind of boat we are talking about, I am getting to the point where far fewer people will actually even consider towing this boat. Most will just splash it and only have it pulled when necessary for service.

And yes, I do know what BOAT stands for.
 
Ouch! :smt021No need for the flames!

The 260 is not a 10,000+-lbs boat. I believe that the 260 is spec'd at about 6,800 lbs. However, wet and fully loaded, and with a trailer, it will approach 10k pounds.


Obviously, everyone's experiences are different and unique, but, I certainly don't think it is a "dumb question"


After seeing this food fight on the forum, we have probably only confused you more on this seemingly simple question.


No offense taken. I just want information to make the best decision. I didn't think it was a dumb question. Look at all of the differing opinions on "rated capacity".

Also, the newer (2008) 260s are rated at 7900 lbs dry. Either way, it will still likely be 10k+ wet and with trailer.

Thanks for the information... and please keep it coming. I am not confused yet. I am learning what I need to know. Thanks again!
 
Tow ratings are not always scientific or tied to safety. Rear axle ratios can have a dramatic effect on tow ratings, yet don't have a tangible impact on safety.

Thanks. This is exactly the kind of info I need... whether or not the ratings are based more on the recommended limitations of various aspects of the hauler (meaning: what would a company's liability be to cover through a waranty if it breaks) or if it is truly a matter of safety. (Some ratings of items are grossly underrated so that companies ensure those items do not operate near failure points.)
 
Properly Equipped a 1/2 ton with sufficient rated capacity is capable of towing the 260. This means weight distributing hitch, Factory HD tow package that likely includes a larger radiator, transmission & oil coolers, and a higher rear end gear.

Over short distances this would likely not be an issue, but since the intention of the OP is to take road trips (~250 miles) In this situation a larger tow vehicle is called for. The vehicle will last longer, and the ride will be more comfortable.

I've been actively searching for a new tow vehicle


Thanks. I understand there would need to be some upgrades done for safety first and reliability of the hauler second. Those upgrades would obviously be less than a new hauler; hence the original reason for the post.

To clarify... If we do upgrade at this time with the current hauler, I put a conservative limit on the range (~250 miles). We would NOT be towing this boat frequently. If we did tow it at all, it would be POSSIBLY 2 or 3 times a year. (We went to the Aquapalooza signature event (towing our 210 Select) and would make that trip if it weren't too far each year.) Other than that, we MIGHT tow it once or twice a year to another lake around here. Again, the towing issue would be an infrequent occurrence, although it is probable to happen occasionally.

Finally, if we did want to tow it more, the hauler upgrade would definitely come into play. I just wanted to know up front if the current vehicle could SAFELY suffice for the next year or two. (Obviously, that is the question and a conflicting matter of opinion.)

Thanks all.. please keep responding. :smt038
 
My Boat and trailer weight 8440 on the hitch of the truck. The Truck weighs 6400 on the scale with the boat attached.

Todd... Have you done any weight-cutting mods to your 260DA? If you didn't mind me asking, how is yours optioned (Gen, Heat & A/C, etc.)? According to the website, yours was rated 6,200 lbs dry. Of course, all of the pre-2005 260 Sundancers were rated there and those are lighter compared to newer models (by nearly 2,000 lbs). I would have thought you would have been heavier than 8440 with trailer and all. Maybe I am just assuming the worst and over-estimating what I should.

I suppose, if I can find an older model (pre-2005), I may be able to avoid this whole issue (of course, depending on outfitting. :huh:
 
Pete,
Again, by the books, you are exceeding your tow rating. Even though those "in the know" realize the rating in the case of your truck was limited by the hitch, you won't find that fact anywhere in writing from GM. Nevertheless, I am confident your set up performs very well and is safe.


Please... This is the kind of stuff I don't know. Does anyone know about this for my 'Burb?!?
 
Todd... Have you done any weight-cutting mods to your 260DA? If you didn't mind me asking, how is yours optioned (Gen, Heat & A/C, etc.)? According to the website, yours was rated 6,200 lbs dry. Of course, all of the pre-2005 260 Sundancers were rated there and those are lighter compared to newer models (by nearly 2,000 lbs). I would have thought you would have been heavier than 8440 with trailer and all. Maybe I am just assuming the worst and over-estimating what I should.

I suppose, if I can find an older model (pre-2005), I may be able to avoid this whole issue (of course, depending on outfitting. :huh:
Looking at the fair amount of underpowered boat planeing issue threads on CSR on the 26 DA with the smaller 5.7 engine. Might be worth looking into one of the earlier lighter boat wgt years. They seem to have more consistent and better performance numbers with the little engine.
 
My 260 DA loves to be trailered and pulled my my dodge with a cummins. A wise old man that lives next door always says.... young one, when towing make sure you are 80% of max to keep things safe. It is always to have extra towing ability and use 1/2 and have it when you need it. I never have to worry about overheating, stopping ability and if I can make the hill without a run at it.

th_P1010194.jpg


We just got back from dropping the boat at the marina, I had to apply some special tlc (new wax) and touch up on the B-3.
 
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A wise old man that lives next door always says.... young one, when towing make sure you are 80% of max to keep things safe. ..

:thumbsup: Yep, that is what I was talking about when I asked the dumb question earlier and somebody thought I was flaming them:huh:
 
Common since is in short supply now days.
Of course you can do it. I saw it on a TV comercial, Besides, The salesmen told me I could :smt021
When I was on the TDR. Theres guys that were using the Mid/Late 90's Dodge Cummins PU's for pulling 40K trailers up in WY :wow: They did have a slight problem shearing off the mainshaft on the Cast iron NV 4500 5 sp. Everything else held up good.
 
That statement from the wise old man also applies to trailers. Too many boats are sold with trailers that are at 100% capacity, then the new boater fills the boat with all the weekend stuff and now they are at 110%. Those are the poor folks on the side of the road on a 100% day with 2 blown tires and 1 spare.

We all have seen it
 
Common since is in short supply now days.
Of course you can do it. I saw it on a TV comercial, Besides, The salesmen told me I could :smt021

This thread started with a simple question. Again, towing this load with the proper 1/2 ton is certainly NOT STUPID, unsafe, illegal, immoral, or improper.

I towed a very similiar set up with Nissan Titan for two seasons, and towed it about different 30 times, putting about 5,000 towing miles on my Titan. It never overheated, never blew a tire, and always ran perfectly (I never had any mechanical issues with the truck).

So, when I towed this boat with a Titan- was I good or just lucky???:huh:

Again, making sure that your vehicle and trailer is set up properly and has the proper load on the tongue is just as important as the vehicle that is towing it.

You don't need to buy a diesel to tow a 260. The 1/2 tons today are capable of towing more than 1/2 tons from 10 years ago - and....not all 1/2 tons are the same. You must decide if your vehicle can tow it properly and safely.
 
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