Zorba
Active Member
I put about 45 or so hours on the boat this year and I am getting ready to winterize her soon. My question is should i change the engine oil and drive oil now or should i wait until spring. Will it hurt to wait until spring?
To change or not to Change
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
BadaBingII
New Member
My opinion on this is do it now. If there are corrosives, gas or water that have built up in the oil, I wouldn't want to let that sit in my engine or transmission over the winter.
My vote is do it now over waiting till spring.
Zorba
Active Member
Okay next question (My search function is acting goofy so i have tried to search with no success) is how much oil does a 2005 350 MAG take and what is the drive oil capacity
PMvdb395DA
New Member
- Oct 12, 2006
- 1,165
- Boat Info
- 360DA '03 6,5 kw kohler generator, AC, etc.
- Engines
- Yanmar 315Hp diesels
It's better to change your oil before you put her in a wintersleep.
Used oil is full of chemicals that can damage your engine if left alone for several months.
After only a few hours of use, oil starts to build up contaminates, such as dirt, unburned fuel, water and acids. If you leave that brew in your engine all winter, it will start to corrode the very parts that the oil is supposed to be protecting.
Diesel engines are even worse, because excess sulphur in the fuel can find its way into the engine oil where it combines with water vapor to become sulphuric acid, and you know what that's going to do to your cylinder walls, pistons and bearings.
Oil also contains additives such as rust inhibitors and detergents that grow weaker with use, so start the winter with full protection from fresh oil.
Peter
Used oil is full of chemicals that can damage your engine if left alone for several months.
After only a few hours of use, oil starts to build up contaminates, such as dirt, unburned fuel, water and acids. If you leave that brew in your engine all winter, it will start to corrode the very parts that the oil is supposed to be protecting.
Diesel engines are even worse, because excess sulphur in the fuel can find its way into the engine oil where it combines with water vapor to become sulphuric acid, and you know what that's going to do to your cylinder walls, pistons and bearings.
Oil also contains additives such as rust inhibitors and detergents that grow weaker with use, so start the winter with full protection from fresh oil.
Peter
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Here's Merc's Service guide for your engine
Do‑It‑Yourself Maintenance Suggestions
It states 4.5 Qts
I agree do it now.
I just did mine; I used 6 quarts of Mercury Synthetic Blend oil. (each)
P.S. Recommend doing it now.
Last edited:
Zorba
Active Member
Thanks guys for all of the reccomendations. For those of you who can remove your boat from the water to change oil, do you use an oil boy type pump or do you use the easy drain tube. Also with either method, warm engine or cold?
Zorba
Active Member
thats what i figured. Just making sure
capecodcruiser
Active Member
For the sake of conversation, why not do it cold. That way all of the old/used oil is sitting in the pan with and you will get the majority of the old contaminated oil out. Yes it may take a little longer to drain due to it being a little thicker due to temp. I was always taught, check it cold, change it warm. But I think my theory has some merit.
If you think about it, every dealer that changes oil does it "cold" because they have no time to warm up the engine.
douglee25
Well-Known Member
The oil extractor tube is so small and the oil is so thick that it barely, and I mean barely flows at all. I accidentally did that once forgetting that I didn't warm up the engine and when I came back maybe a 1/2 quart transferred in 15 mins.
Doug
Doug